What impacts on tuning stability again??

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Drew_TNBDDrew_TNBD Frets: 22445
I know this is one of those questions that always pops up, and I've probably asked it before but only thing I can think of is to replace the bridge and tuners.

Got this Rally Les Paul. Want to do it up a bit so I can just leave it at the practice room. So strap + straplocks... and solve the tuning stability.

Should I replace the whole bridge, or just the saddles? What about the nut?
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 71963
    The nut, the nut and the nut.

    And how you string and tune it, but I assume you're reasonably good at that.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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  • The nut is major.  Having it cut right is extremely important.  If it's already well cut but still sticking get some grease of some sort (I think I have car lube) and apply to the nut slots with a toothpick - like a poor man's nut sauce.
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  • SporkySporky Frets: 27590
    ICBM said:

    And how you string and tune it, but I assume you're reasonably good at that.
    Also - while I'm not disputing your method (I just can't follow it!), the nut is much more important still than how you string the guitar.

    Well, within reason.
    "[Sporky] brings a certain vibe and dignity to the forum."
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  • Drew_TNBDDrew_TNBD Frets: 22445
    Okay cool. Might need a new nut then!
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  • Flink_PoydFlink_Poyd Frets: 2490
    If it's the G and D strings on an LP it can be the angle the strings break from the nut. 
    Nobody is guaranteed tomorrow.....


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  • Drew_TNBDDrew_TNBD Frets: 22445
    It's the G and B mainly - or in my case the F and A string, since I'm in drop-c.
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  • impmannimpmann Frets: 12649
    Nut.

    Sometimes the nut.

    Oh and don't forget the nut.

    EDIT: Shit... ICBM did the same gag before me.
    Never Ever Bloody Anything Ever.

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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 24579
    The nut is major.  Having it cut right is extremely important.  If it's already well cut but still sticking get some grease of some sort (I think I have car lube) and apply to the nut slots with a toothpick - like a poor man's nut sauce.
    Get some lead out yer pencil on it.

    No, seriously. Not wet - dry lube. A nice bit of graphite scratched off the tip of your pencil with a stanley blade into the slot.
    Works a treat.
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  • olafgartenolafgarten Frets: 1648
    Also get locking tuners, even cheap ones stop you from the hassle of having to string it properly. 
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  • Drew_TNBDDrew_TNBD Frets: 22445
    The nut is major.  Having it cut right is extremely important.  If it's already well cut but still sticking get some grease of some sort (I think I have car lube) and apply to the nut slots with a toothpick - like a poor man's nut sauce.
    Get some lead out yer pencil on it.

    No, seriously. Not wet - dry lube. A nice bit of graphite scratched off the tip of your pencil with a stanley blade into the slot.
    Works a treat.
    Will give it a go!
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  • Drew_TNBD said:
    The nut is major.  Having it cut right is extremely important.  If it's already well cut but still sticking get some grease of some sort (I think I have car lube) and apply to the nut slots with a toothpick - like a poor man's nut sauce.
    Get some lead out yer pencil on it.

    No, seriously. Not wet - dry lube. A nice bit of graphite scratched off the tip of your pencil with a stanley blade into the slot.
    Works a treat.
    Will give it a go!
    You can also scratch some pencil graphite into some vaseline if you do want wet lube.

    My favourite is the car lube though - the tin I bought will probably last my whole life and it was a massive life saver when tracking recently.  I think Les Pauls are a bit more prone to tuning issues at the nut because of the angle on the G and D strings, a little bit of lube helps a lot there.
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  • Jack_Jack_ Frets: 3175
    If it's a Gibson style headstock you need to make sure you don't look at it.
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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 24579
    Jack_ said:
    If it's a Gibson style headstock you need to make sure you don't look at it.

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  • CarpeDiemCarpeDiem Frets: 275
    Another option for lubricating the nut is Big Bends Nut Sauce. I've used it successfully for years.
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  • dindudedindude Frets: 8534
    You need to change the neck to maple, bolt it on instead of gluing it, and make it into a six-in-line headstock. Simples really.
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  • octatonicoctatonic Frets: 33725
    ICBM said:
    The nut, the nut and the nut.

    And how you string and tune it, but I assume you're reasonably good at that.
    This.
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  • RabsRabs Frets: 2602
    tFB Trader

    You should also check how straight the neck is and if the truss rod needs adjustment.

    But yes.. On a LP the nut is all important...  The strings should (ideally) sit in the nut so like half the string is in the slot and half is out.. Too deep and you will get binding issues, too shallow and the strings will pop out.. And the slot should roll off the back of the nut towards the tuners....

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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 71963
    Actually the depth of the groove doesn't matter, as long as it's deep enough to stop the string popping out. The sides of the groove can be as much taller as you like and as long as the groove is cut correctly, the string will still only contact the nut by the same amount and won't cause binding. It could be literally an inch tall and it would make no difference - although it would be awkward to play in the low positions :).

    I really don't know why it's become 'received wisdom' that the nut should only be halfway up the strings or it causes binding - it's simply not true. Look at a PRS - the nut is usually at least a mm taller than the strings and they stay in tune very well.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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  • RabsRabs Frets: 2602
    tFB Trader
    ICBM said:
    Actually the depth of the groove doesn't matter, as long as it's deep enough to stop the string popping out. The sides of the groove can be as much taller as you like and as long as the groove is cut correctly, the string will still only contact the nut by the same amount and won't cause binding. It could be literally an inch tall and it would make no difference - although it would be awkward to play in the low positions :).

    I really don't know why it's become 'received wisdom' that the nut should only be halfway up the strings or it causes binding - it's simply not true. Look at a PRS - the nut is usually at least a mm taller than the strings and they stay in tune very well.

    Yes.. But PRS don't have the crazy headstock angle and the string path from nut to tuner is straight as the headstock is the snakehead type.. That's why it doesn't matter on a lot of guitars but really does make a difference on a Gibson.
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  • Paul_CPaul_C Frets: 7672
    You need some depth to the nut slots on something like an Explorer or the strings won't stay put.
    "I'll probably be in the bins at Newport Pagnell services."  fretmeister
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