Best place to order replacement pots and pickup selector?

The pickup selector in my Epiphone Riviera has started to go, so I'm thinking that since some of the Epiphone range has a reputation for having shoddy electronics, it's better to bite the bullet and replace the whole lot while I can. The previous owner fitted it with Seymour Duncan P90s but I'm assuming that he hasn't changed any of the wiring.

I realised that I know absolutely nothing about guitar electronics or what makes some better suited to one guitar compared to another. What sort of pots should I be looking at using, and where would people recommend getting them from? (in addition to a new pickup selector)

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Comments

  • TimberGTimberG Frets: 50
    Northwest guitars do both alpha and CTS pots, my preference is CTS. they also do the short and long series 3 way Gibson style switches as well. 
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 71960
    edited May 2017
    You'll have fun if you've never done a guitar before and your first one is a Riviera.



    Allparts sell the parts, although there are some complications - the switch to get is a Switchcraft (don't both with anything else) which will be fine, but the pots you should get are CTS, which have a US-size (3/8") bushing as opposed to the far-east size (8mm) bushing of the stock pots, so you will need to ream out the holes slightly. It's best to use a Switchcraft jack too (long thread) which will also probably need reaming very slightly.

    You're also probably best replacing the wiring with cloth-insulated, braided-shielded cable - it's the vintage-correct type (not that it matters) but more importantly enables you to build a proper wiring loom which makes it easier to get everything back in, and is immune from heat damage when soldering, unlike the plastic stuff.

    Make the wiring loom by taking an impression of the control area of the guitar on a piece of thin cardboard, cut holes for the pots and jack, and assemble it all on the cardboard off the guitar. You also may need some insulating sleeving to avoid accidental contacts between the cable and the pot/switch terminals.

    Good luck! If that sounds too daunting, it's not unwise or a cop-out to take it to someone who has done them before...

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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  • guitarcookie1guitarcookie1 Frets: 461
    ICBM said:
    You'll have fun if you've never done a guitar before and your first one is a Riviera.



    Allparts sell the parts, although there are some complications - the switch to get is a Switchcraft (don't both with anything else) which will be fine, but the pots you should get are CTS, which have a US-size (3/8") bushing as opposed to the far-east size (8mm) bushing of the stock pots, so you will need to ream out the holes slightly. It's best to use a Switchcraft jack too (long thread) which will also probably need reaming very slightly.

    You're also probably best replacing the wiring with cloth-insulated, braided-shielded cable - it's the vintage-correct type (not that it matters) but more importantly enables you to build a proper wiring loom which makes it easier to get everything back in, and is immune from heat damage when soldering, unlike the plastic stuff.

    Make the wiring loom by taking an impression of the control area of the guitar on a piece of thin cardboard, cut holes for the pots and jack, and assemble it all on the cardboard off the guitar. You also may need some insulating sleeving to avoid accidental contacts between the cable and the pot/switch terminals.

    Good luck! If that sounds too daunting, it's not unwise or a cop-out to take it to someone who has done them before...

    And... Don't forget to tie some cotton around the shafts of the old controls before you take them out of the guitar. You can then transfer these threads to the new parts and it will help you relocate the new bits inside the guitar.

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  • normula1normula1 Frets: 639
    You can now get CTS pots with non-US knob friendly splines.
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  • FunkfingersFunkfingers Frets: 14323
    ICBM said:
    You'll have fun if you've never done a guitar before and your first one is a Riviera. 
    Agreed.

    On the other hand, doesn't it seem odd that a professional repairer would go to the trouble of fishing the wiring harness out of the F hole in order to perform the soldering work on the pickups and NOT take that opportunity to upgrade the pots? 


    Be seeing you.
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 71960
    Funkfingers said:

    On the other hand, doesn't it seem odd that a professional repairer would go to the trouble of fishing the wiring harness out of the F hole in order to perform the soldering work on the pickups and NOT take that opportunity to upgrade the pots?
    Not really. If you're not asked to and especially if you're not being paid to, why would you?

    It depends if it was done the 'proper' way or in the pickup cavities too...

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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  • jpttaylorjpttaylor Frets: 458
    ICBM said:
    You'll have fun if you've never done a guitar before and your first one is a Riviera.



    Allparts sell the parts, although there are some complications - the switch to get is a Switchcraft (don't both with anything else) which will be fine, but the pots you should get are CTS, which have a US-size (3/8") bushing as opposed to the far-east size (8mm) bushing of the stock pots, so you will need to ream out the holes slightly. It's best to use a Switchcraft jack too (long thread) which will also probably need reaming very slightly.

    You're also probably best replacing the wiring with cloth-insulated, braided-shielded cable - it's the vintage-correct type (not that it matters) but more importantly enables you to build a proper wiring loom which makes it easier to get everything back in, and is immune from heat damage when soldering, unlike the plastic stuff.

    Make the wiring loom by taking an impression of the control area of the guitar on a piece of thin cardboard, cut holes for the pots and jack, and assemble it all on the cardboard off the guitar. You also may need some insulating sleeving to avoid accidental contacts between the cable and the pot/switch terminals.

    Good luck! If that sounds too daunting, it's not unwise or a cop-out to take it to someone who has done them before...

    I think, given this would be the first time I've properly messed about with a guitar (beyond adjusting the action) I'm going to take it to a guy near me. It does feel slightly like a cop-out but I'd rather pay a bit extra to have it done properly than cheap out and have to pay for it to be fixed anyway.

    Would it make a difference whether to use 250k or 500k pots with P90s? I've absolutely no knowledge of either what's already in the guitar or which is more suitable.
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  • AlegreeAlegree Frets: 665
    tFB Trader
    Big difference. 250k trims off more highs. Some people prefer that.
    Alegree pickups & guitar supplies - www.alegree.co.uk
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 71960
    500k is the classic value for P90s, even though they're single coils - their resistance and inductance is closer to a humbucker than a Fender-type single coil.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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  • UnclePsychosisUnclePsychosis Frets: 12881
    Whilst we're on the topic--- @ICBM I want to replace the electronics in my Squier Bullet Mustang. 

    Any idea what (physical) size pots/switch/jack I need? 
     
    Also, is it really £25 for a switchcraft switch? Ouch. 
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  • wackojackowackojacko Frets: 59
    Whilst we're on the topic--- @ICBM I want to replace the electronics in my Squier Bullet Mustang. 

    Any idea what (physical) size pots/switch/jack I need? 
     
    Also, is it really £25 for a switchcraft switch? Ouch. 
    Nahhhhh £25 is extortionate. Is that including delivery? Generally around the £18-20 mark. 
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  • wackojackowackojacko Frets: 59
    Whilst we're on the topic--- @ICBM I want to replace the electronics in my Squier Bullet Mustang. 

    Any idea what (physical) size pots/switch/jack I need? 
     
    Also, is it really £25 for a switchcraft switch? Ouch. 
    Nahhhhh £25 is extortionate. Is that including delivery? Generally around the £18-20 mark. 
    Which I appreciate is still extortionate but that's what everyone sells them at. Most will add delivery too though so if that's all you are buying you are looking at £23ish 
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  • AlegreeAlegree Frets: 665
    tFB Trader
    Best prices are found in harnesses. Such as my own ;)
    Alegree pickups & guitar supplies - www.alegree.co.uk
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  • wackojackowackojacko Frets: 59
    There are companies that do free shipping on anything, be it one capacitor or a whole load of things.

    Six String Supplies (good for electronics, wiring kits, harnesses etc...) 
    North West Guitar Parts (i think do free shipping) and do nearly everything.

    Alegree said:
    Best prices are found in harnesses. Such as my own ;)
    True - value is in prewired kits - though it seems the OP is only looking at replacing the switch.

    The above companies do prewired kits too. Great value. 
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  • streethawkstreethawk Frets: 1631
    edited May 2017
    Worth noting that Switchcraft toggle switches don't come with the deep nut you need for a Les Paul.

    I do them prewired with gavitt braided wire, the deep nut, jack and choice of tip included. 
    http://www.amberguitar.com/home/104-prewired-switchcraft-long-toggle-switch.html

    Keep forgetting to add the switches on their own, because I'm lazy. Soon though!




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