Acrylic tortoiseshell - just say no !!!!!!

Jalapeno

F*cking stuff is soooooo brittle - really difficult to cut/drill.

Manage to get 2mm pickguard nearly right 2nd go, then when I tried to drill it ..... SHATTER !!!!!!!

On the advice of Rothko & Frost trying again with Acetate, much more forgiving apparently.

Expensive lessons at £24.99 + P&P a go !

octatonic

What was your precise technique for drilling?

Did you tape it off?
Or use a wooden block to drill through?

Jalapeno

I supported it on my workmate and had the spot over a hole (to be drilled through) - still had backing on both sides.
Drill barely engaged before it shattered ....

octatonic

Ok, next time try using a guide block.
I use offcuts of ply wood or mdf.

This is where a pillar drill comes into its own though- because you can clamp everything down.

Were you using a HSS or brad point bit?

Jalapeno

HSS wood

My jig-saw was creating small chips, but when the supporting part got thin (ie. when I got close to an edge) - that wanted to shatter too and did - but I just got lucky with the outline I think. Conversely I had to make an indent for the floating pickup - that was a doddle with the Dremmel and a grinding stone - perfect !

2mm Acetate/Cellulose is bendier so should be more tolerant.

octatonic

Ah ok- did you drill a pilot hole first?

octatonic

Reason I ask is it is useful to drill a pilot hole for acrylic if using HSS bits.
Helps if you works slowly with acrylic too- once a bit grabs that is it.
You can get special plexiglass drill bits which eliminate the need for a pilot hole.

I've always used brad point bits and a guide block and never had a problem.

Jalapeno

Ta. See how I get on with an acetate one.

I've got a spare laminate sheet (4 ply) tortoise, then white/black/white - not sure what it is made of tbh - might experiment a bit more over the weekend with metal/wood jig-saw blades, and drill bits & blocks

octatonic

Jalapeno said:

Ta. See how I get on with an acetate one.

I've got a spare laminate sheet (4 ply) tortoise, then white/black/white - not sure what it is made of tbh - might experiment a bit more over the weekend with metal/wood jig-saw blades, and drill bits & blocks

Practice on the ruined piece first.

Nomad

In general, for plastics, use very sharp cutters - good quality and as good as brand new, preferably reserved for plastics (or at least soft materials - don't use drill bits that are also used on metals). Relatively slow rotation speed and feed rate. Let the sharpness do the work - the rotation speed and feed rate should be such that thin slivers of the stuff is removed with no effort.

And, as mentioned, put a sacrificial support block/sheet underneath it.

Alegree

Blimey where are you buying them from at that price? I sell them at nearly half that price.

Jalapeno

Rothko & Frost (plus P&P)

GSPBASSES

When drilling any sort of plastic particularly ones that are exceedingly hard I always run the drill backwards might sound a bit odd but it works doesn't crack the plastic or shatter acrylics. I also run the drill backwards when drilling new paintwork, 2K or polyester, it never  chips or cracks.