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Do not use circular motions - sand in a linear way. Once you've gone to the higher grit take some swirl remover cutting compound and a buffer.
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As you go up through the grades you make the scratches finer and finer until they're smaller than the wavelength of light (or something along those lines) at which point you can't see them. Polishing then makes the surface shiny and reflective.
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Are you wanting to go back to full shiney? Or "scuffed but less obviously kitchen-scourer"?
With 2k ("poly") you ideally cut & polish the day after spraying, within 2-3 days for sure - it gets far harder after that. With old cured paint it's doable but harder. DIY - go through the grades, start 1000 grit as Paul said. I go up to 2000. Then use a 3000 grit pad but that's optional. Then machine polish. Hand polishing will almost always show marks.
I'd then go to Farecla G6 which is the coarsest and because this is old paint, then onto 3M compounds coarse & fine cut (because that's what I use but G3 and G10 works as well).
Best bet really - take it to a car sprayer. They'll run a few soft pads over it and machine polish it up. It'll cost no more than buying grades of paper & compounds, probably less, and the result will be better faster and less painful.
Just tell them you don't know if it's solid colour or clear-over-base; if it's the latter there's more chance of burnng through.
If you're wanting to even up the marks but still have that effect, I don't think that's going to be possible really. Not without ending up with a satin or matt finish.