Help needed with scourer-relic'd poly finish

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I recently bought a nice Wilko J Tele on ebay and previous owner has dulled black poly finish with a scourer-type thing I think. You can see lots of swirls in the light and it looks OK at times but not at others. I remember doing something similar on a Squier once. Is there anything I can do cheaply to try and even out the swirling patterns?
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Comments

  • paulnb57paulnb57 Frets: 3054
    1000 to 2000 grit wet n dry, followed by cutting compound to polish oit the scratches....
    Stranger from another planet welcome to our hole - Just strap on your guitar and we'll play some rock 'n' roll

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  • scarry67scarry67 Frets: 143
    Right, I'll dig out some wet n dry. What will that leave on finish that needs further compound? 
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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 24579
    scarry67 said:
    Right, I'll dig out some wet n dry. What will that leave on finish that needs further compound? 
    Compound will give you the glassy finish. Well, that and a LOT of elbow grease ;)
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  • scarry67scarry67 Frets: 143
    Is that cutting compound you can use on car bodywork? 
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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 24579
    scarry67 said:
    Is that cutting compound you can use on car bodywork? 
    Aye. Some people use a car polish type job, or there are polishes designed for guitar finishes too.. 
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  • GoldenEraGuitarsGoldenEraGuitars Frets: 8823
    tFB Trader
    You'd be best to go up to 5000-7000 wet and dry. Soak the paper for a day prior to use and put a drop or two of fairy in with the paper. 

    Do not use circular motions - sand in a linear way. Once you've gone to the higher grit take some swirl remover cutting compound and a buffer. 
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  • lamf68lamf68 Frets: 851
    Black is without doubt the hardest finish to do, there's literally nothing more difficult than polishing out scratches on it. As said above, the finest grade wet and dry you can find using white spirit and not water or you could really shit on your biscuits. 
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  • scarry67scarry67 Frets: 143
    This is beginning to sound a bit of a challenge. Will the wet & dry just replace the swirling with linear fine scratchings? In other words, will it be very different to the effect of a scourer type marking on the surface? 
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  • SporkySporky Frets: 28139
    scarry67 said:
    Will the wet & dry just replace the swirling with linear fine scratchings? 
    Yes.

    As you go up through the grades you make the scratches finer and finer until they're smaller than the wavelength of light (or something along those lines) at which point you can't see them. Polishing then makes the surface shiny and reflective.
    "[Sporky] brings a certain vibe and dignity to the forum."
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  • lamf68lamf68 Frets: 851
    scarry67 said:
    This is beginning to sound a bit of a challenge. Will the wet & dry just replace the swirling with linear fine scratchings? In other words, will it be very different to the effect of a scourer type marking on the surface? 
    You're gonna have to use cutting compounds regardless after the wet and dry process if you don't wanna see the marks, I use pumice powder and rotten stone, always have and always will, it's cheaper to buy and absolutely craps on any cutting compound, mix it with white spirit and use a buffing machine, if you haven't got access to a machine it will take an age to do, there's no quick way unfortunately
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  • CorvusCorvus Frets: 2925
    tFB Trader

    Are you wanting to go back to full shiney? Or "scuffed but less obviously kitchen-scourer"?
    With 2k ("poly") you ideally cut & polish the day after spraying, within 2-3 days for sure - it gets far harder after that. With old cured paint it's doable but harder. DIY - go through the grades, start 1000 grit as Paul said. I go up to 2000. Then use a 3000 grit pad but that's optional. Then machine polish. Hand polishing will almost always show marks.
    I'd then go to Farecla G6 which is the coarsest and because this is old paint, then onto 3M compounds coarse & fine cut (because that's what I use but G3 and G10 works as well).

    Best bet really - take it to a car sprayer. They'll run a few soft pads over it and machine polish it up. It'll cost no more than buying grades of paper & compounds, probably less, and the result will be better faster and less painful.
    Just tell them you don't know if it's solid colour or clear-over-base; if it's the latter there's more chance of burnng through.

    If you're wanting to even up the marks but still have that effect, I don't think that's going to be possible really. Not without ending up with a satin or matt finish.

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  • scarry67scarry67 Frets: 143
    Thanks all - I'm happy with a matt finish really but would prefer less obvious circular swirls. I may just leave it as is and learn to enjoy the look!
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