I'm looking at options for a new valve amp but the more I read and research, the more it seems that so many valve amps have build or design issues that affect their reliability and repairabilty. Clearly, valves are "consumables" and will require replacement, that comes with the territory, but valves have been around for a while so surely someone has perfected a way of making a reliable amp with them?
There was a thread on here recently talking about amps that were a nightmare to service and here's another similar article to illustrate the point
http://www.londonpower.com/pcb-or-hand-wire#intro I'm not too concerned about PCB vs Handwired but want something that is built solidly, with good components that aren't pushed beyond their limits, that follows solid design principles which makes any future maintenance and servicing straightforward for an amp tech.
Do any manufacturers get it right or should I just give up and go solid state? Whilst SS amps don't get the glowing praise for tone / playing feel bestowed on valve amps, they seem to be better on the reliability front, but, should they go wrong, seems like they're disposable.
Who consistently gets it right?
Comments
In terms of 'do truly good amps exist?' - to me that's about tonal/dynamic characteristics - and how they interact with your playing. As a general observation, I'm unconvinced that channel switching amps ever deliver equally great cleans and drive sounds - though for reasons of convenience I own one.
That aside...I've come across many good amps, but never one that was truly brilliantly-designed. The ones that sound great inevitably have usability issues (lack of switching/ineffective shared EQ/poorly-designed loop etc), and the ones with all the right options always sound a bit "meh".
And I caned it. It was all good.
https://speakerimpedance.co.uk/?act=two_parallel&page=calculator
am not one of those rare beasts!
Diezel, Bogner, Friedman, Fender, Orange, Mesa Boogie... depends what you want, but any of those manufacturers will have good build quality and reliable products.
I'd avoid Marshall personally, but that's based on having a perfectly fine JVMJS for nearly a year and then something futzed up with it and even after a completely fresh mainboard, I never got the tones from it that I liked again. Maybe their other products are better.
I get that pushing the valves is what creates the overdrive sounds we enjoy but some amps have a reputation for almost eating valves (Dr Z Maz for example) so there are limits and it's not necessarily the valves I'm talking about. There's another thread that's just popped up on here pointing out some of the issues with the Blues Junior - that's the sort of stuff I'm on about I wouldn't care if it was the greatest sounding amp in the world, I wouldn't want to take the risk thank you. There's so much of this sort of negativity - Marshall are criticised for quality all the time yet back in the day, they were THE rock amp.
I currently have 2 amps, a Mesa Express 5 25+ Head and an Orange Rocker 30 Head, neither of which have given me any trouble and to be fair, I haven't seen many negative reports on either. However, I fancy a smallish 15 - 30w combo to replace the pair of them if possible. I've got used to the convenience of using an AX8 and DXR10, hence a small combo would fit the bill to give me an "analogue" alternative.
I have tried a few including Morgan, Louis Electric, Bad Cat, Carr etc but none of them are exactly cheap and to be honest, I prefer the sounds of my 2 existing amps and haven't found the combination of features and sounds and reputation for reliability I'm looking for. The Carr Sportsman has come the closest so far and does seem to get positive feedback for build and reliability.
The original Fender amp circuits seem to have stood the test of time as well.
With so much choice available, I don't think it is odd at all to want to narrow down the potential play list by eliminating poorly designed unreliable dogs.
Incidently, I've had my Carr Sportsman for 5 years and it feels absolutely bomb proof. Love that I don't need to re-bias when changing valves too, makes ownership so simple.
It's actually easy to do this, and doesn't even necessarily cost that much, especially for simpler amps. But there is always a huge temptation for mass-manufacturers to reduce costs, so they try *not* to over-engineer them.
A good example of a simple, fairly over-engineered amp which is almost perfectly reliable is a Marshall JCM800 2203 or 2204. It's still a PCB amp, but no heavy or high-power-dissipation components are mounted on the board (there are a couple of higher-power resistors, but they're properly spaced away from the board, and over-spec anyway), the chassis is built like a tank, and even the transformer mountings are reinforced. They almost never fail, other than blowing valves.
Then at the opposite end of the scale you have something like the Marshall DSL/TSL100, which is a nightmare - it's over-complicated, badly designed, poorly engineered and unsurprisingly is quite well-known to blow up. Some the faults are down to bad PCB layout, with high voltages separated by small distances, so they tend to arc. Others are because the multiple PCBs are joined by push-connectors which can make a poor contact... or because really stupid design mistakes were made, like running the speaker current through a jack contact, which is a well-known potential failure point. How stuff like this gets through R&D, I don't know.
Excessive complexity and mixing high-voltage valve circuits with low-voltage control circuits can be a problem even in well-made amps. Fancy 'valve protection' circuits seem to cause more trouble than they prevent. Another reason vintage-style hand-wired amps tend to be reliable is because they avoid this sort of thing... but keep it simple, build it well and it won't break, even with a PCB.
Even some of the modern high-quality amps (eg Mesa) are too complex for their own good and use PCB jumper connectors and too much switching. I would be much more worried about things like this than whether valves - especially preamp valves - are mounted on a PCB, which seems to be a popular (but wrong) 'test' for whether an amp is well-made.
The devil is in the detail... chassis-mounted valve sockets are good - unless they're poor quality or not soldered well (eg Laney), when they're a cause of failures. PCB-mounted sockets are fine, if the track layout around them is correct and the amp is designed well enough that the heat from the valve doesn't all go straight into the board.
etc...
A bit of a ramble I know, but hopefully some of that helps .
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein