Soldering vintage-type braided wire shielding to the back of pots - any tips?

Megii

I see images of various pickup wiring looms for 335 semi-acoustics and the like, using vintage style waxed cloth single core wire that has the exposed braided screen - earth connections are neatly made by soldering the outer screen to the back of the pots as the wire passes over. Anyhow, I'm making a loom for an Ibanez semi-acoustic guitar (in readiness for some of @TheGuitarWeasel's fine pickups) and would like to use the same technique. So basically any tips for how to best do things? I have done a lot of guitar wiring/soldering in the past, but haven't used this approach before. Cheers!

Funkfingers

• Work out where the braid will pass over the pot chassis to which it will be soldered.
• Pre-tin the braid with solder. 
• If you wish, pre-tin the pot chassis with a small blob of solder.
• Bring the two together.
• Heat the solder - possibly, adding a small amount of fresh solder to maintain sufficient flux.
• Press the braid firmly against the pot chassis whilst the solder cools. I use a metal object. It avoids finger burns and acts as a heatsink.

Megii

Funkfingers said:

• Work out where the braid will pass over the pot chassis to which it will be soldered.
• Pre-tin the braid with solder. 
• If you wish, pre-tin the pot chassis with a small blob of solder.
• Bring the two together.
• Heat the solder - possibly, adding a small amount of fresh solder to maintain sufficient flux.
• Press the braid firmly against the pot chassis whilst the solder cools. I use a metal object. It avoids finger burns and acts as a heatsink.

This is much appreciated, cheers for taking the time @Funkfingers

Modulus_Amps

definitely pre-tin the back of the pot, some pots need cleaned first before the solder will stick properly.

Megii

Modulus_Amps said:

definitely pre-tin the back of the pot, some pots need cleaned first before the solder will stick properly.

Absolutely, will do, cheers! Have got some nice quality Bourns mini pots to use.

Funkfingers

I break the soldering into three steps so as to avoid overheating any of the components. Proper leaded solder helps.

Megii

Funkfingers said:

I break the soldering into three steps so as to avoid overheating any of the components. Proper leaded solder helps.

And appreciate you adding this too @Funkfingers - yes, I don't want to overheat the pots of course. As to the solder, I've often used non-leaded silver solder, but do have a reel of the leaded stuff, and I think I'll take your advice and use that for this job, makes sense.

Funkfingers

Do not be swayed by the personal preferences or habits of others. Use whatever solder you think best. 

Megii

Funkfingers said:

Do not be swayed by the personal preferences or habits of others. Use whatever solder you think best. 

Cheers - my experience is that the silver solder does need a bit higher temperature, and is maybe a little trickier to use (though not hard) - but the leaded stuff does flow just a bit easier, and I'm all for making things as easy as possible on this job!