How did your first fret level go, and what tools did you use?

guitarfishbay

I've slowly been building my skills but frets are never something I've tried.

I've got two instruments that need a fret level, but also another neck for a parts guitar on the way I'm assuming will need some attention too.

My plan would be to do the parts neck first, that way it's not such a big deal if I screw it up.

Is it at all likely I'll be able to do a good job on a main instrument after one go?  I'm assuming no.  But also wondering when else it'll make sense to try learning this skill at all.

So how did your first attempt(s) go, how many did it take for you to feel like you were doing a decent job, and what tools did you use?  Are those under tension type tools good?

Thanks

paulnb57

I straighten the neck best I can then mark each fret with a Magic marker and remove the nut, then sand the fret tops with a spirit level with wet n dry sandoaper attached along its length with double sided tape. I keep going until I can see  that the marker has been removed from each fret top.
Then I remark each fret top and use a proper fret profiling file to make them all curved top profile again, stopping when just a thin line is left on the top of each fret.
Then use one of the thin shim steel fretboard protectors and polish the frets with progressively smoother wet n dry until Im happy...works for me gut does need a bit of tool investment

Roland

guitarfishbay said:

So how did your first attempt(s) go, how many did it take for you to feel like you were doing a decent job, and what tools did you use?  

It was easier than I expected. The first attempt was on a cheap neck. I realised afterwards that the frets had not been seated correctly before I started. It was easy to tap then in and do it again. So two attempts to get a decent job.

Tools:
black felt tip to mark the top of the frets.
masking tape to cover the fret board, and keep metal dust off the wood.
long ruler to check how flat the neck is.
fine toothed file. I happened to have a good one unused. Otherwise emery paper on a beam.
proper fret file.
emery paper up to 1200 for polishing.

Do a practice on the partscaster neck before starting on your favourite, and take it steadily. The worst that can happen is that you take the frets down too far, and need a regret.

shaunyshaun1234

@guitarfishbay I've just pm'd you! 

Kalimna

My procedure for fret levelling is similar to those above. For holding the guitar, I made a rough copy of the StewMac neck-tension jig. Essentially a fluffy-carpet-covered board at one end that holds the guitar (bungee cord or long lengths of string/elastic), and the neck part is supported by adjustable-height cork-lined neck-profile blocks. A picture is much easier, and when I get home I'll find one.

Marker pen to mark the tops of the frets.

A piece of glass, approx. A5 size, 6mm thick (I think) with (again, I cant remember but I think it was) 320grit wet n dry spray glued on. I use this to take the tops of the frets off, as posted earlier, and level the board. The glass is perfectly flat, cheap and usable with any grit abrasive you desire.

Lots of masking tape to mask the fingerboard (prefer to the slotted board protectors as the fine metal dust can get underneath those, but less so on the tape. Not a problem with ebony, but a problem on maple, say).

I have one of those fret-rocker tools which I find useful, but I know not everyone does. This Is to engage in that wonderful pastime of "Chase the high spot". It has 4 edges each of different length that, between them, will span 3 frets anywhere on the neck. You place it over the 3 frets, and if you can rock it (hear a little 'click') then the middle fret is high.

When this has been done, I use a fret crowning file, one of those 3-in-1 types that work but I don't really like, to restore the fret shape. Others can weigh in here, but those curved diamond files, though expensive, get a good name.

For final polishing, I go up through the grades with micro-mesh pads. I have one of the sets of not-much-bigger-than-a-large-postage-stamp padded micro-mesh pads. Doesn't take long, they are re-usable and give a superb finish.

I haven't, but I know some folk will finish up with Autosol or similar metal polish.

Hope that helps,

Adam

DartmoorHedgehog

I've only ever done it once, but I just used a long carborundum sharpening stone ("oilstone").  Seemed to work well for me.  I did borrow a fret crowning file to finish off though.

Megii

I basically followed this video:



I used a box level bought from B&Q - you can get them with a milled flat surface that is pretty accurate. Also, I'd recommend using a black marker at each stage of the fret crowning, to ensure you don't alter the fret heights once they're levelled. I got a good result the first time I did it, but have now done maybe 15 or more fret jobs. After a while, I realised I was better using the box level to assess the neck straightness when adjusting the truss rod before starting, as it's more accurately straight than the aluminium alloy rule I had.

Megii

And you don't have to remove the nut, just to add...

Gizmo

I did the standard mark dress level everthing for years but now i follow this Sam deeks banana/truss rod method



Both work for me but the above is handy if you only have a bit of buzz on 1 or 2 frets on 1 or 2 strings. 1000 ways to skin a cat as they say