Solder type, which to get?

absolutpepper

okay so I’ve been building a wee esquire. It’s looking pretty good - MJT body, allparts custom neck, bare knuckle country boy and an oil city eldred harness. I had originally planned to put it into a shop to be wired but thought what the heck I’ll learn it myself. Anyways long story short I’m looking for advice and recommendations for good quality solder for the job. I’ve seen online that silver bearing rosin solder is the best bet and to avoid lead but I’m not seeing a lot of silver solder around to buy. I’m open to advice or recommendations (inc links where I can get the good stuff). Cheers folks

m_c

Just to clarify, silver solder is a totally different thing, so I wouldn't be searching for it.

Lead solder is easier to work with, as it melts at a lower temperature and flows better than lead free solder. To use lead free with the minimum amount of hassle, you have to make sure everything is clean, you ideally need a temperature controlled soldering iron, and you have to be quite proficient to avoid spikes (too much heat for too long makes them more likely to happen)

For general use, just search on ebay for 'solder wire', then take your pick between tin/lead, or lead free. For general use, just get something from a seller with good feedback.

ICBM

If you can't find it elsewhere, Maplins sell added-silver lead-free solder, which is good. They're far from the cheapest but in the quantities you need, it won't matter much.

Don't get their - or anyone else's - plain lead-free solder, it's crap and not worth using despite the cost saving.

ThorpyFX

Send me your address by pm and I’ll put some silver solder in the post to you. It’s kester silver solder. 

streethawk

ICBM said:

If you can't find it elsewhere, Maplins sell added-silver lead-free solder, which is good. They're far from the cheapest but in the quantities you need, it won't matter much.

Don't get their - or anyone else's - plain lead-free solder, it's crap and not worth using despite the cost saving.

I'm using the Maplin stuff now, seems to have the highest silver content (or at least the packaging says so).

bbill335

Is there a reason not to use lead solder other than the fact that, y'know,  lead is bad?

Megii

I've often used the Maplin's silver content stuff for guitar wiring, and as said, it works well. But just recently did a wiring harness for a semi-acoustic, where I was soldering braided-shield vintage wire to the back of the mini pots, and used the leaded stuff for that, and I do think it really helped make the job go easier - it just melts and flows nicer, and with not wanting to damage the pots especially, I'm glad I went that way. I'll use the silver stuff again, it's fine, and lead is bad I know, but...

RiftAmps

There's no reason why you can't use leaded solder for non-commercial use, and for the small quantity that you'll use there are no health risks. Use 100g every day for 50 years and you might have a problem though

On my own guitars, I use this stuff -  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silverline-AS15-Solder-100-g-/182458355108?epid=2035497714&hash=item2a7b5d8da4:g:1SwAAOSw4CFYpwnP

Works so much better than the stuff I have to use in my amplifiers.
 

ICBM

streethawk said:

I'm using the Maplin stuff now, seems to have the highest silver content (or at least the packaging says so).

I have an idea it might be specifically intended to be so, for home-hobbyist use where soldering iron quality and user skill aren't expected to be high. It's expensive, but it really does work well.

Megii said:

I've often used the Maplin's silver content stuff for guitar wiring, and as said, it works well. But just recently did a wiring harness for a semi-acoustic, where I was soldering braided-shield vintage wire to the back of the mini pots, and used the leaded stuff for that, and I do think it really helped make the job go easier - it just melts and flows nicer, and with not wanting to damage the pots especially, I'm glad I went that way. I'll use the silver stuff again, it's fine, and lead is bad I know, but…

I keep some for fine PCB work as well, where it's just better to keep heat to a minimum if at all possible.

Adam_MD

I use the Maplin silver solder too and one of the larger rolls last me about a year or thereabouts.  It's more expensive than other stuff online but £15ish a year is fine for me.

jpfamps

The best lead-free solder I've found is actually Rapid Electronics own brand "premium" lead free with 3.9 % Ag.

This is a bit better than the Maplin high Ag content solder, and can be bought (mail order) in small quantities.

The higher silver content reduces the meting point which helps a lot, although the melting point is still over 30 degC more than leaded solder.

You can still get leaded solder on the high street from Halfords.