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start with the smallest components - resistors and work up in height to the largest caps. take your time and go nice and slow checking everything if it’s your first time as desoldering parts from a double sided pcb is a pain in the ass.
Magnifying glasses are good too if you have shitty eyesight like me.
Oh and be careful it’s really really addictive,
I think the EP clone took me less than an hour
Rift Amplification
Brackley, Northamptonshire
www.riftamps.co.uk
I can knock out the simple stuff in under an hour. Very good kits and great quality PCBs.
If you have good quality iron, solder (leaded is MUCH better), a good brass wire sponge thing (link below) a "third hand" gizmo is good (combined croc-clip holder and magnifier/light). And good side cutters
This sort of thing: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Arlent-Soldering-Cleaning-Nozzle-Cleaner/dp/B01A5PSLSW/ref=pd_day0_60_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Q993NFKDMRRX1HSNRKSY
@stickyfiddle 's list of essential tools above is good- no doubt there's loads of other stuff you *could* have, but that covers all the really essential stuff.
My top tip would be to sort all your components before you start, and put them somewhere they can't move. For small to medium builds you can use a sheet of A4 paper and some sticky tape (for bigger ones, use more paper). Stick down all the components of whatever value in one place and label them- "100k resistor" or whatever- so that when it comes to soldering them you're sure what's what. There's a bill of materials ("BOM") in the instructions to help you, and doing this will also allow you to check early in the process that you've got all the bits you should have. A multimeter or a resistor colour band guide will help.
Don't pay too much attention to people's estimates of how long it's going to take to build. Just take your time and check everything twice before you solder anything- putting things right after you've ballsed it up (and after you've worked out *what* you ballsed up) is much more difficult than just not making the mistake in the first place. Worst case, you get through so much of the kit before you need to go do something else and you put the rest aside for later. If you've taped all the components in place it'll be simple to pick up again where you left off.
Don't talk politics and don't throw stones. Your royal highnesses.
BYOC's bills of materials lists the resistor colour codes (resistors are the worst to sort) next to the values for total n00bs and people who don't have a multimeter, but a multimeter is better for removing all doubt- sometimes it's hard to tell whether that's an orange band or a red one, grey or black or whatever. If you're making a big kit, sorting by sight is a bloody nightmare. The last BYOC kit I built was a Divided Octave, which looks like this:
Don't talk politics and don't throw stones. Your royal highnesses.
If you're using the 3PDT daughterboard, the resistor marked CLR goes on that board, even though there's probably a space for it on the main board. If you understand circuits better than I did when I started, this should be obvious. This is just one of the things I learnt troubleshooting why the pedal worked fine but the LED didn't.
Also, the kits come with the 3PDT board as standard but don't come with the ribbon cable that really makes the insides tidy. You have to remember to order some of that separately (guess what I forgot to do?)
I have a hankering for doing another one...
I assume that the ones in the tiny enclosures are more fiddly than the standard sized one.
by which i mean that rather than simply translate known schematics onto pcb and leave it at that, he (Lee Fuzzdog, bloody nice bloke) actually puts time and thought into his r&d. he breadboards all his circuits and experirments with differerent values and options (diodes, transistors, etc). after which process he will either plan useful options into his designs, or mention them in his excellent build documents. that is going the extra mile.
only negative experiences or niggles i have had with his kits have been as a consequence of his (sometimes) use of coloured (painted) pcbs. sometimes it's really handy when trouble shooting to put a bright light behind the board to see immediately the track layout. but when the board is opaque black (for example) this is impossible. which then means cross-checking with the schematic then translating onto the pcb. so i always prefer boring old semi-transparent green pcbs for that reason.
they look nice in colours, as a product to market, but in practice (function) once they have been built and boxed you don't see them. semi-transparent makes an easier build experience.
as for tips and tools, i posted about a soldering iron in a soldering iron thread for beginners earlier this week re iron.
other things, get a grabby hands tool (stand with crocodile clips and magnifying glass), they make life so much easier.
safety glasses essential. solder can pop or spit or flick. don't risk your eyes
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cheap digital multimeter. tap in DT-830B in ebay or amazon. that's what i started with. it works great for basics, volts, resistance, can even use it to select transitors or diodes when you understand why that is a good thing to be able to do. they cost £3 or something silly.
http://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/dt830b-digital-multimeter.php
if you are going to be building a lot an extractor fan is useful to suck the flux smoke out of the way. charcoal filter one should cost no more than £20. or you can adapt a computer fan and use a oven exatractor charcoal filter and make your own.
good strong lamp, adjustable/directable over your work.
auto wire strippers very handy if making a lot. cheap ones work fine.
bitsbox is your friend for bits and pieces (uk based). https://www.bitsbox.co.uk/
Bob is the man! good prices and great service.
happy building. as others have said, it can be badly addictive. be warned.
On the subject of flux - when/how/why does one use it? I'm pretty sure the solder that came with my kit is leaded...
Don't talk politics and don't throw stones. Your royal highnesses.
Invest in an autoranging digital multimeter worth their wieght in gold, I find brown and red hard to read on resistors sometimes.
Also keep your iron tip clean I use a damp sponge to wipe it on.
Tate FX
www.TateFX.co.uk
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