Replacing a latching switch with a "soft" switch

Paul_C

Is there a switch/kit available that I could fit to a couple of my pedals ?

As they're on music stands, the pedals with soft switches are far easier to use.

Winny_Pooh

Fuzzdog does an optical kit

Paul_C

Winny_Pooh said:

Fuzzdog does an optical kit

Yes, but it's described as having "less clunk" rather than "no clunk".

It might be that that's a better solution if "no clunk" proves very expensive or there's not enough room.

clarkefan

I've no idea what they are but the switches on Marshall pedals (the most recent range, Guvnor 2, Reflector,  Jackhammer etc) are soft, might be worth giving them a bell to see if they're available.

m_c

The fuzz dogs are still using a latching switch similar in proportions to a typical 3PDT, however you could always swap the switch for something not quite so heavy duty.

Sassafras

I really like the Tech 21 'soft' switches.
No idea where you'd get them unless Tech 21 can supply you with a few. They must have spares.

ThorpyFX

Here you go.

https://www.mammothelectronics.com/collections/switches/products/click-less-true-bypass-relay-module-kit

ICBM

ThorpyFX said:

Here you go.

https://www.mammothelectronics.com/collections/switches/products/click-less-true-bypass-relay-module-kit

That’s very good value for money given the cost of the switch and the relay.

ecc83

Hmm? Do they mean no ACOUSTIC  click? If so fine but I have played around a bit with relays in guitar input paths and never got a really silent changeover. Once you buffer the signal, beer into water.

Might just buy one of those and have a do!

Dave.

ICBM

Yes, the signal-path click will still happen with a relay as well if there’s even the tiniest DC offset or possibly even just a change in load impedance, which is very likely.

I assume the OP is asking about no physical switch click though, for finger operation.

cLepto-bass

I had a similar requirement a few moths ago. Instead of modifying the pedal itself, I bought a Vein Tap True Bypass Looper (soft click version) and just put the pedal in question in the loop and used the switch as a master on/off. Works a charm. Later I sold it and replaced it with a Boss LS2 for the same use plus extra functionality. 

Maybe a thought...

ICBM

The Boss was my first thought as well, but in fact for hand operation on a music stand, the switch action is quite heavy - it’s click-less, but the spring is too powerful for a light finger press. I can’t remember if taking the spring out still works - just using the return spring in the switch itself - I’ll try it later...

cLepto-bass

ICBM said:

The Boss was my first thought as well, but in fact for hand operation on a music stand, the switch action is quite heavy - it’s click-less, but the spring is too powerful for a light finger press. I can’t remember if taking the spring out still works - just using the return spring in the switch itself - I’ll try it later...

In that case, certainly give the Vein Tap looper a go then if that option suits you. The soft click is similar to that of one of the newer Strymon pedals so super light to operate. 

sgosden

ICBM said:

The Boss was my first thought as well, but in fact for hand operation on a music stand, the switch action is quite heavy - it’s click-less, but the spring is too powerful for a light finger press. I can’t remember if taking the spring out still works - just using the return spring in the switch itself - I’ll try it later...

The TU3 that sits ontop of my rack for live use, tends to get punched on rather than pushed!

Paul_C

ThorpyFX said:

Here you go.

https://www.mammothelectronics.com/collections/switches/products/click-less-true-bypass-relay-module-kit

Thanks for that - I'll have to open a pedal or two and see if there's room, and start saving some pennies

glynes

If you want to replace the footswitch with something designed for hand-operation, rather than fit a different type of footswitch as suggested above, you could try a handswitch https://www.mouser.co.uk/Electromechanical/Switches/Toggle-Switches/_/N-5g2j?P=1z0z296

TateFX

Relay switching would be the way to go. I've just spent a few months looking into this and have made my own drop in replacement for a 3pdt.

The one Adrian linked from Mammoth is good but might be pricey when you factor in shipping. Have a look at this Coda effects mini kit you can order it with the relay and codded PIC for 8 Euro. Ships from France to the UK in about 4 days. you need to supply a few bits and the switch. 

http://www.coda-effects.com/p/relay-bypass-pcb.html

sgosden

With these sort switch boards, I'm guessing the foot switch is a SPST that sets and resets the relay coil?

Could you have a bypass looper with 3 in/outs, but with the switches in a different box? so you could have a couple of fx in the loop of an amp, sat on top within the looper, with the switches 20 ft away at front of stage. kinda similar to the gigrig remote loopy I guess.

m_c

sgosden said:

With these sort switch boards, I'm guessing the foot switch is a SPST that sets and resets the relay coil?

Could you have a bypass looper with 3 in/outs, but with the switches in a different box? so you could have a couple of fx in the loop of an amp, sat on top within the looper, with the switches 20 ft away at front of stage. kinda similar to the gigrig remote loopy I guess.

Yes, and yes.
And that second idea has just given me something to consider for the switcher I'm building for the first quarter challenge.

Something to consider with the suggestions made, is that Mammoth one uses a latching relay (means it'll only use power during switching), whereas that coda one uses a standard relay (needs power to stay switched). If you're running of a power supply, it's not issue, but if you're relying on batteries, the Coda one will use more power.

TateFX

m_c said:

sgosden said:

With these sort switch boards, I'm guessing the foot switch is a SPST that sets and resets the relay coil?

Could you have a bypass looper with 3 in/outs, but with the switches in a different box? so you could have a couple of fx in the loop of an amp, sat on top within the looper, with the switches 20 ft away at front of stage. kinda similar to the gigrig remote loopy I guess.

Yes, and yes.
And that second idea has just given me something to consider for the switcher I'm building for the first quarter challenge.

Something to consider with the suggestions made, is that Mammoth one uses a latching relay (means it'll only use power during switching), whereas that coda one uses a standard relay (needs power to stay switched). If you're running of a power supply, it's not issue, but if you're relying on batteries, the Coda one will use more power.

I'll measure the power draw later and report back (Y) 

m_c

Stu_tate said:

m_c said:

sgosden said:

With these sort switch boards, I'm guessing the foot switch is a SPST that sets and resets the relay coil?

Could you have a bypass looper with 3 in/outs, but with the switches in a different box? so you could have a couple of fx in the loop of an amp, sat on top within the looper, with the switches 20 ft away at front of stage. kinda similar to the gigrig remote loopy I guess.

Yes, and yes.
And that second idea has just given me something to consider for the switcher I'm building for the first quarter challenge.

Something to consider with the suggestions made, is that Mammoth one uses a latching relay (means it'll only use power during switching), whereas that coda one uses a standard relay (needs power to stay switched). If you're running of a power supply, it's not issue, but if you're relying on batteries, the Coda one will use more power.

I'll measure the power draw later and report back (Y) 

Datasheet for the NA5W-K used in the coda one states the coil power is 200mW, but that drops below 80mW when active, which at 9V should be around 22mA and 9mA. Actually just realised they're using a linear regulator to power everything at 5V, so you're probably looking at quite a bit more than 22mA and 9mA.

The specs for the Mammoth one are less than 0.0008 mA off, 3mA while on, and 23mA during switching.