Soldering iron recommendations please

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My ol' iron gave up the ghost at the weekend.

It belonged to my stepfather so it's positively ancient, but i liked it and it's rewired dozens of guitars.

What's the forum knowledge on new irons for guitar work? Also what solder do you use. I have a ton of old school lead stuff left which is a joy to use but probably not that healthy

Thanks 
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Comments

  • I have one of these: http://uk.farnell.com/tenma/21-10115-eu/soldering-station-60w-220v-eu/dp/2062627?st=tenma%20soldering%20station it's a nice setup, and I got some other tips for it for other applications as well as a larger spade type tip for applying some heat to frets prior to removal. I'm only a novice hobbyist on guitars but have more experience on soldering/electrickery
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72321
    The general rule seems to be Antex for lower-powered directly-wired irons, and Weller for higher-powered low-voltage 'soldering station' ones. I've got a couple of each and they've always done the job fine - I've had to replace the elements a few times in both, but that shouldn't be a problem for a few years.

    Leaded solder is perfectly OK to use as long as you don't go sniffing the fumes or eating it :). And remember to wash your hands after handling it, but I assume you would anyway...

    If you're going to use lead-free, the best by far is added-silver - typically 2-4% silver - avoid the plain lead-free, it's basically little more than pure tin and is difficult to get good clean joints with. The silver reduces the melting point and makes it flow much better, almost as good as leaded. Maplin sell it if you can't get it in small quantities elsewhere - it's expensive, but well worth it.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • What power rating should I be looking at?
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  • GagarynGagaryn Frets: 1553

    I recently bought one of these - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KBPN1ZU/ref=twister_B078B25K9W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

    Ironically I needed to resolder the socket onto the board as it was done badly in the factory but it is now a really good iron, heats up instantly and is well regulated. It was a punt for me but I have been really happy with it.

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  • streethawkstreethawk Frets: 1631
    I've had to bite the bullet and buy a Hakko 951. Delighted with it!

    Goes into sleep mode when not being used, maintains tip temp brilliantly. Absolute joy to use.

    They do a cheaper model too, probably overkill for home use but should last a lifetime:

    https://www.maplin.co.uk/p/hakko-fx-888d-70w-mains-solder-station-a86uf

    Cheaper here, and the guy is genuine:
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HAKKO-FX-888D-Genuine-UK-PLUG/222782363701?hash=item33dedd1835:g:lXUAAOSwtTVZjaGo

    The chinese boxes are hit and miss by all accounts. Don't buy the Antex iron with the variable setting built onto the plastic casing of the iron - it will break.

    Second what icbm said. Lead solder is not dangerous, the melting point is too high to give off fumes through soldering. The smoke from the flux in modern solder isn't too clever for you, but not really a problem for home use. Just be sensible with it. 

    I use the Maplin silver solder.






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  • GagarynGagaryn Frets: 1553
     Don't buy the Antex iron with the variable setting built onto the plastic casing of the iron - it will break.


    I can confirm this is true - mine is fooked, hence my punt on the dodgy Chinese box. I do still have an iron I bought sometime in the 80's that was £2 in Ali's Cave - used that to fix the new one! I think my next iron will be a Hakko though, well worth the expense if you will make regular use of it.
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72321
    What power rating should I be looking at?
    If you only have one iron, I would get 25-30W with a selection of tips. Powerful enough to do the back of a pot with a broad tip, but not over the top for fine work with a narrow one.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • normula1normula1 Frets: 640
    Maybe the quality has gone down but I've had one of the Antex variable temp irons for a good 10-15 years with no issues.

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  • normula1 said:
    Maybe the quality has gone down but I've had one of the Antex variable temp irons for a good 10-15 years with no issues.

    That's the issue I had. the older Antex were excellent. I 'loaned' one to a 'friend' and never saw it again, replaced it with a newer one a couple of years ago and it was awful- also temp wasn't very stable when I checked it out. Bought a cheap Tenma from Farnell as a stop gap due to temporary financial situation, will replace with Weller when/if it fails.
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  • I've got one of these, and it does the job with lead-free silver solder perfectly well (especially considering the price):

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Maplin-N78AR-Solder-Station-Variable-Temperature-Adjustable-Controlled-50W/263411603535?hash=item3d548e184f:g:hqEAAOSw28pZyOcQ

    Unfortunately, eBay seems to be the only place to get them, because Maplin no longer sell them.
    <space for hire>
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  • SteveRobinsonSteveRobinson Frets: 7028
    tFB Trader
    I have one of these: http://uk.farnell.com/tenma/21-10115-eu/soldering-station-60w-220v-eu/dp/2062627?st=tenma%20soldering%20station it's a nice setup, and I got some other tips for it for other applications as well as a larger spade type tip for applying some heat to frets prior to removal. I'm only a novice hobbyist on guitars but have more experience on soldering/electrickery
    I've got a couple of those but the irons don't seem to last very long. I had another fail today when changing tips.
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  • I have one of these: http://uk.farnell.com/tenma/21-10115-eu/soldering-station-60w-220v-eu/dp/2062627?st=tenma%20soldering%20station it's a nice setup, and I got some other tips for it for other applications as well as a larger spade type tip for applying some heat to frets prior to removal. I'm only a novice hobbyist on guitars but have more experience on soldering/electrickery
    I've got a couple of those but the irons don't seem to last very long. I had another fail today when changing tips.
    AH! Thanks, good to know. Perhaps I should accelerate the replacement- i don't use an iron that much but can guarantee it will fail JUST as I need it! 

    Cheers,

    Stephen
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  • Hakko's have a great reputation.  Can't go wrong with the 888d.
    I'd recommend getting the best one that you can afford. A good one
    will last a lifetime.
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  • My workplace has both Weller and metcal rework stations.
    I prefer metcal over Weller, as the metcal irons have a shorter distance from the grip to the tip, helping fine pitch work. I would look to get a second hand metcal one if you are spending a few hundred. 
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