what wood glue?

bandmaster188

hi folks, i've just got hold of a nice piece of hardwood. not sure exactly what it is yet as all surfaces are rough sawn but it does look like some kind of mahoghany type timber (found in a cellar but looks very healthy). it measures 35" long, 16" wide and about 1 1/4" thick. i'm planning on making a basic lap steel with it but its not quite thick enough. i was thinking of ripping the timber in half and glueing the 2 pieces together to create a thicker slab to work with. is this a wise move and if so, what glue should i be using?

cheers!

WezV

that will work fine, and titebond original would be the glue of choice.

although actually leaving it at 1 1/4" will be better than making it 2 1/2".  depends what thickness it actually is once planed smooth but i wouldn't want the overall thickness to be more than 2"

octatonic

Definitely Titebond.

I am particularly partial to hide glue myself, but it has a short open time so you need to work quickly.

DiscoStu

Aye, Titebond Original.

bandmaster188

WezV said:

that will work fine, and titebond original would be the glue of choice.

although actually leaving it at 1 1/4" will be better than making it 2 1/2".  depends what thickness it actually is once planed smooth but i wouldn't want the overall thickness to be more than 2"

Cheers guys, I was thinking my daughters paper glue might not be quite strong enough! I will get both halves planed down so I end up with an overall slab of around 1 3/4".

WezV

octatonic said:

Definitely Titebond.

I am particularly partial to hide glue myself, but it has a short open time so you need to work quickly.

proper hot hide glue (not pre-mixed & bottled) is great.   But its definitely best when the work piece is warm, and that makes it a lot more difficult to use effectively on joins this size.   even smaller joins are a lot of work for the average hobbyist compared to titebond original which is 95% as good in most situations

the smell always takes me back to visiting my granddad as he worked on his Pianola 

bandmaster188

Would evostik resin wood glues be the same kind of stuff as titebond? Only I've got a bottle on the van and it would be silly to go out and buy more ( tight bastard)

Andyjr1515

Evostik resin wood is good but titebond is much better for this job. Better for sanding once set, too

ICBM

Don't use Evostik or any other PVA glue for butt (or any other non-interlocing "woodwork") joints where there is tension applied - it can creep under load and eventually fail. The "stronger than the wood" claim is only true under some conditions. It's particularly bad for headstock repairs because of this.

impmann

Titebond isn't expensive and it is the best for repairs, and building guitars. It also sets really quite quickly (if you get the original stuff with the red label), plus if anything needs doing in the future most repair techs/luthiers have experience of working with it.

ThePrettyDamned

Is there any truth in the titebond vs hot hide glue for tone?

I mean, it sounds like crap, but then again, I've never used either, nor have I tested guitars with them...

WezV

There is some truth in it, but not enough to lose sleep over.

 

Imagine if you glue layer was very rubbery, which some are, it can dampen vibration between the 2 peices of wood.   Both titebond and hot hide glue are very hard and brittle when used correctly and this leads to good transference of energy.   Both have a good history for stringed instruments

 

More important than tone is workability.  Titebond is easier to work at the start, hide glue is easier to dismantle at the end.

ThePrettyDamned

Cool, cheers.

Probably not worth sending your guitars off to have the necks reset with hide glue, then.

ICBM

ThePrettyDamned said:

Probably not worth sending your guitars off to have the necks reset with hide glue, then.

I dare you to post that on the Les Paul Forum.

ThePrettyDamned

ICBM;185098" said:

ThePrettyDamned said:



Probably not worth sending your guitars off to have the necks reset with hide glue, then.





I dare you to post that on the Les Paul Forum.

I'd heard stories of people changing the glue on r9s and stuff, but not sure how much I believe them.

impmann

These people need to leave the house more...

octatonic

WezV said:

More important than tone is workability.  Titebond is easier to work at the start, hide glue is easier to dismantle at the end.

Yup, they both have their places.

I like using hide glue for doing binding- I can reheat the glue with a hair dryer or a bending iron and move the binding about if need be.

Same with removing bridges.

I do rosettes and jointing with Titebond.

jonnyburgo

I like this stuff

bandmaster188

 

jonnyburgo said:

I like this stuff

i hope thats not made from real gorilla's

ThePrettyDamned

bandmaster188;185338" said:

 

jonnyburgo said:

I like this stuff







i hope thats not made from real gorilla's

I hope it is, otherwise I'd feel like I'm being duped by brand names.

Like that time a bought some sex wax.

ICBM