'Fender in a box' pedal recommendations please

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kossofffankossofffan Frets: 191
edited March 11 in FX
Just wondering the impossible question, as my next fun tone chase is on. Trouble is my amp is a Plexi into a 4x12.
Or just scoop the GE-7 ?
Thanks in advance

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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 30913
    Boss FDR-1 Fender Deluxe Reverb.

    Now discontinued and going up in price, but not as badly as the FRV-1 stand-alone reverb...
    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone."
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  • Grocer_JackGrocer_Jack Frets: 46
    Tweed or Blackface? 
    For Tweed Les Lius. For Blackface it's the Wampler Black 65. 

    For a wide range of Fenderish sounds on the cheap - The Joyo American Sound. 
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  • munckeemunckee Frets: 977
    Tweed or Blackface? 
    For Tweed Les Lius. For Blackface it's the Wampler Black 65. 

    For a wide range of Fenderish sounds on the cheap - The Joyo American Sound. 
    American sound is a great pedal, I paid £34 quid for it brand new and was amazed how good it is, I use it loads.
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  • kossofffankossofffan Frets: 191
    Thanks peeps,  I'll have a look at the Joyo :)
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  • kossofffankossofffan Frets: 191
    Not many UK stockists for the Joyo, it seems!
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  • guitarfishbayguitarfishbay Frets: 6795
    edited March 11
    I have an AMT F1 if you’re interested. It’s a Fender style preamp pedal. I’d like £55 posted, it has Velcro on the bottom.


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  • Grocer_JackGrocer_Jack Frets: 46
    munckee said:
    Amazon has the Ammoon AP-13 American Sound for £25. I have this and guess what, it's exactly the same pedal as the Joyo. I've had both and for sure they're exactly the same just a different 'branding'. I think you can get a Harley Benton version that's also exactly the same.
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  • BabonesBabones Frets: 864
    ICBM said:


    Now discontinued and going up in price, but not as badly as the FRV-1 stand-alone reverb...
    Yeah I noticed that recently, after some guy on YT mentioned it. It is quite a good pedal for that type of reverb sound though.
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  • zepp76zepp76 Frets: 398
    Sorry to hijack the thread but I'd also be interested in a Fender in a box style pedal. So that being said, which of the choices would be suitable for getting close to Peter Greens Fender era tones? I know it was all in his fingers and helped by the out of phase pickups but an approximation of his sound is all I need. many thanks.
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  • JezWyndJezWynd Frets: 2127
    Babones said:
    ICBM said:


    Now discontinued and going up in price, but not as badly as the FRV-1 stand-alone reverb...
    Yeah I noticed that recently, after some guy on YT mentioned it. It is quite a good pedal for that type of reverb sound though.
    It's amazing how desirable some things suddenly become simply because they've been discontinued. The FRV-1 is a very good reverb pedal but there's nothing there sonically that can't be found in the Biyang Tri Verb.
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  • BillKatBillKat Frets: 1004
    CTC Blackface Stardust, blackface sounds, its pretty much like my Pro Reverb but dirty. Not had it long but really liking it so far.


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  • BabonesBabones Frets: 864
    JezWynd said:
    Babones said:
    ICBM said:


    Now discontinued and going up in price, but not as badly as the FRV-1 stand-alone reverb...
    Yeah I noticed that recently, after some guy on YT mentioned it. It is quite a good pedal for that type of reverb sound though.
    It's amazing how desirable some things suddenly become simply because they've been discontinued. The FRV-1 is a very good reverb pedal but there's nothing there sonically that can't be found in the Biyang Tri Verb.
    Boss, innit.

    I wonder why it was discontinued though. I assume they were good sellers. Perhaps contract period expired or something.
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  • tone1tone1 Frets: 1432
    I’ve got a FRV-1 Reverb in Classifieds for £90 collection or plus postage... There is one for £250 on EBay (madness)
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 30913
    Babones said:

    Boss, innit.

    I wonder why it was discontinued though. I assume they were good sellers. Perhaps contract period expired or something.
    From what I’ve read elsewhere, it was that - Fender didn’t want to licence them any more, possibly because they’re bringing out their own range of pedals.

    The FDR-1 is definitely what you want for a Fender-amp-with-reverb sound into something without it. The tremolo is less convincing - the wave shape isn’t right somehow - but usable if you don’t want to bother with a separate tremolo pedal.
    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone."
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  • JezWyndJezWynd Frets: 2127
    On a more general note; how much influence does the amp being used have with these ampinabox pedals? Is it a suck it and see scenario? I can imagine them working better with solid state amps where the clean tone is more likely to be a flat uninflected sound but how about a Vox AC15 fr'instance, that has a very defined sonic signature?

    I used the Boss/Fender pedals to spice up a JC-22 and while they worked quite successfully I still preferred my humble Laney Cub 10's tones.
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 30913
    I actually think a clean valve amp works better than a solid-state one, with the FDR-1. OK there can be a bit of a compromise with EQ, but I find it just sounds more natural.
    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone."
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  • -NFM--NFM- Frets: 9
    edited March 11
    Another suggestion worth looking at - Catalinbread 5F6, modelled after a Tweed Bassman but the Joyo is well worth a try and tbh when you consider how cheap it is, its excellent! 


     

    (FWIW Harley Benton are same company as Joyo, but branded specially for Thomann/their distributors. I'd imagine a few of the other brands are similar scenarios)

    Also re @JezWynd ;;+ @ICBM discussing how to set them up - While a clean valve-amp is probably the common approach, I've also fed them directly into the FX Loop Return to bypass the pre-amp entirely & its sounded pretty good on a couple of Vox amps so thats an option. Unless the power tubes are being really driven at a high volume and the speakers at their edge of breaking up, most of the amp's 'tone' is from the pre-amp stage so its effectively just giving you a really clean power stage to work with.

    Just make sure to have a load attached to the amp input & FX Send sockets (a stomp box & patch cable on each is fine) so the circuits of the amp are fully engaged & dial the power down to a minimum on the preamp stage as its not in use anyway so saves wear on tubes. I'll openly admit I'm not an amp expert, and I've only done it a few times so I can't guarantee this is fine for long term use, but to the best of my knowledge there's no reason why it shouldn't be fine to do occasionally! (and will happily defer to any amp gurus on that!!).

    *small edit - I messed up the formatting and ended up with a video mid-text :p
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  • KebabkidKebabkid Frets: 1340
    Another +1 for the Catlinbread 5F6. 
    Great tone-shaping in it
     www.cairoeast.co.uk - Madness Tribute band (Bass Player) and guitarist elsewhere
    Feedback - http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/57885/
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 30913
    edited March 12
    -NFM- said:

    Just make sure to have a load attached to the amp input & FX Send sockets (a stomp box & patch cable on each is fine) so the circuits of the amp are fully engaged & dial the power down to a minimum on the preamp stage as its not in use anyway so saves wear on tubes.
    You definitely don’t need to do any of this, unless the amp has some sort of switch in the input jack which mutes the power section - very unusual, although some Blackstars do have this.

    The preamp does not need to be ‘loaded’ in the same way as a power amp does, and with no input signal the preamp valves are all operating at idle irrespective of where the controls are set.

    In fact, unless the power section is muted with no lead in the input jack, putting a cable in will do the exact opposite of what you want since there is a signal muting switch for the preamp in the jack in almost all amps, so putting a cable in will defeat this.

    Unless you can’t get the power section to work without a cable in the input, don’t do it.
    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone."
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  • mellowsunmellowsun Frets: 2290
    Pricey but you won’t get a better Blackface in a box sound with the Effectrode Blackbird.

    Takes pedals really well and with some IRs and reverb you have a rig in a box that combines the best of old skool and latest tech
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 30913
    mellowsun said:
    Pricey but you won’t get a better Blackface in a box sound with the Effectrode Blackbird.

    Takes pedals really well and with some IRs and reverb you have a rig in a box that combines the best of old skool and latest tech
    This is one of those, through a clean Twin...


    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone."
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  • munckeemunckee Frets: 977
    edited March 12
    JezWynd said:
    On a more general note; how much influence does the amp being used have with these ampinabox pedals? Is it a suck it and see scenario? I can imagine them working better with solid state amps where the clean tone is more likely to be a flat uninflected sound but how about a Vox AC15 fr'instance, that has a very defined sonic signature?

    I used the Boss/Fender pedals to spice up a JC-22 and while they worked quite successfully I still preferred my humble Laney Cub 10's tones.
    I use the american sound into a 5f1 modified champion 600.  With the voice at 12 o clock its the same sound but I can use the EQ and drive.  Below 12 is more modern fender sound above 12 gets more middy is how I would describe it.  Each control really affects the other though so you can really tinker if you so wish.
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  • -NFM--NFM- Frets: 9
    ICBM said:
    -NFM- said:

    Just make sure to have a load attached to the amp input & FX Send sockets (a stomp box & patch cable on each is fine) so the circuits of the amp are fully engaged & dial the power down to a minimum on the preamp stage as its not in use anyway so saves wear on tubes.
    You definitely don’t need to do any of this, unless the amp has some sort of switch in the input jack which mutes the power section - very unusual, although some Blackstars do have this.

    The preamp does not need to be ‘loaded’ in the same way as a power amp does, and with no input signal the preamp valves are all operating at idle irrespective of where the controls are set.

    In fact, unless the power section is muted with no lead in the input jack, putting a cable in will do the exact opposite of what you want since there is a signal muting switch for the preamp in the jack in almost all amps, so putting a cable in will defeat this.

    Unless you can’t get the power section to work without a cable in the input, don’t do it.
    Thanks @ICBM - Glad you could clarify where I'd gone wrong there. I wasn't too sure myself as my own amps (Fender/Vox) seem to work fine with just the FX loop return but I've had to use that setup on other ones and always been a bit unsure if was just my amps!
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 30913
    -NFM- said:

    Thanks @ICBM - Glad you could clarify where I'd gone wrong there. I wasn't too sure myself as my own amps (Fender/Vox) seem to work fine with just the FX loop return but I've had to use that setup on other ones and always been a bit unsure if was just my amps!
    Not really 'wrong', just unnecessary. It won't do any harm, but it's more of a faff than you need ;).

    If it matters, if you have an amp like one of the Blackstars which does need a plug in the input to turn it on, what you really need is a 'shorting plug' - a spare jack plug with the hot connected to the sleeve. That will both make the amp work and maintain the muting of the preamp.
    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone."
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