Laney Cub 10 issue

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lincolnbluelincolnblue Frets: 294
I was playing my Laney Cub 10 this morning.  After a while it was fine but when I first switched it on it sounded a big crackley and almost like there was a slight Tremolo on.
Then it would every so often go quiet. To rectify it I switched it off where there was a slight pop then immediately back on and it was at proper volume.

Any ideas? Is it bust? 
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Comments

  • GrumpyrockerGrumpyrocker Frets: 4131
    Might be the problem my Cub 12R had. Dodgy thermister.  Laney fixed it for me for free.

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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72214
    I don't think it's the thermistor if the volume was capable of coming back on to full instantly - the thermistor is in the valve heater circuit so it takes a few seconds for the valves to warm up again.

    If there's nothing obvious I would first check the preamp valves are making good contact with the sockets, and that the speaker jack and cabling aren't the cause - try wiggling the speaker cable. If the FX loop hasn't been modded to series it won't be that either.

    It might even just have been a bad contact in the power switch, if turning it of and on seems to have fixed it..

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • DJH83004DJH83004 Frets: 196
    I recently repaired one for Ash who posts on here, with similar symptoms, it wasn't the Thermistor, as I originally suspected, but turned out to be poor soldered  joints on the output valves bases onto the PCB, so easily sorted if you have reasonable soldering skills and are familiar with working inside a valve amp chassis and the associated dangers therein. 
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  • lincolnbluelincolnblue Frets: 294
    DJH83004 said:
    I recently repaired one for Ash who posts on here, with similar symptoms, it wasn't the Thermistor, as I originally suspected, but turned out to be poor soldered  joints on the output valves bases onto the PCB, so easily sorted if you have reasonable soldering skills and are familiar with working inside a valve amp chassis and the associated dangers therein. 
    That'll be a no Unfortunately.  Will have to take it to an amp tech. 
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72214
    Unless you use the amp for gigging where a failure would cause a lot of hassle, don’t do anything unless the fault comes back. If it’s only done it once so far, it’s not impossible that it was something like a tiny bit of dirt in the switch, and it won’t do it again.


    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • lincolnbluelincolnblue Frets: 294
    ICBM said:
    Unless you use the amp for gigging where a failure would cause a lot of hassle, don’t do anything unless the fault comes back. If it’s only done it once so far, it’s not impossible that it was something like a tiny bit of dirt in the switch, and it won’t do it again.


    Thanks for the advice. I'll see how it goes. On a cheap amp the question is always whether it's cost effective to fox anyway
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  • antifashantifash Frets: 603
    DJH83004 said:
    I recently repaired one for Ash who posts on here, with similar symptoms, it wasn't the Thermistor, as I originally suspected, but turned out to be poor soldered  joints on the output valves bases onto the PCB, so easily sorted if you have reasonable soldering skills and are familiar with working inside a valve amp chassis and the associated dangers therein. 
    That'll be a no Unfortunately.  Will have to take it to an amp tech. 
    My Cub 10 has been healthy since Dave fixed it. If you can get to him - I would.
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  • lincolnbluelincolnblue Frets: 294
    DJH83004 said:
    I recently repaired one for Ash who posts on here, with similar symptoms, it wasn't the Thermistor, as I originally suspected, but turned out to be poor soldered  joints on the output valves bases onto the PCB, so easily sorted if you have reasonable soldering skills and are familiar with working inside a valve amp chassis and the associated dangers therein. 

    Where are you based?
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72214
    lincolnblue said:

    On a cheap amp the question is always whether it's cost effective to fox anyway
    It certainly will be on this, even if it's as serious as a faulty transformer - which it could be, although it's at the unlikely end of the range. (Even with a Laney.)

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • DJH83004DJH83004 Frets: 196
    edited March 2018
    I am based in Nottinghamshire, but I do agree with IC, that you should live with it for a while and see if the problem reoccurs. I am more than happy to have a look, but if you have an amp tech more local, I'm sure they will be familiar with the Cub range and it shouldn't work out too expensive.   
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  • lincolnbluelincolnblue Frets: 294
    DJH83004 said:
    I am based in Nottinghamshire, but I do agree with IC, that you should live with it for a while and see if the problem reoccurs. I am more than happy to have a look, but if you have an amp tech more local, I'm sure they will be familiar with the Cub range and it shouldn't work out too expensive.   
    Thanks.  I Will see how it goes.  I'm in Lincolnshire so not too far if I need to bring it to you.  Thanks
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