SteveF's Pedal Building Journey

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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 234
    edited April 30

    Adam_MD said:
    Unfortunately not.  I only order one type of pot from Tayda Alpha 16mm right angled PCB mount with a 15mm tall and 6mm wide shaft

    https://www.taydaelectronics.com/potentiometer-variable-resistors/rotary-potentiometer/logarithmic/10k-ohm-logarithmic-taper-potentiometer-round-shaft-pc-mount.html

    If I need to use them for a vero build I just cut the excess leg off where it bends at 90 degrees.


    If you're soldering them for a Vero build do you use the little 5x2 Vero trick that the tagboardeffects guy suggests or do you just solder straight to the little pin?

    EDIT: Cancel that, I just looked at them again, the Vero thing wouldn't work with those and they look like they have enough leg to solder to before the 90deg bend. 
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 234
    How long do Tayda orders usually take to come through using the standard postal option to avoid the import charges etc?  I did an order at the outset of this before I realised about the codes and it hasn't arrived yet.  That was on 8 Apr. 
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  • PhiltrePhiltre Frets: 741
    Longest time Tayda has taken for me was 18 days, shortest was 8 days. If you ordered on 8th April that does seem a long time ago.
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 234
    This answers that question! :angry: 



    So much for not getting pinged on the slower options. 
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 234
    Although weirdly I'm wondering if this is actually the second parcel. (invoice date is 26 Apr).  God knows where the first is then. 
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  • PhiltrePhiltre Frets: 741
    edited April 30
    Shit. How did that happen? How did they calculate that amount? Check your Tayda order and tracking in case you chose the wrong delivery option by mistake. The DHL option can sometimes be cheaper.
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 234
    Yeah I’ll have a check thoroughly later. I’m thinking that invoice date might be parcelforces invoice, not taydas so could be the first package. It would be very quick otherwise.  I’ll work it out and check what I did to see where it went wrong. Who normally delivers yours? Parcelforce or Royal Mail? Wondering if it was too big/heavy for RM on this end so ended up as parcelforce.  
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  • PhiltrePhiltre Frets: 741
    Royal Mail.
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  • Adam_MDAdam_MD Frets: 2925
    Royal Mail always delivers mine and I’ve never been hit for import charges in almost 3 years now.  
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 234
    Adam_MD said:
    Royal Mail always delivers mine and I’ve never been hit for import charges in almost 3 years now.  
    That makes me feel so much better.... :lol:
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  • Adam_MDAdam_MD Frets: 2925
    SteveF said:
    Adam_MD said:
    Royal Mail always delivers mine and I’ve never been hit for import charges in almost 3 years now.  
    That makes me feel so much better.... :lol:
    To be honest I’ve been waiting for the other shoe to drop for a while now.  I won’t be able to complain if they do charge me for one of my orders.  
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 234
    It was a fairly big order to be fair - I reckon it will still have worked out cheaper than buying a dozen or so enclosures, 100+ pots and knobs etc via bitsbox or similar. Like you say, I'm sure if I don't get pinged every time, the odd one won't be too painful.
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  • Adam_MDAdam_MD Frets: 2925
    SteveF said:
    It was a fairly big order to be fair - I reckon it will still have worked out cheaper than buying a dozen or so enclosures, 100+ pots and knobs etc via bitsbox or similar. Like you say, I'm sure if I don't get pinged every time, the odd one won't be too painful.
    Ah If it was that huge that’s probably why you got stung.  I’ve only ordered enclosures from them once it’s usually just pots and knobs for me these days.  
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 234
    Yeah, I assume it was the size was too big for Royal Mail. 
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  • PhiltrePhiltre Frets: 741
    Are you sure you chose the "Registered Mail" option for that order? If you did, then I reckon it's as @Adam_MD says because of the physical size being too big for RM.

    But how did PF calculate the duty? Based on what the value declared on the outside of the parcel?
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 234
    Not sure yet. It’s not here til tomorrow. Had to pay the ransom first! :lol: 
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 234
    Just checked. Both orders on registered mail 7-16 days
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 234
    Charges calculated as: 

    The value of the goods for import VAT is based on the:

    • basic value of goods, plus
    • postage, packing and insurance, plus
    • any import (Customs or Excise) duties charged
    Mine was $201 inc P&P. Currently about £150.  Import VAT is supposed to be around 20% and I was charged closer to 10% so I can only assume that the declared value was lower.  Will confirm tomorrow.  Either way, I can't complain.  Although the parcel force admin charge of 11 quid is rubbish. 
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  • PhiltrePhiltre Frets: 741
    Steve, did you figure out which Tayda order it was? Did you receive your other order yet?
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 234
    Yes I've had it now.  It was the first order.  They'd under declared the value by about 50% which I'm rather glad about given the fee. 
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 234
    Haven't had the second one yet - ordered that one on around the 24th or something I think?  I actually also have another one coming as they just had another code.... I may have a problem... :lol: 
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 234
    I now have the world's supply of bits and haven't had much chance to do anything yet.  But I have managed to knock up a couple of enclosure designs so that I can do a batch of enclosures at once. Here's a sneak peak :) 




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  • PhiltrePhiltre Frets: 741
    Tayda Addict? Me too. =)

    Designs will be interesting to see when completed!
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 234
    Going to go with print and ET this time. Hopefully I won't screw it up! :lol:

    I might try the joker one again sometime if I can work out how to etch the black and then paint on the colour.  Not quite worked out how to approach it yet though and I think I would have a go at some simpler etches first. 
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 234
    Have any of you built a wah yet?  If so, what enclosure did you use?  I fancy having a go at taking all the similar crybaby schematics from tagboardeffects and rigging up a rotary switch on the side so that you can select between them.  e.g have a slash, Bonamassa, wylde, standard etc all in one pedal. 
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  • oafoaf Frets: 166
    @SteveF said:
    Going to go with print and ET this time. Hopefully I won't screw it up! :lol:

    I might try the joker one again sometime if I can work out how to etch the black and then paint on the colour.  Not quite worked out how to approach it yet though and I think I would have a go at some simpler etches first. 
    The way I etch is to spray the top of the enclosure with photoresist such as Positiv 20. I make sure that it is even and follow the application and drying instructions carefully. Try to keep the enclosure out of bright light! Get photoresist that self-levels. I dry the enclosure in a closed metal biscuit tin which then goes inside an oven.

    I print my design on acetate, making several copies. Layer up your copies so that they match perfectly (i.e. each layer is exactly on top of the other) and carefully tape them together so that they won't move about. Take some time over this step. Make sure that your layered image is very opaque. Some people print their image so that the ink is on the side of the acetate that touches the enclosure (i.e. flipped, so that you're looking through the acetate to see your design) but if you're layering your acetate anyway it might not be worth the trouble.

    Then lay your multilayer acetate on the top of the (coated) enclosure. Make sure that it is flat. You may find it helpful to put a piece of glass over the acetate (flat Pyrex bowl will do in a pinch). Use a UV light to expose your image (lots of options for lights that produce UV). Time your exposure, note it down for next time.

    Develop the photoresist and gently wipe away the bits that have been dissolved. Rinse well and take care not to overdevelop. The photoresist isn't very tough so handle it gently.

    You may be surprised how little exposure time you need (although that'll depend on how bright/UVish/close your light source is).

    You might have to fill in any gaps where photoresist has been removed that shouldn't have been. You can sometimes get away with using permanent marker for this, or nail varnish, paint, plastic electrical tape, however there are etch resistant pens that you can buy too. Go to some trouble to quality check your photoresist (and start again if it's no good - e.g. over or underexposed or blurry; it should be really sharp).

    Before I etch I carefully tape up the sides of the enclosure and any large areas on the top that I want to protect. The enclosure will float in the etching solution but you don't (I assume) want the sides to be etched/damaged. I also put a loop of tape on the inside of the enclosure so I can wiggle it about a bit while it is etching. Alternatively some people keep the enclosure face up and then dribble/pipette small quantities of the solution on the top of the enclosure.

    Don't overetch. Keep an eye on how your etch is progressing and clear any bubbles, etched material, etc regularly. Make sure that all of the area that you want to etch is being etched. Don't overetch!

    I don't think that you really need to etch all that deeply to get a good result. In fact I have a sense that the deeper you go the more likely you are to lose definition and end up with a less sharp image. Experiment but you will probably find that a slightly shallow (but very sharp) etch looks better than a really deep but blurry one.

    Carefully wash your enclosure, remove all the tape and then remove the photoresist (use a little alcohol). You can fill the etch with permanent black marker to accentuate it or spray it with paint then sand it back (so that only the etch contains your paint, contrasting metallic paint looks quite nice) or add a waterslide, apply different colours of paint with a brush, etc...

    Note that your enclosure can get hot when etching. The etching solution (I assume you'll use Ferric Chloride) is pretty nasty stuff and can easily damage you, your clothes, work surfaces, your house, pets... you get the picture. So treat it with respect and don't rush anything, spill it, etc.

    Prep your enclosure well. Sand it so that it is really smooth, clean and flat before you apply the photoresist. Spray the resist on enclosures in batches and then you can dry/keep them in a box out of the light, ready for the etching stage.

    Oh and don't drill the enclosure before you etch (obvious, I know, but...!) You may find it helpful to include some drill centre spots in your etch though. You might get away with using a single acetate but it's probably safer to double/triple your layers to be more certain of stopping the UV getting through.

    Hope this helps :) be sure to share your results!

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  • oafoaf Frets: 166
    SteveF said:
    Have any of you built a wah yet?  If so, what enclosure did you use?  I fancy having a go at taking all the similar crybaby schematics from tagboardeffects and rigging up a rotary switch on the side so that you can select between them.  e.g have a slash, Bonamassa, wylde, standard etc all in one pedal. 
    My wah and tuner pedals are the only ones that I haven't made myself... I got an RMC, very pleased with it and Geoffrey Teese has been very helpful when I've written to him with questions.



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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 234
    oaf said:
    @SteveF said:
    Going to go with print and ET this time. Hopefully I won't screw it up! :lol:

    I might try the joker one again sometime if I can work out how to etch the black and then paint on the colour.  Not quite worked out how to approach it yet though and I think I would have a go at some simpler etches first. 
    The way I etch is.. <snip>.

    Hope this helps :) be sure to share your results!

    Wow, thanks! :) Will definitely have a go at some stage.  I might try the laser printer option first purely because I already have an old iron and access to a laser printer but will defo have a go of your method too.  Got some pics of your results? 
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  • oafoaf Frets: 166
    Here's a not very good picture of one I did

    image
    There's a little... "pinning"(?) where you can see the acid got through where it shouldn't have (the etch is very deep) but it isn't bad. The metallic paint looks a bit flaky but is OK in the flesh.
    Good luck with the iron on method. I tried it using a good laser printer, genuine toner, decent iron... and got absolutely nowhere! Others get good results though so it'll be interesting to see how you get on.
    I'll see if I can snap some other pedals when I have a moment.
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 234
    Ah I did see that pic before, I thought it was one of Phil's :lol:  Looks great.  I actually like the effect of the paint :) 
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