Q418C 355 Kit Build

SteveRobinson

I'd strip it off with white spirit before it fully dries.Trying to sand it smooth is going to be tricky I suspect.

Bridgehouse

There must be better solid black finishes that can be applied easier and don’t take a week to dry?

paulnb57

Crimson Stunning Stain and wipe on Poly......

Bridgehouse

paulnb57 said:

Crimson Stunning Stain and wipe on Poly......

Good call - or a colour fast black ink

paulnb57

Bridgehouse said:

paulnb57 said:

Crimson Stunning Stain and wipe on Poly......

Good call - or a colour fast black ink

Equally good call! Stain will allow the grain to show a bit, wipe on Poly, a few coats job done, the should be finished in a few day, just jeed ing a few more to fully harden especially in this weather, I bet you could do three coats a day....

I make my own
50/50 ish Polyurethane (oil based) floor varnish and thinners, I prefer Satin.......but each to their own.....

Bridgehouse

paulnb57 said:

Bridgehouse said:

paulnb57 said:

Crimson Stunning Stain and wipe on Poly......

Good call - or a colour fast black ink

Equally good call! Stain will allow the grain to show a bit, wipe on Poly, a few coats job done, the should be finished in a few day, just jeed ing a few more to fully harden especially in this weather, I bet you could do three coats a day....

I make my own
50/50 ish Polyurethane (oil based) floor varnish and thinners, I prefer Satin.......but each to their own.....

That last little nugget is brilliant - I need to do a P bass body in a bit and I may have to do a colour stain and that floor varnish formula - any particular brand?

paulnb57

I think I used Ronseal last time I did it..you might find the mixture needs a bit of tweaking, perhaps 60% thinners, I mix up about an inch in a hairgel pot, the more coats that go on it gradually gets thicker as the thinners evaporates from the pot, I keep applying until Im happy let it hared a couple of days then wiz over with 1200 wet n dry, just to knock down any specs of dust, the one more coat and call it good.........apply with a lint free cloth balled up, wipe on and wipe off like tru oil. 

This is an Air Rifle stock I refinished, I used Black ink, but it didn't apply as well as proper stain, can't remember the brand, but Quink is good.......
Stripped, stained, Poly'd and reassembled in 10 days....
https://i.imgur.com/4yoxsxd.jpg

Bridgehouse

paulnb57 said:

I think I used Ronseal last time I did it..you might find the mixture needs a bit of tweaking, perhaps 60% thinners, I mix up about an inch in a hairgel pot, the more coats that go on it gradually gets thicker as the thinners evaporates from the pot, I keep applying until Im happy let it hared a couple of days then wiz over with 1200 wet n dry, just to knock down any specs of dust, the one more coat and call it good.........apply with a lint free cloth balled up, wipe on and wipe off like tru oil. 

This is an Air Rifle stock I refinished, I used Black ink, but it didn't apply as well as proper stain, can't remember the brand, but Quink is good.......
Stripped, stained, Poly'd and reassembled in 10 days....
https://i.imgur.com/4yoxsxd.jpg

I’m going to try that. Bloody excellent. Thanks. Presumably standard paint thinners?

paulnb57

Yep standard paint thinners, the ink I used on the rifle was Windsor and Newton which was a bit "plastic" and seemed to stay on the surface rather than penetrate the wood, iI doubt it will be very durable, if did it again I'd use Crimson Waterbased Stunning Stain.....

DannyP

Thanks for the advice guys. I'm going to persist down the current road a little further I think because:

- I want to use tru oil as I've never used it before, and I've bought it now.
- The paint is linseed oil based, so I reckon it will be compatible with the tru oil. And I like the colour.
- I've used stain on my last 2 products and I want a solid finish
- I am a bloody minded fool
- it's an experiment anyway and I'm in no rush.

So we'll see how it goes...

DannyP

OK, so the oil paint experiment was pretty disastrous. I think the yank on youtube that gave the idea must have thinned his oil paint significantly with turps and used it more like a stain.

The brush marks hardened to resemble a vinyl record, and the grooves are proving extremely tricky to sand out - as @SteveRobinson correctly predicted.

So it's time to get rid. I guess that means:

- more aggressive sanding with grittier paper
- heat gun
- chemicals

I'm worried about flammability with the heat gun, and I'm worried about the binding with both heat gun and chemicals. There's binding front and back, in the f-holes and round the headstock - so hard to avoid.

Is there a chemical stripper that won't damage the binding?

Or will it have to be a patient and vigorous sanding?

munckee

Linseed oil is self-combustible and not to be messed around with.  Make sure you have got rid of any rags or brushes you have used.  I work in insurance and have seen numerous fires started by linseed oil rags.  Don't know about when applied but imagine its still a risk.

Roland

 Linseed oil “drying” isn’t what we normally think of as drying. That’s solvent evaporation. Instead it is an exothermic reaction. If too much heat builds up then rags can smoulder, or even catch fire.

Roland

DannyP said:

OK, so the oil paint experiment was pretty disastrous. I think the yank on youtube that gave the idea must have thinned his oil paint significantly with turps and used it more like a stain.

Last year I did a series of tests using oil paint pigments and carriers like white spirit, danish oil, and Osmo. It is possible to get a smooth, opaque finish. Depending on the colour, and hence the opacity of the pigment, I had to build up two or three coats.



As you can see the amount of pigment wasn’t sufficient to fill the grain.

DannyP

Roland said:

DannyP said:

OK, so the oil paint experiment was pretty disastrous. I think the yank on youtube that gave the idea must have thinned his oil paint significantly with turps and used it more like a stain.

Last year I did a series of tests using oil paint pigments and carriers like white spirit, danish oil, and Osmo. It is possible to get a smooth, opaque finish. Depending on the colour, and hence the opacity of the pigment, I had to build up two or three coats.



As you can see the amount of pigment wasn’t sufficient to fill the grain.

Cool, maybe I won't give up on the experiment quite yet! I do need to get rid of the current paint layer though, if anyone has any tips?

John_P

Personally I would sand it and avoid using any heat or chemicals near binding.  

DannyP

John_P said:

Personally I would sand it and avoid using any heat or chemicals near binding.  

This was my feeling too. Elbow grease it is, I reckon.

WezV

I would scrape rather than sand, but it’s going to be slow and painful either way.

Scraping the concave sections will be difficult without a curved scraper

SteveRobinson

A touch of heat might well soften it to make it easier to scrape. 

DannyP

Ugh. Fair enough. I'll try not to set fire to the damn thing