Rendering a pickup screw ‘threadless’ (intentionally)

jaymenon

I wonder- how would I smooth off the threads (i.e. render ‘threadless’) the top 2-3 mm of a screw - the bit just adjacent to the dome head?

I ask since I have a set of rather expensive pickups that I need to mount to wood on a Warmoth strat body. The holes in the Warmoth body are just the right size for the pickup screws - but since the thread on the pickups is perfect for the screw, I will wind up destroying the thread on the pickup base.

If I can somehow make the most proximal part of the screw thread less (I.e. like a 3/4 threaded screw), this would allow preservation of the thread on the pickup base and possible future mounting to a scratch plate... 

I suppose I could do the paper on a toothpick with superglue thing to make the holes on the wood body smaller - and use smaller screws. But  it’ll take a lot of paper a lot of superglue ...

Expert opinions most appreciated...

Funkfingers

Why not use a wood screw that is smaller than the thread hole in the baseplate then, take up the slack with a grommet?

This is what Charvel does on the San Dimas. This way, the only part that might require physical alteration is the grommet.

jaymenon

Please explain funkfingers - I didn’t understand that.

I have some 2.2mm thick screws that pass cleanly through the pickup holes, but the holes in the guitar body are too big - and the 2.2mm screws don’t ‘bite’

I could try making the holes in the body smaller with paper and superglue...?

Corvus

Mount screw in drill chuck; mount drill in a hazardous non H&S-approved manner with clamps, vice or whatever bodgery required; turn on drill, use a file against the threads you want gone. Hold the file with a hand at either end.

A drop of oil wouldn't hurt as well. Wear safety specs/goggles/etc. Don't stand directly in line with the file so bits are fired at your face.

Or similar in a drill press.

Corvus

I should add, the screw will be weakened quite a bit doing this, so do the least thread removal needed, drill pilot holes, use candlewax or soap and go easy on it with the screwdriver.

jaymenon

Kinman pickups take a conventional fender style screw which I think is 6-32UNC ( from what I understand the closest equivalent is M3.5).

I wonder if something like this would work if the top part passes freely through the holes in the pickup base?

the 3.5mm x 20mm 3/4 threaded screws measure:
3.1mm minor diameter
3.35mm major diameter
and 3.1mm in the unthreaded smooth top part near the dome head.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F182423982996

jaymenon

And thanks Corvus and Funkfingers for your help...!

jaymenon

Other options:

- fill the 3mm screw holes with wood filler and re-drill smaller holes?

- use a small rawl plug in the existing holes so I can use smaller screws

What a nuisance - I didn’t realise how much of a hassle this would be...

FX_Munkee

I've done this for body mounting before. The screw threads into a bar I set into the bottom of the pickup cavity and spins freely in the pickup ears. This way you can get adjustable height body mounting.

@Corvus method is correct but in reality you only have to remove a tiny bit of thread and on these screws it's so fine you can do it by running a file gently round the top bit.

jaymenon

One possible solution -  i’ll find out tomorrow if it’s worked.
I rolled up strips of paper (over a toothpick) then inserted them into the 3mm screw holes at the bottom of the pickup cavities.
Then a couple of drops of Superglue.
Tomorrow hopefully I’ll be able to screw in a 2.4mm diameter screw that will hold the pickups in place...

https://imgur.com/a/mOXvGPZ

jaymenon

All done and dusted.

 One problem on a Warmoth chambered body though -  passing the pick up wires down the routs for them  is a right pain. Sometimes I wonder if that channel makes contact with some of the ‘chambers‘ (It is a chambered body).

https://imgur.com/a/ft3oP8l

https://i.imgur.com/b7wm4lw.jpg