Newbie saying hello and need some advice please

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nutboxnutbox Frets: 34
edited April 2014 in Making & Modding
Hi there, This is my first post on here ,I have been looking through the forum for a while and have decided to take the plunge and buy my first guitar body project. It is a alder ibanez body which I think is an rg model it is in hsh configuration and I am very excited about it. Here are some pics of the body http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk170/nutbox76/Mobile Uploads/2014-04/20140404_194536_zpsb5evzv0o.jpg http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk170/nutbox76/Mobile Uploads/2014-04/20140404_194556_zpsvnol8flq.jpg http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk170/nutbox76/Mobile Uploads/2014-04/20140404_194602_zpsb5md5ba2.jpg http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk170/nutbox76/Mobile Uploads/2014-04/20140404_194610_zps0t8ni8eu.jpg As you can see it has a few defects on it which are the knot on the front and a few marks on the back which will sand out. As for plans I am looking to veneer the front of the guitar with flamed maple and would like to dye it red and use black around the outer edge for a burst effect,how easy is this to do? I have watched a few YouTube vids on it and it don't seem that bad,what is the best path to take on preparing the body for this process I.e sanding ,grain filler ,sand sealer and the like. Also where would the best place to get a ibanez or a neck that would fit this body which has a aanj pocket? Anyway all help appreciated because this is going to be a big learn curve for me and I look forward to showing you all what I have done. Thanks dazz
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Comments

  • Adam_MDAdam_MD Frets: 2976
    Welcome to the site. I can't help you with the veneer but in terms of finish wudtone seems to be quite popular round these parts. It looks great when finished and is suitable for a home DIYer.

    Good luck with the build
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  • nutboxnutbox Frets: 34
    Thank you Adam .
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  • TTonyTTony Frets: 15081
    Hey Dazz

    Wudtone gets a big vote from me.  For a DIYer who doesn't have the skills or tools to do "proper" spraying, Wudtone is a great option, IMHO.

    I posted a few of mine a while back ... here
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  • Andyjr1515Andyjr1515 Frets: 1858
    edited April 2014
    Hi. I don't have the links handy this evening but will post a few tomorrow of both applying veneer and also using red calligraphy ink for a fabulous red finish on maple. Doesn't get much easier or cheaper...or better :-)
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  • I'll plus one wudtone, and andyjr1515 with his ink is simply incredible. If you have spraying facilities, you'll get a flatter and shinier finish, but wudtone still looks good. There are other oil finishes, too, which can be sanded back with micro mesh to a pretty great shine, too.

    No need for grain filler with wudtone, and you only sand to 240-320 grit, and it's easy and family friendly to do. No nasty smells.
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  • nutboxnutbox Frets: 34
    Thank you for your suggestion,ttony thanks for the link I like the quilt top very nice. Andyjr1515 I shall look forward to your links it sound interesting. Thank dazz
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  • RichardjRichardj Frets: 1536
    As to necks, if you check out the good old Ebay there are a few places in the 'States that sell parted out Ibanez's, I'm sure I've seen S and RG necks going for well under £100. Of course you have to factor in shipping and potential customs fees.
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  • nutboxnutbox Frets: 34
    Thanks Richardj ,I have looked at eBay and seen some I like but just wondering if there was anywhere locally. It's always the way the USA has all the custom stuff I like. Also on another note,what is the proper way to add photos on this site? Thanks dazz
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  • Andyjr1515Andyjr1515 Frets: 1858
    Hi, Dazz

    Here's my latest.  This one is a solid maple top, but the effect would be the same with veneer:

    image

    It is red ink wiped on with a cloth; good old ronseal hardglaze varnish, watered down by 1/3 with white spirits and wiped on using a microfibre cloth (£2 for a pack of 3 at Homebase).

    This is a myrtle veneer on top of an ash body.  Same technique:

    image

    ...and here's the back...

    image

    The chap I did this for wanted the grain to still show but to get full gloss, it just takes more coats of varnish and sanding 'flat'.

    For a sunburst (did one but no shots) you would use black ink and then at the overlap, red with a tiny bit of black added.

    Ref veneering, I think you can view this forum (guitars.co.uk) without being a member.  I did a 4-step 'How to do it'.  Let me know if you can't get in and I'll copy and paste it:


    It's a great forum, by the way

    Hope this helps
    Andy
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  • nutboxnutbox Frets: 34
    Hi andy thank you,and may I say wow on the sg,that is beautiful and I would be happy if I could get a result like that. Is that calligraphy ink and where do you get that from? Cheers dazz
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  • Andyjr1515Andyjr1515 Frets: 1858
    Hi, Dazz

    The actual ink I used for the two above was:

    image

    I'm pretty sure that standard red Quink would do just as well.  As long as it is 'permanent' ink rather than 'washable', I think the colour-fastness will be as good as any other stain.

    Andy
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  • nutboxnutbox Frets: 34
    Cool,just reading your blog and it seems to me that this is going to become very addictive (don't tell the wife lol). As for prepping the body do I need to just sand the body or is there other steps I need to take? Thanks dazz
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  • Andyjr1515Andyjr1515 Frets: 1858
    nutbox said:
    Cool,just reading your blog and it seems to me that this is going to become very addictive (don't tell the wife lol). As for prepping the body do I need to just sand the body or is there other steps I need to take? Thanks dazz
    Just standard sanding.  It's worth looking at all of the parts of the blog if you haven't already - pretty much covers it all
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  • nutboxnutbox Frets: 34
    Cool thank you.
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  • nutboxnutbox Frets: 34
    Can any body suggest a good place to buy some sheets of flamed maple ,I have look at eBay but can't see anything I like. Cheers dazz
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  • Andyjr1515Andyjr1515 Frets: 1858
    eBay usually has something. There are some direct suppliers - I'll have a look when I get a moment. Also worth trying David Dyke - he's a very reliable supplier of most things luthiers...
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  • nutboxnutbox Frets: 34
    Hi andy, I am bidding on these at the mo http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181374763421?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1431.l2648 Would they be good for the purpose ? Also the body has a small knott on the top would that need treating befor putting on the veneer? Cheers dazz
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  • Andyjr1515Andyjr1515 Frets: 1858
    Hi, Dazz

    Looks OK to me - just check the width of your body, allowing for a little bit of curve round the edges and a bit that you might need to sand straight so there are no gaps in the bookmatch join.  Sycamore should stain very nicely.

    Most of the veneer I have used is 0.6mm but can't see why 1mm would be a problem - the iron probably will need to stay on the veneer a little longer to make sure the glue is hot enough.

    Nothing will need doing to the knot other than sanding it smooth so there are no bumps showing under the veneer.

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  • nutboxnutbox Frets: 34
    I shall do buddy, and at least I ll have room to sand for mistake lol.
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  • nutboxnutbox Frets: 34
    Hi andy just have a question,would the waterproof pva be ok to use for glueing the veneer on? And would I need to grain filler the veneer before I dye it? Cheers dazz
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  • nutboxnutbox Frets: 34
    Here is a pic of the pickups I got from ash at oil city pickups, What a great bloke and a great service and I can't wait to get this build going so I can hear these babies....excited http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk170/nutbox76/Mobile Uploads/20140423_200442_zpstxvdowxy.jpg Cheers dazz
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  • Andyjr1515Andyjr1515 Frets: 1858
    Hi, Dazz


    Can be got at any of the main DIY stores (Homebase / B&Q / ect)  I'm sure others would do OK too but PVA is used for such a lot of things and some are too thin.  This one is easy to get hold of and has never let me down.

    Did you manage to view the 'how to' links?  They cover most of the main things to do.  Just ask if you are not sure 
    :)

    Andy
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  • Andyjr1515Andyjr1515 Frets: 1858
    nutbox said:
     And would I need to grain filler the veneer before I dye it? Cheers dazz
    I tend not to grain fill if it's a tight grained veneer.  If you do, then yes - grain fill first but make sure it is a filler that will take stain and also, once filled, sand down back to the veneer so the dye can absorb properly into it.  What is your final top coat finish going to be?  Varnish or something like tru-oil?
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  • nutboxnutbox Frets: 34
    Yeah that's the one I got but the blue one which is waterproof. Also could you suggest how to round the bodies edges ,I have managed to sand most of it round but at the horns it's hard to get the sander into? Thanks for your help dazz
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  • nutboxnutbox Frets: 34
    I was thinking of going with what you suggested for the top coat because your sg just looks great, I have managed to find the same ink but a rip off price from hobbycraft of £11. Cheers dazz
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  • Andyjr1515Andyjr1515 Frets: 1858
    Hi, Dazz

    I think the blue bottle PVA should work just fine. 
     
    For the SG, I used no grain filler.  I finish sanded it, applied the dye and then applied a 4-5 coats of polyurethane varnish un-thinned.  I let it properly dry  and then wet sanded it with 600 wet n dry to 'flatten' it.  Be very careful not to go through to the wood though, otherwise it will sand off your dye!  
    I then applied a number of coats of varnish, thinned by 30% white spirits, wiped on with a microfibre cloth, lightly wet sanded with 1000 grit wet n dry every 3-4 coats.
    Final wet sandings at 2000 grit wet n dry.  Then final wipe on of varnish, let it dry thoroughly (1-2 weeks), then final polish with brown wrapping paper (yes - really!)

    Ref your body sanding, I would just take the sharp corner off with some sandpaper wrapped round anything to hand (bit of scrap 20mmx20mm strip? I even used an old PC mouse once - it has a flat side and a curved side!

    There are 7 parts to the veneering blog on the link I gave above, all dating back to Jan 2014.  Shout if you can't find them and I'll post the individual links

    Andy   
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  • nutboxnutbox Frets: 34
    Cheers andy I have read all of the a few times now just need to get on now lol So is all the varnishing done with ronseal hardglaze? Cheers dazz
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  • Andyjr1515Andyjr1515 Frets: 1858
    Yes - I used to use truoil but found it would dull off over time. The Ronseal sort of does what it says on the tin! :))
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  • SambostarSambostar Frets: 8382
    Hi, Dazz

    I think the blue bottle PVA should work just fine. 
     
    For the SG, I used no grain filler.  I finish sanded it, applied the dye and then applied a 4-5 coats of polyurethane varnish un-thinned.  I let it properly dry  and then wet sanded it with 600 wet n dry to 'flatten' it.  Be very careful not to go through to the wood though, otherwise it will sand off your dye!  
    I then applied a number of coats of varnish, thinned by 30% white spirits, wiped on with a microfibre cloth, lightly wet sanded with 1000 grit wet n dry every 3-4 coats.
    Final wet sandings at 2000 grit wet n dry.  Then final wipe on of varnish, let it dry thoroughly (1-2 weeks), then final polish with brown wrapping paper (yes - really!)

    Ref your body sanding, I would just take the sharp corner off with some sandpaper wrapped round anything to hand (bit of scrap 20mmx20mm strip? I even used an old PC mouse once - it has a flat side and a curved side!

    There are 7 parts to the veneering blog on the link I gave above, all dating back to Jan 2014.  Shout if you can't find them and I'll post the individual links

    Andy   
    Got to say you must have some proper oldskool sanding talent and patience.  I wish I could paint my Transit like that.  That finish is phenomenal.
    It's the Playbus. We're not in control of ourselves. You're only as dumb as you're trained
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  • Andyjr1515Andyjr1515 Frets: 1858
    Not really patience, @sambostar, it was simply discovering the magic of thinning varnish and wipe on methods with microfiber cloths. Before that I had the patience of a crazed werewolf.
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