Bridges for JM build - i know what you're all thinking :-D

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Right,got the bodies and necks. Necks are 44mm wide at the nut and about 52mm wide at the 12th fret. I'm saying this because i don't know if it will affect what bridge options i can have. The drill holes (done by GSP BASSES) for the bridge posts are, i think, 72mm apart on both bodies. Is this standard? I've asked Staytrem but all he could say was he only makes standard sizes. I've read all the arguments about Mastery/Staytrem, etc. I would guess i'd go with Staytrem but will it fit? 
Might seem a stupid question but, does having a neck that's 44mm wide at the nut mean all the other measurements are going to be affected? 
Am i making sense? 
I'm sure it's obvious from the above that i lack a technical sensibility. 
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Comments

  • DanchiDanchi Frets: 25
    Fret board radius is 9.5''
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  • GagarynGagaryn Frets: 1553
    You're overthinking this. Buy a 9.5" staytrem and stop worrying.
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  • I had a 7.25" Staytrem fitted to my Johnny Marr Jag, One of the best simple mods you can do to any jag or JM, Massive improvement overall, tuning stability and tone seemed better too. The saddles and springs used to fly off the stock bridge, bloody awful it was. 
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  • DanchiDanchi Frets: 25
    edited August 2018
    I'm sure Staytrem is excellent. What i'm trying to establish is, is the width of the neck, and therefore string spacing a vital piece of information when choosing a bridge?
    Does the fact the neck is 44mm at the nut, 52mm at the 12th fret indicate it will be have unusually wide string spacing by the time it reaches the bridge?
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  • DrBobDrBob Frets: 2998
    We’ll ultimately it’s the bridge that forces that issue. The taper of the neck might suggest that something wider at the bridge would follow but if you put a stock bridge on even if you space the strings wider at the nut all that will happen is that you end up with more board outside of the two E strings the further up the board you go.

    I think if you’re going for a wider spacing then Staytrem, amazing as they are might not be the best solution as I think they actually make a point about being narrower spaced than AVRI bridges 
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  • GagarynGagaryn Frets: 1553
    It will be fine. nut is normally 42mm wide on a JM but the e to e distance is usually about 34 to 35mm. 52mm at 12th is normal (usually between 51 and 52mm). Staytrem is 52mm e to e. Your nut defines the string spacing there, you are free to cut the slots wherever you see fit. staytrem defines string spacing at the bridge. so your slightly wider nut could cause each e string to be a hair closer to the fret edge than normal at the 12th but it would be a fraction of a mm. It will be fine!
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  • FunkfingersFunkfingers Frets: 14323
    Danchi said:
    The drill holes (done by GSP BASSES) for the bridge posts are, i think, 72mm apart on both bodies. Is this standard?
    Yes. 72mm centre to centre is correct for a Fender style bridge. (I just measured on a Fender AVRI Jaguar.) The drilled holes are for the metal *thimble* inserts in which the floating vibrato bridge will ride.

    For a Kurt Cobain-inspired Tune-o-Matic bridge installation, the holes should be smaller, closer together and with an offset angle for intonation purposes.
    Be seeing you.
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  • DanchiDanchi Frets: 25
    Thanks, guys. This has all been very helpful and i'm very grateful given all the chat that's usually on here about JM bridges, it must get very boring to read and reply to another one but i did think my query was just a little different from the norm and so wanted to get some advice. Again, thank you!
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  • DanchiDanchi Frets: 25
    Guys, when it comes to tremolo plates, is there much difference between the AVRI USA ones and the Japanese? 

    AVRI ones seem around twice the price.
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  • bbill335bbill335 Frets: 1368
    The American ones are pretty hit and miss and they don't make the arms the right shape. they're sometimes better than cheaper ones but often they're as bad as each other. As long as the nut and bridge are set up properly there's not much to go wrong with even the squier vibratos. 
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  • Danchi said:
    Guys, when it comes to tremolo plates, is there much difference between the AVRI USA ones and the Japanese? 

    AVRI ones seem around twice the price.
    The avri one has thicker metal plates and a more robust spring.
    The Jap ones have a slightly wider or narrower string spacing (i think narrower but its been a while) and the tail piece sits higher meaning your strings clear the plate screws on both e strings.

    Both are infinitely better than the squier system, unless massive improvement has happened in the last few years
    The Bigsby was the first successful design of what is now called a whammy bar or tremolo arm, although vibrato is the technically correct term for the musical effect it produces. In standard usage, tremolo is a rapid fluctuation of the volume of a note, while vibrato is a fluctuation in pitch. The origin of this nonstandard usage of the term by electric guitarists is attributed to Leo Fender, who also used the term “vibrato” to refer to what is really a tremolo effect.
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  • bbill335bbill335 Frets: 1368
    Both are infinitely better than the squier system, unless massive improvement has happened in the last few years
    fwiw, I had an american vibrato on my VMJM and, when it came time to sell, I put the stock one back. The stock one felt slightly less stiff but was functionally adequate, held tuning just as well as the Amercian one.
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  • Cheers, lads.
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