Which wraparound bridge for a LP Jr DC?

damm73

I need to choose a bridge for my GSP LP Jr DC...currently the number one choice is a Graphtech Resomax bridge like the ones that come on Feline Lioncubs. 

They're a bit pricey though at about £120 and I'm wondering if I'd really notice any benefit over a Gotoh 510 UB which costs about £55. Anyone with any experience of either or both of these?  

Or should I be looking at something else entirely? I'm not really bothered about historical accuracy relating to Gibsons. More interested in the best tone and functionality especially with regard to intonation. 

Bonus question...I've currently just about completed a standard cherry red type finish but I have a spare can of shoreline gold rattling around (literally).  Would it be complete and utter heresy to throw a coat of that on and then semi-relic to reveal the cherry finish underneath a la Fender CS colour over sunburst finishes?

TTony

I'm also looking for one for my GSP LP Jr DC.

Just check the height of the Gotoh unit and check the clearance under the strings.

Funkfingers

damm73 said:

I'm not really bothered about historical accuracy relating to Gibsons. More interested in the best tone and functionality especially with regard to intonation. 

There is one respect in which you will need to bother about historical accuracy - bridge stud placement. 

On a genuine doublecut Junior, it is conventional for the studs to be positioned at different distances from the nut. 

On some Gibson solid body guitars with a wrapover bridge, the studs are equidistant from the bridge. In this instance, on Gibson non-adjustable bridges, a preset intonation ridge is cast into the metal. (Usually referred to as the "lightning bolt".) 

My money went on a pre-owned Mojoaxe one-piece bridge. I happen to prefer the sound of a non-adjustable bridge.

skippy76

+1 for the Mojoaxe wrap around.

And I'm a big fan of the relic'd colour of colour with the worn through look. Subject to it all being done "tastefully" in the correct wear areas

damm73

TTony said:

I'm also looking for one for my GSP LP Jr DC.

Just check the height of the Gotoh unit and check the clearance under the strings.

Good point, I've just assumed that these things are height-adjustable - is that not the case?

damm73

Funkfingers said:

damm73 said:

I'm not really bothered about historical accuracy relating to Gibsons. More interested in the best tone and functionality especially with regard to intonation. 

There is one respect in which you will need to bother about historical accuracy - bridge stud placement. 

On a genuine doublecut Junior, it is conventional for the studs to be positioned at different distances from the nut. 

On some Gibson solid body guitars with a wrapover bridge, the studs are equidistant from the bridge. In this instance, on Gibson non-adjustable bridges, a preset intonation ridge is cast into the metal. (Usually referred to as the "lightning bolt".) 

My money went on a pre-owned Mojoaxe one-piece bridge. I happen to prefer the sound of a non-adjustable bridge.

Luckily the bridge post holes are pre-drilled as I would struggle to do those myself with any degree of accuracy.  I have another DC jr (one of @miserneil ;'s) that has a Faber one piece bridge...so I'm keen to experiment with more modern hardware on this guitar. 

Funkfingers

damm73 said:

TTony said:

check the height of the Gotoh unit and check the clearance under the strings.

Good point, I've just assumed that these things are height-adjustable - is that not the case?

All of the wrapover bridges are height adjustable at each end.

The issue that Tony is highlighting relates to the neck pitch angle. This will determine the line that the strings take above the body and, hence, the range of height adjustment needed for any particular bridge design.

Those modern designs with individually adjustable saddles tend to resemble a wrapover bar with Tune-o-Matic saddles set in their tops. This increases the overall height of the bridge/tailpiece. 

If the neck pitch angle errs on the shallow side, the string path may not leave enough clearance above the body for the modern bridge/tailpiece.

TTony

Funkfingers said:

If the neck pitch angle errs on the shallow side, the string path may not leave enough clearance above the body for the modern bridge/tailpiece.

Exactly - Graham's tend to be made for vintage style wrapovers.

damm73

Ah I see. I thought the worry was that there wouldn't be enough string clearance but you're saying that the modern bridge might be too high, not too low. Have to confess that had not occurred to me at all so thanks for pointing it out. 

These are the specs for the Gotoh bridge...I had also measured the height of the P90 pickup cover I'm going to use and that was roughly 13mm. So given that I'd want the strings to clear the pickup by a couple of mm I would hope this is in the right ballpark?  The actual guitar wasn't to hand for me to measure since it was still curing out in the shed but I'll check it tonight. 

TTony

Yup - I've used that model of bridge on a few guitars.  I've got one in my workshop atm, but my GSP is away being sprayed so I  can't check the clearance ...  so be interested in what you find later!

Not a biggy - but if it's a concern for you - I put the cardboard from the strings package under the bridge when re-stringing.  Then the end of the string doesn't scratch the body when you poke the string through the holes in the bridge.

GluedtoMusic

The Gotoh 510UB has about 8mm forward to back travel on the bridge posts to account for the old wraparound tailpiece angle (and then individual saddle adjustment as well).

It is quite low profile as well, not much higher than a TOM, I tried to take a photo, its about 2-3 mm higher (the Schaller is a little lower)

https://imgur.com/a/EIznbWj

TTony

Just checked the website @gluedtomusic -none of the Faber compensated wrap-arounds available?

damm73

String clearance at the bridge is at least 16mm by my reckoning. 

GluedtoMusic

TTony said:

Just checked the website @gluedtomusic -none of the Faber compensated wrap-arounds available?

It's out of stock at the moment, just trying to see if I can get some added to an order that should be arriving end of the week/early next week.

GSPBASSES

The neck angle I use on LPJ's should allow virtually any wrap over bridge to be used. The neck angle is set to clear a dogeared P90. The only bridge you might have issues with is the Gotoh 510UB, not necessarily because of its extra height, but the way the strings are threaded through the bridge. It needs extra high or the strings will dig into the body or you may not be able to thread the strings through if the bridge is to close to the body. 

The position of the posts are set to take a vintage type wrap over bridge, this should suit most wrap over bridges. However, if I know I compensated bridge is going to be used, then generally the post positions will be a slightly different angle (less).

FelineGuitars

I have used a Gotoh on one of mine (as I love the 510UB a lot)

See if you can plan to put the bridge post holes in the perfect place so the grub screws at the back don't need to be used at all , and you get the best post to bridge coupling.

damm73

@FelineGuitars How do you rate the Gotoh compared to the Graptech Resomax bridges? I imagine that tuning stability is better with the graptech string saver saddles but would you say they sound twice as good as the Gotoh?

FelineGuitars

We used the Resomax with the metal saddles. Both are really good. the Resomax has a nice aluminium type zing to it whilst the Gotoh is a bit more heavyweight. Both sound superb and we carry both in stock along with the Tonepros one.

If your bridge pickup is close to the bridge position the Gotoh is easier to string as long as you have a little clearance underneath.

meltedbuzzbox

@miserneil would be worth an ask

damm73

I'd wager Neil would recommend the Faber vintage style but as I'm lucky enough to already own one of his replicas, I'm going for modern tech with this one.  Bridge post positions are like so... will this work with a Resomax @FelineGuitars? ;

FelineGuitars

without knowing the measurements I'd hate to say completely, and if push came to shove I might dowel the existing holes and go from first principles