70's Les Pauls

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A question really for the vintage LP experts out there; is it worth sinking good money into an 'affordable' 70's Les Paul or am I better off sinking the same cash into a '57/'58/'59/'60 reissue? 

I'm not thinking so much about resale or investment but more so in tone and playability. All those 70's classic bands did alright on Norlin era Gibsons. Reason I ask is I quite fancy a birth year LP if I can track a good one down.

 

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  • guitars4youguitars4you Frets: 14186
    tFB Trader
    A recent discussion on FB touched on this

    My conclusion is by all means hunt one down for your DOB - But don't buy the first one you see - Buy the best there is of that year

    My personal thought is that many of the shelf all original 70's LP's  are okay - But can be improved no end with better pick-ups, bridge/tailpiece - pick-ups and wiring loom plus a good refret - Granted you can find a good one that is all original - But I've played/sold a few that would now be classed as players grade, as not all original, but can be bloomin' good guitars with some work

    A good refret is the single biggest way to enhance them regarding how they feel/play - But other upgrades will ensure an all round better performance

    What year do you need
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  • Thanks for the insight Mark - no doubt you have come across a fair few more than most of us! plus I recall you've played the holy grail (Greenie) to which most other LP's are possibly compared. 

    It always worries me when looking at Vintage guitars when you see a mint or nearly mint example. Are these the duds/dogs or just cherished case queens that haven't seen much action? The chances of me being able to play multiple versions of my birth year are scarce so possibly better to head off to the likes of Peach/Coda for a stock comparison of Reissues to see what floats my boat?

     

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  • What year do you need
    Sorry missed this bit - Would be a '74. ATB have a nearly mint Standard, which would have been the first year back to buckers. Looks lovely but haven't played it.

     

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  • guitars4youguitars4you Frets: 14186
    tFB Trader
    Thanks for the insight Mark - no doubt you have come across a fair few more than most of us! plus I recall you've played the holy grail (Greenie) to which most other LP's are possibly compared. 

    It always worries me when looking at Vintage guitars when you see a mint or nearly mint example. Are these the duds/dogs or just cherished case queens that haven't seen much action? The chances of me being able to play multiple versions of my birth year are scarce so possibly better to head off to the likes of Peach/Coda for a stock comparison of Reissues to see what floats my boat?
    nothing wrong with a good R7/8/9 etc - try them and see what inspires you

    Granted you won't see many DOB LP's in the same room at the same time - You won't see that many in many stores today as many are sold via e-bay, gumtree,reverb and FB etc, so unless the guitar is close to you, then you probably won't get to try it first

    Ref a DOB LP then be patient - Try a few guitar shows as many used models at such shows - Take your time and buy the right one at the right time when it suits you - But IMO a good players grade example are fine
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72255
    My personal opinion is that if you can find a *good* 70s one, it's better than any modern one I've played. But there are a large number that aren't that good, even with work. Don't get hung up on the 'sandwich' body, neck volute or anything, it makes no real difference - it's all about the quality and resonance of the wood and the finishing, especially the fingerboards and fretwork.

     The maple neck from around 1975 onwards does change the tone, although it also makes headstock breakage much less likely.

    Be careful of any mid-70s 'Standard' without looking under the pickups (especially neck, it's harder to disguise with refinishing), because there are a large number of routed Deluxes with changed truss rod covers out there... it doesn't make them bad guitars - possible poor routing quality aside - but it does alter the value.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • VoxmanVoxman Frets: 4722
    edited September 2018
    A recent discussion on FB touched on this

    My conclusion is by all means hunt one down for your DOB - But don't buy the first one you see - Buy the best there is of that year

    My personal thought is that many of the shelf all original 70's LP's  are okay - But can be improved no end with better pick-ups, bridge/tailpiece - pick-ups and wiring loom plus a good refret - Granted you can find a good one that is all original - But I've played/sold a few that would now be classed as players grade, as not all original, but can be bloomin' good guitars with some work

    A good refret is the single biggest way to enhance them regarding how they feel/play - But other upgrades will ensure an all round better performance

    What year do you need
    Always one for discussion of course, but it's always seemed a bit illogical to me (and a lot of work & cost) to buy a guitar that isn't right for you with the aim of replacing what's effectively most of the things on there.  And you could still end up spending a lot of time, money & effort (especially a refret) for something that still doesn't totally 'grab you'.  Surely it's better to invest the time & money to try lots in the genre you're looking for and go for the one that feels and sounds right in the first place that grabs your heart and that you 'can't put down'?  It's certainly the way I've tried to go when buying gear - I'm very patient and prepared to walk away irrespective of price if it doesn't 'do it' for me. 

    I'd also suggest not being hung up by year, and to try 80's, 90's, 2000's etc.  My own LP is a 1990 Custom and I must have tried and seen around 8-9 before buying it.  Ridiculously it wasn't the best condition one, but it just felt & sounded right and it's still one of my favourite guitars.  A good friend had a LP Standard and then sold that to buy a Custom because he really liked mine.  He got it for a great price, it's immaculate and a very nice guitar & he loves it - but even he acknowledges that it doesn't sound or feel quite the same as mine, which is a bit heavier, with a slightly thicker neck, and has the tulip Grovers that I much prefer (his has the buttons).   
    I started out with nothing..... but I've still got most of it left (Seasick Steve)
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16658
    ICBM said:
    Don't get hung up on the 'sandwich' body, neck volute or anything, it makes no real difference - it's all about the quality and resonance of the wood and the finishing, especially the fingerboards and fretwork.

    I was going to type the same thing.   None of those features make the guitars bad, btu they are associated with a period where things were clearly more variable and cost cutting was more evident.


    I would add weight and feel to the list of things to check.   If it feels right and sounds right - no reason not to go for I a 70's Gibson.



    You may really struggle to get a firm ID on the date though, so if its important do your research.   Serial numbers on Gibson's are useless for this period,    and pot codes are a rough guide at best   You are reliant on some specific feature changes, and they never happened on Jan 1st.

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  • GagarynGagaryn Frets: 1553
    Agree with what has been said so far. I personally love the "fretless wonder" frets often found on Gibsons from the 70's. I can understand why others don't but my guitar with them plays brilliantly although I struggle to understand how frets so low can work!
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  • I had a 71 routed gold top.
    I wish I still had it.
    It was better ten the 57 RI I had at the same time . I preferred it too my 69 Custom as well.
    There are some great norlins, they are getting a bit expensive now though.
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  • guitars4youguitars4you Frets: 14186
    tFB Trader
    Voxman said:
    A recent discussion on FB touched on this

    My conclusion is by all means hunt one down for your DOB - But don't buy the first one you see - Buy the best there is of that year

    My personal thought is that many of the shelf all original 70's LP's  are okay - But can be improved no end with better pick-ups, bridge/tailpiece - pick-ups and wiring loom plus a good refret - Granted you can find a good one that is all original - But I've played/sold a few that would now be classed as players grade, as not all original, but can be bloomin' good guitars with some work

    A good refret is the single biggest way to enhance them regarding how they feel/play - But other upgrades will ensure an all round better performance

    What year do you need
    Always one for discussion of course, but it's always seemed a bit illogical to me (and a lot of work & cost) to buy a guitar that isn't right for you with the aim of replacing what's effectively most of the things on there.  And you could still end up spending a lot of time, money & effort (especially a refret) for something that still doesn't totally 'grab you'.  Surely it's better to invest the time & money to try lots in the genre you're looking for and go for the one that feels and sounds right in the first place that grabs your heart and that you 'can't put down'?  It's certainly the way I've tried to go when buying gear - I'm very patient and prepared to walk away irrespective of price if it doesn't 'do it' for me. 

    I'd also suggest not being hung up by year, and to try 80's, 90's, 2000's etc.  My own LP is a 1990 Custom and I must have tried and seen around 8-9 before buying it.  Ridiculously it wasn't the best condition one, but it just felt & sounded right and it's still one of my favourite guitars.  A good friend had a LP Standard and then sold that to buy a Custom because he really liked mine.  He got it for a great price, it's immaculate and a very nice guitar & he loves it - but even he acknowledges that it doesn't sound or feel quite the same as mine, which is a bit heavier, with a slightly thicker neck, and has the tulip Grovers that I much prefer (his has the buttons).   
    I didn't mean to buy and then 'edit' accordingly - as you say it will cost a fair bit extra - I meant find one that is already a players grade and converted with the assets that will enrich the playing performance  - Or indeed if you find one at a good price that allows for the 'edits' then so be it
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  • I’ve got a 78 Les Paul Deluxe with the original case which I bought from a session man about 30 years ago. I don’t know why I hang on to it, it weighs a ton and it really doesn’t sound that good, I think that it’s just sentimental. Years ago I had it set up and fret levelled at Chandlers old shop in Kew. What really irritates me is that when I went to buy it he offered me a nice refinished 1958 Les Paul Standard for £450 but I didn’t take it, oh for a time machine.
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