Bridge options for a Korean Epi Les Paul?

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robgilmorobgilmo Frets: 3450
I am looking at Faber bridges but cant work out what fits and what doesnt, I know the ABRM will fit with new posts or a conversion kit, can I get an ABR1 to fit?
A Deuce , a Tele and a cup of tea.
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  • GluedtoMusicGluedtoMusic Frets: 74
    edited September 2018 tFB Trader
    The Faber ABRM will fit if you use the Faber BSWKIT conversion posts, they will screw in to the large 8 mm body bushings in the Epiphone and then the ARBM will fit the conversion posts.
    Supplier of Gotoh, Fender, Gibson, Faber, Schaller, Hipshot, Floyd Rose, TonePros, Graph Tech, Hosco luthier tools and many more.
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  • dbphotodbphoto Frets: 716
    Why not keep it simple and go with a straight swap TonePros?
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  • robgilmorobgilmo Frets: 3450
    Im thinking that an ABR1 will be more stable? My posts are wriggling around in the body inserts, also my made from cheese saddles are worn and I have to raise the bridge up further to compensate.

    https://i.imgur.com/y0HuZnn.jpg


    Wouldn't an ABR1 type mounting mean the studs go deeper into the body thus giving more acoustic transfer through the bridge into the body? Is that how it works?


    Here you can see how far up the posts are unscrewed from the body inserts, this is with a fairly low action.


    https://i.imgur.com/qcJmY8u.jpg

    A Deuce , a Tele and a cup of tea.
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  • GluedtoMusicGluedtoMusic Frets: 74
    edited September 2018 tFB Trader
    robgilmo said:
    Wouldn't an ABR1 type mounting mean the studs go deeper into the body thus giving more acoustic transfer through the bridge into the body? Is that how it works?
    The bridge posts won't neccessarily go in to the body deeper as you still have the body bushings that the conversion posts will need to screw in to, the thing people love about the ABR-1 tone is that the posts screw directly in to the wood, which you won't gain without pulling the body bushings.

    If you did want to pull the body bushings (but not plug and redrill for ABR-1 posts) you can use the Faber E-sert kit which fit the Epiphone style body bushings but have the bridge post built in so the bridge connects direct to the body wood.
    Supplier of Gotoh, Fender, Gibson, Faber, Schaller, Hipshot, Floyd Rose, TonePros, Graph Tech, Hosco luthier tools and many more.
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72313
    robgilmo said:

    Wouldn't an ABR1 type mounting mean the studs go deeper into the body thus giving more acoustic transfer through the bridge into the body? Is that how it works?

    No. And even if it was, it wouldn't necessarily improve tone or sustain since it would be taking energy *away* from the strings.

    robgilmo said:

    Here you can see how far up the posts are unscrewed from the body inserts, this is with a fairly low action.
    I slightly hesitate to say this since I know you've only just bought it, but it looks like there's something badly wrong with the neck angle on that guitar. Something you normally only see on Gibsons... and very rarely anywhere near that much.

    You mentioned in another thread that the neck was dead straight but there was no buzzing. Could there actually be a back-bow? If so, that might explain why you need to have the bridge that high.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • robgilmorobgilmo Frets: 3450
    edited September 2018
    I checked it with a straight edge and it didnt look to have a back bow, the heel looks Ok, no cracks or signs of repair, I'll give it another looking over later and report back.
    A Deuce , a Tele and a cup of tea.
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  • robgilmorobgilmo Frets: 3450
    So guys Ive managed to pick up a Faber ABR1 bridge fairly cheaply from the classifieds and plan to use these conversion posts, 
    http://www.croxguitars.com/Prodpics/Gibson OEM/Specials/conpost1.jpg

    What I was thinking, my bridge is raised by unscrewing the posts from the inserts where as this bridge can be raised but the posts remain screwed fully into the inserts, does that make sense?


    Ive had another look at the neck and it seems that that's just the way it is, no sign of any damage or repair, neck is straight with no back bow, Im pretty sure it left the factory like that but I am by no means experienced in these things. Here are some pics incase you guys can see something I cant. 

    https://i.imgur.com/GcxJbPs.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/J8qK0nV.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/QoDLWnA.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/pvbJnEl.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/H2kYt4B.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/4ON0oTw.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/dwfiMJ7.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/HNf7LtQ.jpg

    A Deuce , a Tele and a cup of tea.
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  • DrHankWangfordSnrDrHankWangfordSnr Frets: 26
    edited September 2018
    Those photos of the neck joint show the neck angle is definitely the reason   for needing the bridge to be so high. the  fret board angle up away from the body as it goes towards the bridge.    I have a korean epi LP and the  fretboard is parallel to the body at the neck joint. [photo to follow]

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  • robgilmorobgilmo Frets: 3450
    That's odd, what year is your guitar?
    A Deuce , a Tele and a cup of tea.
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  • robgilmorobgilmo Frets: 3450
    So I posted this over on mylespaul to see if anyone elses guitars were like this, and from what I gather some are, apparently the body was flat at the neck join and it makes the neck look like its off, my guess is my high bridge is due to worn saddles and no neck relief.  http://www.mylespaul.com/threads/neck-angle.416694/
    I suppose the only way to tell for sure would be to measure the angle of the neck against the back of the body? 
    A Deuce , a Tele and a cup of tea.
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  • DrHankWangfordSnrDrHankWangfordSnr Frets: 26
    edited September 2018
    robgilmo said:
    That's odd, what year is your guitar?
    2004, Unsung Korea.   Guitar number 864 !
    This is a 2012  LP.    

    A recent youtube vid on Dave's world of fu n Stuff  talked about  bridge adjustments and neck angles on les pauls.    I guess the reason for such a large capacity to adjust is to cope with a range of neck angles.
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  • robgilmorobgilmo Frets: 3450
    This one is a 1995, Samick, I wonder if they changed the spec on the body carving?
    A Deuce , a Tele and a cup of tea.
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  • robgilmorobgilmo Frets: 3450
    If you look at your pickup it does look like a thinner surround to mine.
    A Deuce , a Tele and a cup of tea.
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  • DrHankWangfordSnrDrHankWangfordSnr Frets: 26
    edited September 2018
    The pup rings on my epi are replacements.    I refreshed some parts when I bought it  (used) 6 years ago .  Can't remember what the originals were like (other than cracked/broken))
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16668
    robgilmo said:

    I suppose the only way to tell for sure would be to measure the angle of the neck against the back of the body? 

    get a spirit level app for you phone


    I think the neck seems to be sitting a little high.  Note that the neck binding never meets the body binding


    there is not much you can do about it even if it is higher than normal, but it would put me off using skinny posts on the bridge

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  • robgilmorobgilmo Frets: 3450
    If you look at the neck pickup on all these guitars, it sits almost flush with the neck/fretboard, this would indicate the front part of the body is lower rather than the neck being higher?

    I think the best thing to do is get the saddles sorted and see if that helps lower the bridge down a little. As you say there isnt much I can do about it even if it is a problem with the neck.
    A Deuce , a Tele and a cup of tea.
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