Tru oil on neck question

pottolompottolom Frets: 114
edited October 2018 in Making & Modding
I've found a used Classic 60s Lacquer Strat that I'm thinking of buying.

Unfortunately, the previous owner has sanded the back of the neck right down to the bare wood (pic below). I'm not a big fan of that look to be honest, but it's a nice guitar at a good price so I'm still very likely going to go for it.

I actually prefer the feel of finish on a neck, and I would also prefer that the maple is protected from moisture, dirt, etc. So, I was thinking of putting some Tru Oil on. I know I'm never going to get it to blend very well with the lacquer, and that's OK, but:
  • Has anyone done this before and how did yours end up looking (it would be nice to see an example photo). 
  • And are there any pitfalls I need to be aware of? I'm thinking particularly where the lacquer would meet the Tru Oil at the edges.
I know, I could strip the whole neck and go to an all oil finish, but it would be a shame to lose the serial number on the back of the headstock, the Fender decal, etc. Or I could strip the neck and refinish entirely in nitro, but I haven't really got anywhere I could realistically do it (and I've done it once before on another guitar and found it to be a real pain).


0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom

Comments

  • MegiiMegii Frets: 1670
    edited October 2018
    I finished this neck with Tru Oil - just wiped on with a paper kitchen towel. An initial fairly generous coat, wait 24 hours or so, then sanded back with 600 and 1000 grit, then a second very thin coat, again wait a day or so, then just smoothed the surface with very fine wire wool (Liberon 0000). The result is a very nice, slick feeling satin finish.



    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • GizmoGizmo Frets: 1076
    Try Osmo's PolyX tints,they do an Aber and Honey tint that might get you close (although that poly does look well yellow!) & you can get sample packs of it which are more than enough for 3 coats of a neck/fb about £1.50 a pack on evilbay or AZ and it drys/cures way way faster than tru oil.

    here's normal osmo and the white tinted x3 coats of each 

     
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • I love oil finishes. They feel far smoother then lacquer etc. I've done tung and teak oil. WezV has a post about oil finished which I used.
    1.I would put a finish on with cloth, prefably lint free, or some not absorbing, wipe off the excess.
    2.Wait an hour or so apply another coat then wipe excess then leave 24 hours
    3. Sand back with high grade sand paper then apply another coat and wipe off the excess. Leave 24 hours
    Repeat step 3 until happy I did 4 coats and should have left longer but then I buffed it for 20-30 mins. Then I used liberon wax and buffed that in for 20-30 mins. 
    Smooth as silk
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • You may need to sand it all down to bare wood and apply a stain before oiling if you want a different colour. Oil and wax will darken the finish
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • munckeemunckee Frets: 12352
    Gizmo said:
    Try Osmo's PolyX tints,they do an Aber and Honey tint that might get you close (although that poly does look well yellow!) & you can get sample packs of it which are more than enough for 3 coats of a neck/fb about £1.50 a pack on evilbay or AZ and it drys/cures way way faster than tru oil.

    here's normal osmo and the white tinted x3 coats of each 

     
    Have sanded a poly finish off the back of a neck and used these and was very pleased with the finish. 
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
Sign In or Register to comment.