Marshall bluesbreaker

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billandobillando Frets: 26
Iv been using a marshall bluesbreaker attenuated just a little at gigs non miced and sometimes I feel it doesn't cut through that well. I always play on 10. Does anybody else use one and have any suggestions? They seem a bit flabby at full volume. 
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Comments

  • hywelghywelg Frets: 4303
    That's a JTM  though, they do flub out when turned up. Try a solid state rectifier?
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72298
    hywelg said:
    That's a JTM  though, they do flub out when turned up. Try a solid state rectifier?
    Yes, that will tighten up the bass response at full power. The type of rectifier you need is a straightforward plug-in diode rectifier, not a 'valve emulating' one with extra resistance. Easy to tell apart - the type you need should be no larger than the black plastic valve base.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • p90foolp90fool Frets: 31566
    Just back it off a little? I always ran my non-mv Marshalls on 8, just before the onset of mush. 
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  • Modulus_AmpsModulus_Amps Frets: 2574
    tFB Trader
    Roll the bass back as much as you can handle too.
    If you are playing un-mic'd and can't hear yourself, can anyone else hear you?
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  • I do have the bass almost at zero. I found it sounds great on my own but kind of thin with my band. Loud but didn't cut through. 
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  • TTBZTTBZ Frets: 2896
    Try boosting with a treble boost type pedal?
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  • 57Deluxe57Deluxe Frets: 7333
    /\ like a Rangemaster!
    <Vintage BOSS Upgrades>
    __________________________________
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  • NerineNerine Frets: 2110
    Don't use the attenuator??
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  • John_AJohn_A Frets: 3775
    That's just what JTM45's do, there are all sorts of mods to remove flub, trouble is they stop the amp sounding like a JTM.  Backing off the volume a bit and running the bass at zero is the best option, if it's not loud enough just buy another :)
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  • shaunmshaunm Frets: 1598
    John_A said:
    That's just what JTM45's do, there are all sorts of mods to remove flub, trouble is they stop the amp sounding like a JTM.  Backing off the volume a bit and running the bass at zero is the best option, if it's not loud enough just buy another :)
    Or use a Bassman and a Strat. Flub is reduced and high end is there in abundance 
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  • ICBM said:
    hywelg said:
    That's a JTM  though, they do flub out when turned up. Try a solid state rectifier?
    Yes, that will tighten up the bass response at full power. The type of rectifier you need is a straightforward plug-in diode rectifier, not a 'valve emulating' one with extra resistance. Easy to tell apart - the type you need should be no larger than the black plastic valve base.
    Sorry for the highjack but can this trick be used on a PRRI? More my curiosity than an actual problem but I wouldn’t mind trying it.

    Thanks.
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  • DominicDominic Frets: 16089
    57Deluxe said:
    /\ like a Rangemaster!
    exactly this........any treble booster will do but ringmaster type circuit is perfect
    then you can wind the amp back a bit too
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72298
    dannyboy82 said:

    Sorry for the highjack but can this trick be used on a PRRI? More my curiosity than an actual problem but I wouldn’t mind trying it.
    You'll be pushing it on the voltages for the 6V6s - the Princeton runs them very high anyway.

    A good way of getting more headroom and less flub is the 'Stokes mod', but I've never done that on a reissue.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • ICBM said:
    dannyboy82 said:

    Sorry for the highjack but can this trick be used on a PRRI? More my curiosity than an actual problem but I wouldn’t mind trying it.
    You'll be pushing it on the voltages for the 6V6s - the Princeton runs them very high anyway.

    A good way of getting more headroom and less flub is the 'Stokes mod', but I've never done that on a reissue.

    In that case, I'll leave well alone! Thanks for the info.
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  • ICBM said:
    hywelg said:
    That's a JTM  though, they do flub out when turned up. Try a solid state rectifier?
    Yes, that will tighten up the bass response at full power. The type of rectifier you need is a straightforward plug-in diode rectifier, not a 'valve emulating' one with extra resistance. Easy to tell apart - the type you need should be no larger than the black plastic valve base.
    Sorry for the highjack but can this trick be used on a PRRI? More my curiosity than an actual problem but I wouldn’t mind trying it.

    Thanks.
    Best way to firm the bass up in a PRRI, after changing the speaker is to swap the OT out.  The Allen TO20 works well is it is a drop in replacement.

    http://www.allenamps.com/trans.html
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  • John_AJohn_A Frets: 3775
    Shameless plug, I have a solid state plug-in  rectifier in the classifieds

    http://thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/149448/solid-state-plug-in-rectifier-and-bias-probe#latest
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  • Would changing the speakers not help, is it loaded with greenbacks?
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  • John_AJohn_A Frets: 3775

    Would changing the speakers not help, is it loaded with greenbacks?
    Yes, to some extend, but as I said earlier the more you do to it to remove the flub, speaker changes included, the less it sounds like a JTM45.

    I had one and modded the life out of it until it didnt flub, but sounded like a JCM800, which isnt a bad thing, but if you want a JCM800 it's easier to buy one, and if you want a JTM then put up with the flub.

    As pointed out turning the volume down a bit, reducing the bass and using single coils helps, but will sound very different to the thing ran flat out with humbuckers.


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