Official FX Pedal Current and Voltage Requirement thread

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stickyfiddlestickyfiddle Frets: 26963
edited April 2014 in FX
Excuse the convoluted title, I'm trying to catch google spiders to some extent.

A recent thread made me think it might be useful to have a single thread listing every pedal we can get our hands on between us, together with its voltage and current requirements, and whether it has a funny DC jack or whatever. I know Diago have a similar chart on their page, but it's not that comprehensive, so I wonder if we can do better. It'll also help because I can never find the Diago one when I need it, but I come here every day.

Sooo.. post away with details of your pedals and I'll add them to the list at the top of the thread.

(I'll also add a couple of spare posts in case the first one gets too big)

Some information regarding pedal requirements and outputs:

Essentially, the mA rating on the pedal is how much it sucks from the PSU. The PSU rating is how much it can give out to the pedals in total, so as long as the "suck" is smaller than the total amount available it's all good. 

(technically it's not quite this simple, but the analogy works for thinking about pedal power requirements!)

Each line will be of the format: Pedal Name - Current Draw in mA - Voltage requirement (AC or DC) - Notes about power jack

The Assumptions - UAE party band for all your rock & soul desires
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Comments

  • stickyfiddlestickyfiddle Frets: 26963
    spare post for future
    The Assumptions - UAE party band for all your rock & soul desires
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • stickyfiddlestickyfiddle Frets: 26963
    spare post for future
    The Assumptions - UAE party band for all your rock & soul desires
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • stickyfiddlestickyfiddle Frets: 26963
    spare post for future
    The Assumptions - UAE party band for all your rock & soul desires
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • Dave_McDave_Mc Frets: 2355
    http://stinkfoot.se/power-list

    I doubt it has everything, but it's a good start
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72305
    It's also worth bearing in mind that a lot of pedal current requirements are exaggerated by the manufacturer - sometimes drastically. It would be useful to know if the quoted figure is the spec, or an actual measured draw. And be aware that some, like the Boss TU-2, have a very much larger 'on' draw than 'off', as well - so that needs quoting if there is a significant difference.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • xSkarloeyxSkarloey Frets: 2962
    What Dave said.

    Some makes conveniently keep draw data under their hat, viz. Digitech and the Digidelay, which is a very greedy pedal. Stinkfoot was where I was able to confirm my suspicions...
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  • Dave_McDave_Mc Frets: 2355
    edited April 2014
    ICBM said:
    It's also worth bearing in mind that a lot of pedal current requirements are exaggerated by the manufacturer - sometimes drastically. It would be useful to know if the quoted figure is the spec, or an actual measured draw. And be aware that some, like the Boss TU-2, have a very much larger 'on' draw than 'off', as well - so that needs quoting if there is a significant difference.
    Yeah- a lot of the time they want you to use their adaptor.

    I think stinkfoot (at least in some places) points out if it's stated or measured, and also tells you how to measure it (if you can be bothered).
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  • DannyPDannyP Frets: 1676
    You can run some drives like Hotcakes and OCDs at 18v right? Does that mean you can always do the same on clones of those such as the Poodle Chilly Biscuit or the Joyo Ultimate Drive?
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72305
    Not without checking the rating of all the internal components. It's quite possible the clone could have lower voltage rated components substituted if the maker doesn't think it's worth spending a few pence more on the higher voltage versions when they're not necessary at 9V. While a 16V cap *probably* won't blow up at exactly 18V, a poorly regulated supply is going to increase the risk seriously.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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