Hi everybody. Bought amp off ebay before discovering this site...... Its shifting a bit in volume,up and down and the distortion when the gain is up is worse than a £25 solid state amp.Tried changing the output valves(very tired looking JJ el 84s) with NOS yellow (60's) teslas .That improved the sound a little but also added some hum.Then I looked at the valves and the 84's were gently redplating. I'm a total newbie with el 84s . Could it be caused by- mismatched valves? one or more of the ecc83's ? pin 1 to 2 NOS connection issues? duff new valves? "autobiasing"????system"?
Chinese/Essexmarshgremlins? The geological looking JJs dont redplate. Is it worth carrying on with this amp,can they sound good. This is my first post on the fretboard,I know I've dropped one, please be gentle with me, any help massively appreciated, thanks in advance.
When logic and proportion
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Sorry!
I had a quick look on Ebay and saw that at least you didn't pay too much for it - it's probably worth having it looked at by a tech. It's unlikely you'll be able to return it since it was listed with that fault.
And whatever you do, don't let the seller talk you into taking the Failing Angel instead...
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
The downside to the amp, is the chassis is a pig to get out, as the speaker and baffle have to be unscrewed and moved down to clear the meter & scooped front plate but that means first removing the reverb tank to enable the baffle to slide down far enough! The problem could be one of the pre-amp valves is losing emissions after it has got hot for a while, so worth doing a one at a time swap if you have a good ECC83. Failing that off to the tech I'm afraid. where are you based?
Edit: Forgot to mention they were actually designed and built in the UK and have fairly decent transformers, better than modern Marshalls IMHO.
The first one is the initial gain stage for both channels, the second is the second gain stage for both channels, the third is the third and fourth stages for the overdrive channel only, and the fourth is the phase inverter.
No, completely myth. It doesn't need to be balanced, and the valve most prone to microphonics is V1. The phase inverter is the one that matters *least* for microphonics and noise.
Try the Mullards anywhere, especially V1.
Yes, they're very poorly designed - and as DJH said, an utter pain to work on since that extends to the physical build as well!
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
If you get hold of a Peacemaker 20 schematic off the web (or a 40/60, as the front end is pretty much the same), V1 nearest the input jack, triode halves A/B are a common input stage for both channels.
V3B is channel one tone stack driver, V3A is channel two tone stack driver. V5 A/B are the extra gain stage on channel two which also provides additional boost (channel three) - that does sound awful BTW.
The reverb and effects loop are IC driven (TL072s). V7 is the PI, and no don't worry about it having matching halves, its just not necessary.
I don't know any fellow amp techs in your area I'm afraid, I'm based in Nottinghamshire, which is a bit of a trek!
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein