Mustang bridge onto a Squier Mascis JM

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Is it just a case of unscrewing the tuneamatic bridge that's currently there and then dropping in the mustang bridge into the existing bushings or am I missing something?
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 71959
    It's won't rock properly even if the posts go down the inserts. It also may not height-adjust if the inserts don't have closed bottoms because the height screws will push themselves into the wood. You need the correct 'thimbles'.

    I would probably go for a roller bridge which fits tune-o-matic posts if you haven't got the Mustang one already.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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  • gusman2xgusman2x Frets: 919

    You'll need to change the thimbles. You can get some from Staytrem, think they're on his ebay shop, and cost about £7.


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  • By 'thimbles' you mean the part that's recessed into the guitar into which the ToM posts screw?

    If so, are these difficult to remove?

    I already have the mustang bridge (present from mini gc1).
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  • gusman2xgusman2x Frets: 919
    @guitarcookie1 Yes, as the little metal cups. The replacement thimbles from staytrem include a screw for removal. You just pop it in the current thimble (after removing the TOM/AOM posts) and turn it with a screwdriver. This lifts the thimbles out. What mustang bridge do you have? Likely you'll have a mis-match of radius. Jmjm is 9.5, and most bridges are 7.25
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  • New thimbles received, anyone have any tips for removing the old ToM ones (no removal screw received with the replacement ones)?


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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 71959
    New thimbles received, anyone have any tips for removing the old ToM ones (no removal screw received with the replacement ones)?
    Screw in the post, then use a claw hammer with a piece of soft wood under it to protect the body and *very carefully* lever it out, keeping a good look out for finish lifting.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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  • ICBM said:
    New thimbles received, anyone have any tips for removing the old ToM ones (no removal screw received with the replacement ones)?
    Screw in the post, then use a claw hammer with a piece of soft wood under it to protect the body and *very carefully* lever it out, keeping a good look out for finish lifting.
    Ok, thank you :)

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  • impmannimpmann Frets: 12645
    Woah there....

    Unless you bought the correct conversion thimbles from Staytrem they will not just 'fit'. The outside diameter of the T-O-M anchors is bigger than that of the standard Fender thimbles.

    If you buy the conversion thimbles, these include a bolt used to remove the T-O-M anchors (wind the bolt in til it hits the bottom of the hole then crank it some more to lift the anchor out - helps if you warm the anchor with a soldering iron before hand to soften any glue used to retain it.

    The Staytrem conversion thimbles then are a tight fit into the anchor holes. 

    I've done this conversion myself in the past (changed it back to a roller bridge - its better with the closer-mounted trem IMHO) so if you get stuck, give me a shout.
    Never Ever Bloody Anything Ever.

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  • impmann said:
    Woah there....

    Unless you bought the correct conversion thimbles from Staytrem they will not just 'fit'. The outside diameter of the T-O-M anchors is bigger than that of the standard Fender thimbles.

    If you buy the conversion thimbles, these include a bolt used to remove the T-O-M anchors (wind the bolt in til it hits the bottom of the hole then crank it some more to lift the anchor out - helps if you warm the anchor with a soldering iron before hand to soften any glue used to retain it.

    The Staytrem conversion thimbles then are a tight fit into the anchor holes. 

    I've done this conversion myself in the past (changed it back to a roller bridge - its better with the closer-mounted trem IMHO) so if you get stuck, give me a shout.
    Ok cheers :)

    I bought the correct sized thimbles from Staytrem (12mm) but they did not come with a bolt..


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  • impmannimpmann Frets: 12645
    Contact them - it's probably an omission
    Never Ever Bloody Anything Ever.

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  • impmann said:
    Contact them - it's probably an omission
    They're not sent as standard anymore due to ham-fisted numpties blaming the bolt for wrecking their guitar's finish...

    They will send you one if you request it separately :)


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  • impmannimpmann Frets: 12645
    Ah! That I can well believe... :-)
    Never Ever Bloody Anything Ever.

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  • meltedbuzzboxmeltedbuzzbox Frets: 10337
    A bit late here but I would recommend the wilkinson roller bridge. 
    It an easier/cheaper upgrade and probably the best suited upgrade for a closer trem placement. 

    All My CP Jag use the roller bridge. In fact anything with a TOM gets a roller bridge in my house :-)
    The Bigsby was the first successful design of what is now called a whammy bar or tremolo arm, although vibrato is the technically correct term for the musical effect it produces. In standard usage, tremolo is a rapid fluctuation of the volume of a note, while vibrato is a fluctuation in pitch. The origin of this nonstandard usage of the term by electric guitarists is attributed to Leo Fender, who also used the term “vibrato” to refer to what is really a tremolo effect.
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  • CorvusCorvus Frets: 2924
    tFB Trader

    Easy & safe way to remove bushings is use a bolt, a washer and a socket from yr toolkit. Or similar random parts from the "might be useful one day" stash -

    http://www.alleykat.co.uk/images/stuff/lp/pulled_bush_2.jpg 

    And to insert then, wind in a bolt part-way and tap home with a hammer.

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  • GavRichListGavRichList Frets: 7143
    A bit late here but I would recommend the wilkinson roller bridge. 
    It an easier/cheaper upgrade and probably the best suited upgrade for a closer trem placement. 

    All My CP Jag use the roller bridge. In fact anything with a TOM gets a roller bridge in my house :-)

    Second this; I have one fitted on my Squier J Mascis, and couple that with shimming the neck and you've got yourself one hell of a good'un. Bright as you like.
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  • Mustang bridge all fitted; took about twenty minutes including new strings & setting intonation...

    The guitar sounds "bigger" and tuning stability is much improved. Can't say I really notice the mid-matched radius though. 


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  • GavHaus said:

    Second this; I have one fitted on my Squier J Mascis, and couple that with shimming the neck and you've got yourself one hell of a good'un. Bright as you like.

    I've been thinking about replacing the Gotoh TOM that I put on my JM Jazzmaster with a Wilkinson Roller bridge.

    Sorry if I'm being a bit dim here but I think the posts on the JM are 6mm but the holes on the Wilkinson are 4mm. Did you switch the posts too or am I getting it all wrong?

    Link to my trading feedback
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  • impmannimpmann Frets: 12645
    I used the posts that came with the Wilkinson
    Never Ever Bloody Anything Ever.

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  • meltedbuzzboxmeltedbuzzbox Frets: 10337
    GavHaus said:

    Second this; I have one fitted on my Squier J Mascis, and couple that with shimming the neck and you've got yourself one hell of a good'un. Bright as you like.

    I've been thinking about replacing the Gotoh TOM that I put on my JM Jazzmaster with a Wilkinson Roller bridge.

    Sorry if I'm being a bit dim here but I think the posts on the JM are 6mm but the holes on the Wilkinson are 4mm. Did you switch the posts too or am I getting it all wrong?

    Which Marcus jazzmaster do you have? White or purple?
    The Bigsby was the first successful design of what is now called a whammy bar or tremolo arm, although vibrato is the technically correct term for the musical effect it produces. In standard usage, tremolo is a rapid fluctuation of the volume of a note, while vibrato is a fluctuation in pitch. The origin of this nonstandard usage of the term by electric guitarists is attributed to Leo Fender, who also used the term “vibrato” to refer to what is really a tremolo effect.
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  • meltedbuzzboxmeltedbuzzbox Frets: 10337
    Bah feckin tablet. Mascis***
    The Bigsby was the first successful design of what is now called a whammy bar or tremolo arm, although vibrato is the technically correct term for the musical effect it produces. In standard usage, tremolo is a rapid fluctuation of the volume of a note, while vibrato is a fluctuation in pitch. The origin of this nonstandard usage of the term by electric guitarists is attributed to Leo Fender, who also used the term “vibrato” to refer to what is really a tremolo effect.
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