Stainless fretwire question

What's Hot
CorvusCorvus Frets: 2924

Haven't used it before, bought some of this here from Allparts. Thing is it's soft, malleable, easily bends & forms etc. Not springy at all. I've not seen a stainless steel like this...

Question for anyone who's used it - is this "normal"? I expected it to be hard & with a certain spring to it.

0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom

Comments

  • WezVWezV Frets: 16543
    Ask allparts.  I have never ordered any from them, but it would be an easy mistake for them to make

    SS should not be described like that.  You can bend it by hand, but not comfortably.  Do you have some normal fretwire to compare to? it should also look a different colour
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • CorvusCorvus Frets: 2924
    tFB Trader

    I haven't done any fretting for a long time but I do handle 'normal' s/s quite a bit in rod & sheet form. It does sound like the wrong stuff, your description is what I'd expected and this isn't like that. But it is bright/whiteish colour, no yellowish/greenish tint.

    Shapes fairly plasticene-ish and files far easier than expected. I've asked AP, hopefully they can trace it back to a cockup, or shed some light on it anyways. Thanks Wez.

    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • WezVWezV Frets: 16543
    Then I guess it could also be down to your expectations of SS.   I don't do much metalwork other than fret stuff and the odd small guitar parts in relatively soft aluminium or brass. so my description comes from that point and yours obviously comes from the other end of the spectrum   

    I would imagine the SS used for frets needs to be a bit softer than other grades of SS for different uses. afterall, its still designed for the user to be able to bend, cut, file and polish it with relatively simple tools (albeit a bit sharper and harder wearing than the tools used for NS)

    If in doubt I recommend jescar fretwire, both for NS and SS - never tried their evo gold though.
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • CorvusCorvus Frets: 2924
    tFB Trader

    You could be right, I could really do with seeing another sample. I do find it hard to believe this is s/s the way it bends with no springback and marks up so easily. Gentle kiss with a nail file marked it up. But it could be a certain grade and annealed state. See what AP have to say. I might buy some from elsewhere so's I can have a comparison too.

    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • GassageGassage Frets: 30826
    edited September 2014
    There are three basic types of stainless steel.

    Austenitic, Martenistic and Ferritic. The former is ostensibly non-magnetic, the middle takes sharpening well and the latter magnetic. (there's also graphitic and cementic but we can ignore those)

    Generally, 18/8 stainlesses (304, 321, 316 being the main grades) are used for most things- these are all austenitics.

    Ferritics are generally used for deep drawing and pressing- think sinks and stuff (generally grades 430)

    Martensitic (410) are used for blades as they remain keen.

    I have no clue which one is used for fret wire- 304 and 316 can be extruded and the bright annealed, so I guess them.

    One thing you guys will find out- stainless work hardens like no other - drill a block of it and you'll get so far then just keep breaking drill bits as the heat causes the stainless to work harden. Also, like on like when used as a thread, it creeps and binds like a mofo too.

    316 is generally the best all round corrosion resistant grade. It has molybdemum as an addative to make it easy to work with too. 321 has titanium inclusions and is basically useless visually as it has orange streaks when finished. For some reason in the 80's British Rail specified 321 for all their locomotive door handles and wondered why they gradually became more and more orange....

    Shiney stainless is generally 'cold finished', non-shiney is hot finised and very dull to look at.

    To make it springy, you need to press it first, normally in slit strip coil form.


    *An Official Foo-Approved guitarist since Sept 2023.

    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 1reaction image Wisdom
  • CorvusCorvus Frets: 2924
    tFB Trader

    I'm reasonably familiar with 304 & 316 from cars & bikes and making metal flower sculptures and things. By springy I mean springback when bending as opposed to yer actual springs. Where this is like soft ally in that it just bends where it's told, complies with no fight. It could be annealed to this degree but it's just unlike other s/s I've used, took me by surprise. And by how very easy it was to mark. I'll buy another bit just for comparison I think. Cheers all.

    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
  • CorvusCorvus Frets: 2924
    tFB Trader
    It's been a while but Allparts sent me some more wire a week back. While talking to the Sates which did take a bit of time they kept up the comms, so all good stuff really. The new wire is about what I'd expected, feck nose what the first lot was but job jobbed thanks to Allparts, and thanks for the posts chaps.
    0reaction image LOL 0reaction image Wow! 0reaction image Wisdom
Sign In or Register to comment.