School me in Gibson historic Les Paul's

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Due to having no interest in reissues, I've never got to grips with the whole Gibson historic, VOS Gibson thing.

I gather over the years different models have been manufactured that set out to mimic the originals in some shape or form. However, what are the most desirable models and why ?

 


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  • 250+ positive trading feedbacks: http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/57830/
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  • I'll make a cuppa, and charge up the ipad.


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  • I think that will give you all you need to know. And if you want to see a load of NGD and pictures, check this one out...

    http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/historics-reissues/
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  • SkippedSkipped Frets: 2371
    21 years now. I think the quality has been high over the whole period.

    Best cheap option IMO: Pre 2013 R7 OR R8.

    Best Option IMO: 2013/2014. Plenty of used ones now appearing. Endless GAS can be a curse sometimes, but it sure does throw up a lot of buying opportunities. A recent R0 with the "just right" neck shape and modest flame for plaintop money would be a killer buy.

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  • A lot is written on forums about how poor Gibson's quality is these days - and often with considerable justification when it comes to production guitars.

    The Historics are a very different matter. A friend of mine has an R0 (a 1960 reissue) and it is superb. Really beautifully put together, plays really well, etc.
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  • BogwhoppitBogwhoppit Frets: 2754
    edited November 2014

    OK, that's muddied the waters lol

    Lets go for the concise approach.

    If you had to have one (used 50s or 60s), but wanted some assurance that if you didn't get on with it, you stood a reasonable chance of getting back a fair proportion of your outlay. What are the desirable years / models.

     


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  • RaymondLinRaymondLin Frets: 11860
    Makes you wonder why they don't put the same attention of QC to the regular Standard, since the Historics themselves are an imitation of the standard of the old.
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  • BasherBasher Frets: 1204
    I'd guess that there's a degree of variety in all years. I'd have thought you could buy and sell an R7/8 with no issues without losing anything much.

    The most desirable seem to be the years where they had Brazilian rosewood fingerboards. They also command a high price for this reason.

    Two things that do seem to affect desirability are the weight and presence of the COA (Certificate of Authenticity). I'd guess that a sub 9lb R7 would tend to sell for more than a 10lb R8, despite it being a slightly cheaper model. Some won't touch a Historic without a COA, others don't see it as a problem. 

    Don't discount the pre-Historics either. I've only played two but they were amongst the best guitars I've ever played.

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  • Philly_QPhilly_Q Frets: 22739
    Watch out for the 2012 models with "bi-laminated" rosewood boards.  Not a good move by Gibson.

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  • jd0272jd0272 Frets: 3867


    Don't discount the pre-Historics either. I've only played two but they were amongst the best guitars I've ever played.




    ;)
    "You do all the 'widdly widdly' bits, and just leave the hard stuff to me."
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  • The significant feature I'm looking for is resale value.  If I acquire a decent used one for a fair price, and find we're not compatible; I'd like - if possible - to recoup 90% of my outlay : market forces pending. To achieve that, I'm making the assumption I need to look at desirability as well as what personally suits me.

     


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  • underdogunderdog Frets: 8334
    jd0272;407710" said:
    Don't discount the pre-Historics either. I've only played two but they were amongst the best guitars I've ever played.
















    http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd462/jd0272/Gitfiddles/R6019.jpg



    ;)
    wow that's amazing
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  • jd0272jd0272 Frets: 3867
    @underdog never use it mate, well, only for the odd slide track, Just Got Paid etc. I'm Single coil/P90/TV Jones of late. Been on fire, refinished, headstock break, allsorts. Worth 10 pence. Cracking 1993 R6 (1960 Reissue) tho! One of the kids will get it.

    Neck's too slim for me anyhoo.
    "You do all the 'widdly widdly' bits, and just leave the hard stuff to me."
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  • crunchmancrunchman Frets: 11446


    The significant feature I'm looking for is resale value.  If I acquire a decent used one for a fair price, and find we're not compatible; I'd like - if possible - to recoup 90% of my outlay : market forces pending. To achieve that, I'm making the assumption I need to look at desirability as well as what personally suits me.

     

    If you buy a used one you shouldn't lose a lot on it.  If it's heavier or doesn't have the certificate then you should be able to get it for a couple of hundred less in the first place.
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  • underdogunderdog Frets: 8334
    edited November 2014
    jd0272;407730" said:
    @underdog never use it mate, well, only for the odd slide track, Just Got Paid etc. I'm Single coil/P90/TV Jones of late. Been on fire, refinished, headstock break, allsorts. Worth 10 pence. Cracking 1993 R6 (1960 Reissue) tho! One of the kids will get it.

    Neck's too slim for me anyhoo.
    Would you like to adopt a middle-aged Welsh man :D

    If it plays like it looks then I'd still pay for it.

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  • jd0272jd0272 Frets: 3867
    underdog said:
    jd0272;407730" said:
    @underdog never use it mate, well, only for the odd slide track, Just Got Paid etc. I'm Single coil/P90/TV Jones of late. Been on fire, refinished, headstock break, allsorts. Worth 10 pence. Cracking 1993 R6 (1960 Reissue) tho! One of the kids will get it.

    Neck's too slim for me anyhoo.
    Would you like to adopt a middle-aged Welsh man :D

    You've been LOL's accordingly!!!  :)
    "You do all the 'widdly widdly' bits, and just leave the hard stuff to me."
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  • The used prices of R9's are akin to those hard rubber bouncing balls, they veer off in every direction just when you're about to catch it. Ebay doesn't appear to offer any pattern as many seem to be sold prior to the listing coming to an end.

     

     


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