Frequent string breakage - any suggestions?

I'm having serious problems with string breakage on an old MIK Avalon dread. Always the G and D strings, always at the bridge, and always within a few weeks of fitting (only a few playing hours). The guitar is only played once or twice a week or less and stored in a Hiscox hard case the rest of the time. 

The obvious culprit would be the bridge (stock plastic compensated saddle), but I can't feel any rough spots- should I be able to?

Other than that, what else could be causing it? I use a very heavy pick (V-Picks 2.75mm) and a fairly heavy right hand, but I've been playing like that for years with no problems except when strings were visibly worn out already. I've been using Fender Dura-Tone strings, but I think I switched to those before I started having problems.

Do I just start a process of elimination until I find something that makes a difference, or is there a better way to get to the root of the problem?

How easy is it for a layman with no specialist luthierin' tools to fit a new bridge saddle on an acoustic and come out with a playable instrument?

Don't talk politics and don't throw stones. Your royal highnesses.

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Comments

  • I had the exact same problem on my Breedlove a few years ago. I ended up filing the bridge slightly where the G string went over it to create a tiny groove for it. That seemed to make a big difference. Just be careful and do very small file movement as you don't want to over do it.

    It's worth looking at strings too. I love Elixirs and still use them on my Breedlove as it's now retired to home/recording use. But, my Faith, which I play at church twice every Sunday I use D'Addario strings. They have a slightly different tone, but I have found they last longer - 6 weeks rather than 4 weeks.


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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 71865
    Usually plastic saddles do get indented by the strings and this can cause a tiny sharp spot.

    It's very unlikely you need a new bridge saddle. All it should need is polishing with a small piece of fine sandpaper (somewhere between 300 and about 1000 grit should be OK) to make sure it's completely smooth.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Just because I don't care, doesn't mean I don't understand." - Homer Simpson

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  • Marvellous. I'll dig out my finest sandpaper. Is there any benefit to switching the bridge for a "better" bone or tusq one? Tuning stability is fine, tone is too. Or would that be a waste of time unless I replaced the nut too?

    Don't talk politics and don't throw stones. Your royal highnesses.

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  • MattFGBIMattFGBI Frets: 1601
    edited December 2014
    If the tone is fine then stick with what you have until it either wears out or you feel it could be better. Bone saddles do make a difference but that will vary from guitar to guitar.  You often need a few changes (nut, saddle, bridge pins etc) for it to add up to a real difference. 

    As ICBM says, it's probably just a rough edge and once that's gone you should be good for a while. 
    This is not an official response. 

    contactemea@fender.com 


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  • OK. Replaced the most recent breakage (G) during the week (left the rest as only just re-strung the thing a week or two ago and barely put any wear on the strings yet), sanded down the bridge saddle with 600 grit paper until I couldn't even feel the tiny dents I was sure were too small to do any damage to anything.

    Guitar survived its outing on Sunday morning without incident. We continue...

    Don't talk politics and don't throw stones. Your royal highnesses.

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