stripping guitars

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JetfireJetfire Frets: 1687
edited January 2015 in Making & Modding
So, I'm tempted to go for a wudtone kit but I would need to strip my old guitar first. Could I use paint stripper or is sanding etc the way to go?
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  • thermionicthermionic Frets: 9498
    We need to know what the guitar is...
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  • JetfireJetfire Frets: 1687
    Ah, an Ibanez rg :)
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  • TTonyTTony Frets: 27343
    I'm not sure that you could strip it clean enough for Wudtone to work well.  Wudtone works best on completely "clean" wood.
    Having trouble posting images here?  This might help.
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  • TTonyTTony Frets: 27343
    You might get more advice in the M&M section ...
    Having trouble posting images here?  This might help.
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  • heat gun and plastic scraper.
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  • JetfireJetfire Frets: 1687
    Hmm... I see your point about wudtone, just one of the ideas atm
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  • DrBobDrBob Frets: 2998
    TBH if your RG is a pretty standard one it would probably be easier to get a new unfinished body from Guitarbuild & start with that but that does of course push the cost right up
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  • MayneheadMaynehead Frets: 1782
    Sanding? More like a hammer and chisel job. The poly finishes are so thick it'll take you forever to get through it with sanding.

    Like Zenzeypher suggested, you'll need a heat gun and scraper. Soften the finish with the heatgun, get underneath it with a scraper (e.g. from the strap button hole) and basically peel it all off.
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  • Maynehead said:
    Sanding? More like a hammer and chisel job. The poly finishes are so thick it'll take you forever to get through it with sanding.

    Like Zenzeypher suggested, you'll need a heat gun and scraper. Soften the finish with the heatgun, get underneath it with a scraper (e.g. from the strap button hole) and basically peel it all off.
    A hair dryer would be a safer way to go about it. 

    If it is an RG the wood will be very plain (most likely), A wudtone kit might not get the best out of basswood. 

    @Jetfire why do you want to strip it? Is it damaged or is it more for funsies?
    The Bigsby was the first successful design of what is now called a whammy bar or tremolo arm, although vibrato is the technically correct term for the musical effect it produces. In standard usage, tremolo is a rapid fluctuation of the volume of a note, while vibrato is a fluctuation in pitch. The origin of this nonstandard usage of the term by electric guitarists is attributed to Leo Fender, who also used the term “vibrato” to refer to what is really a tremolo effect.
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  • JalapenoJalapeno Frets: 6378
    I recall, and @TTony confirmed it last week that it is the grain filler/undercoat that gets into the wood that makes Wudtone difficult for re-finishing.
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  • JetfireJetfire Frets: 1687

    @meltedbuzzbox Yeah, its got a bit of a chip on it and Ive always fancied refinishing one. Its only a cheapo RGR321 which is will be a pretty tidy guitar for downtuned riffing. My other thought would be a nice veneer on the front of it..

    Surely if you take off the sealant it should be fine for wudtone?

    My other option is my mates a car sprayer so he could spray it up for me. Ive used a guitar that a car paint sprayer did before and they used car clear laquer over the paint rather than stuff used on guitars.. that was horrible.

     

     

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  • axisusaxisus Frets: 28280
    Lock it in a room with the Stripper theme on loop and the guitar strips itself.
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  • JalapenoJalapeno Frets: 6378
    Random Internet quote "As for Wudtone, I finished a guitar with their stuff a while back. It does work very nicely but you have got to make sure you have gotten right down to the very bare wood. Even just a thin layer of sealer will repel that stuff"

    There's loads of such quotes, when they say back to the bare wood, they mean it.
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  • MayneheadMaynehead Frets: 1782
    Maynehead said:
    Sanding? More like a hammer and chisel job. The poly finishes are so thick it'll take you forever to get through it with sanding.

    Like Zenzeypher suggested, you'll need a heat gun and scraper. Soften the finish with the heatgun, get underneath it with a scraper (e.g. from the strap button hole) and basically peel it all off.
    A hair dryer would be a safer way to go about it. 
    Not if your wife finds out....  :-O
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  • JetfireJetfire Frets: 1687
    hmm....veneer could be the way forward there!
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16542
    edited January 2015
    Jetfire said:

     

    Surely if you take off the sealant it should be fine for wudtone?

     

     


    the problem is the depth that a finish/ sealer can penetrate.  In reality its usually not too far, but it is inconsistent between different areas of the wood... end grain can soak up a hell of a lot whereas its usually pretty easy to strip a top ready for something like this.  peoples sanding is also rarely consistent over the whole guitar.  spots get missed

     

    It can look like its all gone, then you go to apply  the finish (same with a direct stain) and notice its not taking properly in some patches.   back to sanding and try again

     

    depends what you are after - plenty of other finishes can be done on a guitar in this state.  Wudtone that builds up to a solid colour may be more suitable, as will a direct stain and oil/wax.  or a few thin coats of lacquer from a rattlecan

     

    A direct stain works better for me because a bottle of stain goes a lot further than a bottle of wudtone... the stain may not take perfectly on the first go, but at least I know I have enough to re-sand and try again.  also with this technique I can wet the grain with either water or spirits* before the stain touches the wood.  This will show any areas that need more sanding, be it more sealer to remove or previous grit sanding scratches to sand out, they all become more obvious once wet.   wetting the grain with water before sanding back  also helps get a smoother finish too -   but this is apparently all a big no-no for wudtone

     

    *wipe with a damp cloth rather than spray with a hosepipe

     

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  • Andyjr1515Andyjr1515 Frets: 3127
    As above, really (especially the advice from @WezV ).

    In summary:
    • Certainly heatgun and decent scraper to get the poly off.  Sanding or chemicals is the road to frustration-fuelled insanity.  Care, though, not to burn the wood - scorch marks are difficult to sand out.
    • Good progressive sanding.  Use @WezV's tip of wiping with a damp cloth to ensure no residual finish is going to prevent the stain being absorbed
    • Stain (Commercial types or I generally use fountain pen ink...dirt cheap and loads and loads of colours) or veneer (which I do a lot of...lots of tips and tricks involved here but plenty of threads around to help) which can be either stained or left natural. 
    • Loads of options for finishing - wax, oil, Tru-oil, lacquer, poly spray, nitro spray...
    I've got some threads relating to stripping, staining, veneering and finishing I can post if you are interested :)

    Andy
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  • JetfireJetfire Frets: 1687
    @andyjr1515 yes please mate, that be great!
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  • NPPNPP Frets: 236
    I tried sanding and a hairdryer, didn't work. Heat gun and scraper then did the trick. Heat guns are fairly cheap, mine cost about 20 pounds, but if you are near Sheffield, you can borrow mine for a few weeks. 

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  • DrBobDrBob Frets: 2998
    @Jetfire I'm coming to see my sister in February. I can bring my heat gun if you like love ?
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