What's the best thing for removing Danish Oil?

ThePrettyDamned

WezV;79031" said:

only other thing I can think with the green one is that maybe the factory that made it soaked the maple ply in something before it was pressed to shape.   anyway, i will be stripping and spraying it soon

I was literally about to ask if it was ply or a solid maple thing (not even sure if that exists in that style...). Perhaps that's the answer.

Fwiw, I love how the colour took to the neck. Actually, I kinda like the whole thing, but you'd need to be going for that look to like it.

Are you still going green with the respray?

WezV

yeah, probably more like a british racing green than the emerald.  not sure if i would prefer solid or trans yet

ThePrettyDamned

Nice. If emerald, trans or burst, if brg, solid. And gold hardware - so it's just like a Jaaaaagg.

andypwudtone

WezV said:

So what does this tell me:

1) There must have been some contamination on the maple 335 that stopped wudtone colour taking. 

2) My usual methods for removing contamination (tried on the black guitar) won't work with wudtone, but will be fine for other types of finish.

3) Wudtone really does look great on swamp ash and I may come back to it for that

Hi Wez, well thank you for going to all that effort and sorry those guitars haven't worked out as you had hoped. With a single coat ( even if it wasn't deep colour coat)  the coloration on the bare/porous samples of ash, alder, maple appear to be about right.   

I think we just need to agree to disagree on one key point. I think it is an important point for Mudslide , indeed anyone who doesn't want to limit their options ( particularly with colour)  when refinishing. Your method for removing contamination ( ie a good rub down with thinners ), I don't actually agree removes contamination. I think it just thins it, embeds in into the wood. This process fundamentally changes the chemical, condition of the surface of wood. It depends on the thinners used, but in most cases it creates a petroleum barrier to any fine particle colour system, whether that is colron wood dye, colortone or the wudtone deep colour coats etc. 

I labour this point because if mudslide or anyone follows that advice they will indeed experience the same problems you are having and also limit their options when it comes to colours of their choice.

I don't think you need to use any liquid thinners of any kind on guitar wood, with one exception, and that is acetone to remove nitro before sanding ( not after) . I would stop using acetone as soon as I felt the majority of the finish was removed, leave it to dry for a couple of days and then sand dry back to bare wood.

I hope this helps, you can see on our site facebook page, this forum, plenty of examples of intense colouration on Maple using the deep colour coats ( they are designed for this purpose).   

Here is a Carmine Gypsy guitar similar in construction to the guitar you were working on  

I will send separate reply to mudslide re options, I think are open to him, but also mention here Wudtone has different groups of finishing products for different purposes and woods, eg the example above are just dye only, there is also a wide range of dye and pigment kits that are also ideal for refinishes.  Here is an recent example using a 50/50 mix of Surfer Girl / Tbird 

 

etc etc .

It is a shame, both of the projects you have tried have had barriers in the way ( and your not a delighted customer!) . How about when you get some fresh cut wood, giving it another try ( you pay postage , I will cover the cost of the kit). kind regards Andy Preston

WezV

andypwudtone said:

Depending on the thinners used, but in most cases it creates a petroleum barrier to any fine particle colour system, whether that is colron wood dye, colortone or the wudtone deep colour coats etc.  I re-iterate this because if mudslide or anyone follows that advice they will indeed experience the same problems you are having and also undermine the opportunity to have a colour of their choice.

i do see what you are saying about the thinning of contamination with thinners, but its been a proven technique that has worked for me with many other finishes.  infact my experience is that its been very useful for re-cleaning and successfully finishing surfaces when I have had a known contamination issue. 

  the reason i came to wudtone is because i wanted an easy rich colour option.   but i have managed tinted tru-oil finishes before with great success and no issues, just not managed deep rich colours with the same techniques yet

here is a mahogany firebird, the wings were much paler than the centre section so i used some mahogany colron to even it out, as well as a bit mixed in with the oil when wetsanding.   this guitar was wiped down with thinners first and it did not cause any issues

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/complete guitars/fb13.jpg

this one needed to have a wenge top, problem was there was no  dark wenge available at the time so i had to get red wenge.   its tinted black with chestnut spirit stain and then just has a few light coats of danish oil

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/complete guitars/Img_0682.jpg

this is what the wenge looked like raw, ironically on my wenge affect worktops

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/new/XL803861.jpg

Thanks for the offer on the wudtone.  i may come back to you on that.  Just about to sell my house so most projects are going on hold for now.   I am interested in the purple though

andypwudtone

no worries ,  kind regards

  

andypwudtone

hi mudslide, do you have a whole body pic?

mudslide73

mudslide73

 ^^ sorry about the delay and the lighting - I took it this morning and the flash version was even worse. The photos above are a much more accurate representation of the colour now.

andypwudtone

hi there, is there a veneer on the top ( shown by the edge of the arm rest )? and is the main body more than one piece?

kind regards

mudslide73

I need to look at it again properly. I'll photograph it from the side/rear tonight. I think its at least 2 pieces (maybe even 3) with a veneer.

WezV

yeah, its veneer over at least 2 pieces.   that is something very hard to make look good with any translucent finish, especially with the cut through for the forearm contour

although there may be a solution to that issue here.

http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/4860/veneer-examples-for-chrismusic

http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/4740/a-quick-pimp-up-of-a-yamaha-fretless

if it was mine i would be looking at veneering the front -   going over the contour.  could be with something plain or fancy depending on your taste.  I would also add binding to give it a sharper look but that is a bit more advanced and the edges do have a small enough radius that it should be easy to get a sharper line without going to those lengths

you would need to be aware of the potential for glue seepage which could make dying difficult, but if going for something like sycamore, maple or beech this shouldn't be an issue and you should still have most finishing options available to you - at least for the front

mudslide73

It's a 3 piece with a veneer on the back too. The only visible seam on the rear is at the neck joint scallop. I'll post photos in a bit. Thanks for all the comments so far.

andypwudtone

no worries , have you spotted anything ( eg google search ) that you like the look of for this guitar you could share? before I suggest options open to you with Wudtone.

 

mudslide73

For solid(ish) finishes I'm a fan of Fender blues/greens (sonic, daphne etc.).For trans finishes I like Gibson reds and also Oranges (like G&Ls clear Orange).

All that said I'm a fan of most of your finishes with only the very deep colours not floating my boat completely. My favourites are probably Cherry Flamenco, Saffron, Hot Auburn & Tbird.

andypwudtone

Hi Mudslide , 

I think you can re-finish this with Wudtone. I would try sanding the back first, give the back a going over (start with 80/120 grit ( orbital or belt sander ). You will soon see how quickly you get down to clean bare wood ( it won't take long with 80 grit ), Then sand 180 along the grain. Basswood isn't that hard so it is a fairly easy task. See if it is porous with a drop of water. ( it will soak in like blotting paper.) As mentioned above don't use any thinners cleaners etc and clog it all up again.  Seeing what is needed to get to bare wood on the back will help you understand how much effort you need to apply to do the same on the edges / top . The top I would be more careful with ( as we don't know what the veneer is or how thick it is) , I would use 120 grit , sanding from the armrest curve in over the veneer to see how it changes with sanding until I felt confident I had got to bare wood. You will also get the previous finish off the inner curves of the horns easier with a flap wheel on a drill. When you are confident you have removed the previous finish. Go over again with fresh 240 grit and just blow off the dust ( or wipe off with some clean cotton cloth , eg old tea towel). Always wear nitrile gloves when handling it so you don't get any oils off you hands on the bare wood etc. 

Wudtone has two types of finish for bodies. 

Fine particle, Dye only kits ( translucent, ideal for grain popping , especially on maple, and ash)

Dye and pigment kits ( also produce translucent results , but these become less so with more base coats until with enough base coats they eventually solid colour)

Top coats , satin to xgloss , ageing non ageing

With a laminated veneered  body you are probably better off with a level of pigment in the finish so you can start translucent but keep going until there is enough pigment on the body to overcome seeing the laminate joins , veneer edge etc. Having said that some translucency may look cool, hard to say until you give it a try. Off the shelf options that leap out at me are any of the Blondes to Faded Fiesta,  Columbian Gold and with gold highlights embedded into the base coat, also tbird , surfer girl. But I think a custom kit like below might suit you better given that I like a challenge and you mentioned the G&L orange. Maybe something like this will really suit the guitar?.   

  

I could mix up a pigment based kit to produce something like this ( 3 to 4 base coats and you would still have some translucency, 5-7 base coats and it will be nearing solid. So really up to you when you stop. Also would be nice with some gold high lights added to the base coat. Let me know what you think, If you fancy a different shade let me know and I will see if we can help. kind regards

  

andypwudtone

hi mudslide, thnku I sent a reply to your mail, sometimes things get spammed , let me know received Ok

kind regards

mudslide73

returned your email Andy.