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My only concern is feel at volume, not volume - in my own tests I've found the EHX 44 magnum into an 8 ohm cab has more than enough volume for even a loud guitar band. But at its 40ish watts there's no real low end at higher volume, well noticeably less than I get from my Matrix GT1000FX. Just a concern if this is more like a 60 watt amp - I don't have a reference point that makes me confident it'd be powerful enough for my tastes.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
I play guitar and take photos of stuff. I also like beans on toast.
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"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
I'm looking to try this amp out for a home stereo silent recording setup and that'd need cab sim on both channels.
Finally had a chance to try a THR100HD—bought one used at a good price. I had high expectations for the amp based on positive comments and some excellent demos, but I must say I was quite disappointed. Clean sounds are fine, and in general the amp does a good job of feeling like a tube amp (though the “Class A” mode was too pronounced and felt like a caricature of cathode bias). But as @monquixote notes, the dirty sounds all have a very fatiguing, unnatural-sounding high frequency fizz that I can’t dial out. This is something I hear in most modelers (including the THR10), but I’d hoped that the THR100 wouldn’t suffer from it. As a result, I just couldn’t get distorted sounds that I was happy with at all. While I was quite happy with the clean sounds, they aren’t really what I bought the amp for. I’ve only tried it with a single cab so far—an open-back 1x12 with a G12M-25—but I am quite familiar with this cabinet and very happy with how it sounds with other amps.
I was also quite disappointed to find that it doesn’t especially excel at sounding good at low volumes—being a modeler, I had high hopes for the amp as a quiet practice solution, among other things, but it really needed to be turned up a bit louder than I would like to sound reasonably good.
On the plus side, I very much like the approach that Yamaha has taken—no presets and few built-in effects—as it forces the player to interact with it more like a traditional amp than like a rackmount effect or modeler. I think they also did a fine job of making all of the modes sound like variations on a theme with a bit of a signature “THR100” sound rather than offering a grab-bag assortment of widely disparate amps from different manufacturers, which turns me off a bit from typical modelers.
I’m a big fan of Yamaha, as a company—my favorite solidbody guitar is the SG1000, I quite like their old late-1970s/early-1980s solid state amps like the G100, and I love the vastly-underrated old E1005/E1010 analog delays—so I’m holding out hope for future versions of the THR.
I know what you mean about the 'Class A' mode being overdone - that's a problem I fond with the Blackstar ID as well, it's probably because in reality the effects of different power valves and power stage types aren't quite as pronounced in reality as most people think they are, so they overdo it a bit to make it more obvious.
I'd still like to try one properly with my own speakers though. I was going to make you an offer for it until I saw where you are .
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Yes, I remember your comment about not hearing that “fizz” when you tried one—that was partly what pushed me over the edge to buy one! All kidding aside, I’m quite glad I did; there are things that I like about the amp.
I’m ever-hopeful that I’ll find a two-channel amp that does what I’m looking for. The THR100HD seemed like it could come close, but alas!
The speakers may be important - I nearly bought a Blackstar HT-1R recently after first trying it through the V30s in my Mesa combo, which sounded great. Unfortunately through its own cab which I didn't have at first, it had a top-end fizz I couldn't dial out - but carrying a 100W 2x12" combo just to use as the speakers for a 1W head seemed a little counterproductive . I should maybe look for a lightweight V30 cab...
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Basically you have a set of capacitors to store energy, which is then available to enable the amp's output power to exceed its steady input power. If you get it right you can have an amp that genuinely outputs more power when fed music than it takes in - it works with music, not with pink noise.
I don't now if that's how Yamaha have done it but their claim is plausible for a reasonable input signal. There are serious installation amps that do this. I don't think there's anything dishonest about it - both the input and output power are published.
He speaks truth.
Input power - under 3680W (that's the limit on the power connector)
Output power - 10kW
I would suggest that Lab are a well respected brand and that when they say it'll deliver 10,000W for music they're not fibbing.
My YouTube Channel
I can accept that the effective music power output of a power amp designed for PA can exceed the power draw (for the same reasons as it's correct to use higher-rated amps than speakers, for PA), but for a guitar amp to claim more output power than input power is dishonest. It also means that comparing a "100W" amp measured like that to a *true* 100W amp that will put out 100W continuous clean power - and up to double it distorted, or several times that in 'music power' - is going to reflect very badly on the 'music power rated' amp.
Put a THR100 up against a Marshall 2203 or a Hiwatt DR103 and see if you still think 'music programme' is a valid way to rate guitar amp power .
What's disappointing about this one is that with SMPS and Class D it would be a piece of cake to make it a true 100W output, at very little extra cost.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
In engineering terms it is trivial to build a power amp that can output - for long periods of time - more than its continuous input. You just up the power storage capacity to match the requirement.
I've explained how to do it, and given you an example of a power amp that exceeds its input power by a factor of three at the top end of the industry where fibs aren't tolerated. I can give you a dozen more examples if you like - all respected brands, all operating in applications where "dishonesty" isn't tolerated and the companies that use them put them through serious torture testing before taking them into their fleets.
Not sure what there is to dispute. It is a well established and thoroughly proven approach.