Does anyone in the UK do the classic Hiwatt thing?

Jonathanthomas83

I know, I know..."just buy a Hiwatt"...no, I don't want to pay over the odds for a beat up 70's authentic model and I don't want any of the newer Hiwatt models, they're not said to be as good.

Reeves in the US do an excellent job but they're so expensive and I don't like the idea of importing (although, I'll check with their German dealer).

But wanted to check that there's any amp builders in the UK who can do a classic Hiwatt clean in the same vein of what Gilmour uses. @martinw do you do anything like that? 

jpfamps

An original 70s Hiwatt will be cheaper than any new production amp, almost certainly better built and will hold it's value, so I'm confused as to why you don't to go down this route.

They aren't that hard to find.

Jonathanthomas83

Because I'm very interested in brand new builders like MJW. Specifically I think Reeves are doing a great job but like I said, they're in the US. I would like to support new UK builders, and I'd also like a new and shiney amplifier, not an old 70's one! Call me shallow, but that's how I'm thinking at the moment. 

Another thing I'd like is an effects loop, which a 70's model is unlikely to have.

Cheers 

RiftAmps

I don't think there's anybody doing them as a specialism (like Reeves/Mywatt etc) which is probably what you're after. There's definitely a handful of builders who'll be able to build you an amp but you'd need to enter a dialogue with them to ensure you're both on the same wavelength.

Jonathanthomas83

Thanks you, I'll ask some questions! :-)

victorludorum

Matamp might have something in their clearance sale. They have done Hiwatt type amps from time to time.

martinw

Jonathanthomas83 said:

 @martinw do you do anything like that? 

Yes.

robinbowes

You could do worse than to try Dave @ Rosewell amps. His workshop is adjacent to the Hiwatt factory in Carcroft and I believe he does work for them.

http://www.rosewell-amps.co.uk/

stratman3142

Sorry off topic, a bit.

The other guitar player in my band brought his Harry Joyce to rehearsal last week. It sounded great and worked really well with pedals.

He told me that the Harry Joyce amps go for insane prices now. But I think they're made in the US.

Gassage

@jonathanthomas83

1. Hiwatts are built so well they last. And last. And last
2. There's a few on here (me included) who will help you if you find one and post gutshots.
3. Hi-Tone make the best clones and the best speaker clone
4. You can buy minty DR103' for 1000-1200 and nothing compares.

and crucially:

5. Effects Loop- if you want this then you simply are not getting what Hiwatts are about. They are undistortable (like max everything and it still is clean)and the whole point is to put pedals into the front end.
6. No-one has made a clone that is as good as the Hylight era ones (IMO) and I've owned 4 DR103's.

Jonathanthomas83

Thanks all. @martinw, I'll email you.

@Gassage, that's really helpful, thank you. I can never seem to find any for sale on ebay, at least I can't when I decide to look. But when I find something I'll message you to make sure it's ok. 

So what year's should I be looking at for the Hylight era? 

Gassage

@jonathanthomas83

Really well worth registering on the vintage amps forum and the gilmour gear forum as the good ones tend to be bought and sold on there.

Hylight era- 1969- 1979, although they were still sold for a couple of years after 79.

I've owned a 70,71 and 74 DR103 and a 76 SA212. The 1974 was amazing. They are all very sensitive to tubes and Mullard/Winged C should be what you're looking for. Please please check the OT and IT are spot on with the yellow Partridge label clearly evident. Check too for a Bulgin bakalyte mains plug into the back of the amp- it assists value if they're there (cue @ICBM saying they're lethal and he'll fit an IEC for you!!)

There's also a Hiwatt Page on Facebook- if you ask to join I can approve you.

Please note: you really really need to run it through Fanes and a proper Hiwatt cab- it makes a difference. I prefer the 40w Pulsonics but others like the 50 or 100w purple backs - if you find Fane Crescendo's you'll have done better than I have ever managed!!

meltedbuzzbox

nothing wrong with the newer Hiwatts either. 

I've been happily using my SA212 with no dramas at all

Modulus_Amps

Here is one I am developing with a few other gents, will be available as a kit from me or as a complete amp from them, drop me a PM if interested and I can point you in there direction, There will be a DR 504 (50w)and DR103  (100w) style amp. chassis are on order so it will be several weeks before the first ones are built.

Modulus_Amps

There were different pre-amps used, here is one cranked and distorting... with a much needed attenuator

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nl-ak-Se6Vc

You may find this page informative too

http://hiwatt.org/

impmann

Wasn't the chap who made the HiWatt amps for the Harrisons til he got shafted by them making amps?

thermionic

Modulus_Amps said:

There were different pre-amps used, here is one cranked and distorting... with a much needed attenuator

That was a very, very nice sound... and some of the most tasteful and tuneful playing I've heard on a YouTube demo.

Gassage

impmann said:

Wasn't the chap who made the HiWatt amps for the Harrisons til he got shafted by them making amps?

He used to post on TGP passionately that the early MG Hiwatts were built to the best possible standard he could make them to, and I'd say a lot are excellent, but still not quite as chimey and rich as the old ones.

By the way, wanted to make it clear, when I said clones in my first post, I don't include new and very worthwhile design takes from the likes of Reeves and Clayton at HiTone. There's not been that many efforts to directly clone, and that's down to the Partridges not being available.

Jonathanthomas83

Thanks guys, I may have an update soon, depending on how things go! :-)

marantz1300

You could buy a DR112 PA100.
They are cheaper and sound great with pedals.
Still have that Hiwatt tone.

ICBM

Gassage said:

Check too for a Bulgin bakalyte mains plug into the back of the amp- it assists value if they're there (cue @ICBM saying they're lethal and he'll fit an IEC for you!!)

Must have missed this at the time .

Yes, check for a Bulgin - and replace it if you find one. It assists nothing other than positively identifying an original amp as opposed to a modern one.

Bulgins are dangerous, unreliable and a nuisance since you will need to keep a spare cable. They were never any good as mains connectors even back in the day, and unless you have a real museum piece I would not even consider leaving one in place on an amp you actually want to use.

You don't have to hack the chassis to fit an IEC socket these days - you can get a nice one from TAD which uses the original screw holes and completely covers the original cutout - you *do* still have to file it out slightly, there is no way around that since you can't fit a square(ish) peg in a round hole! But at least it does a much neater and safer job (no exposed gaps) and means that if you do ever want to put the original back for some reason, the alteration will be invisible from the outside.