Completed project: FIGLA, a looper controller for the Helix

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SporkySporky Frets: 28119
edited June 2016 in Making & Modding
Right. I thought this might be worth documenting in case anyone else is interested. As you'll see, my approach is based on overthinking and overengineering everything I can.

I am rather fond of my Line6 Helix, but having previously used a pedalboard with a Headrush the need to switch to a different screen to control the looper is somewhat irksome, particularly as I'm used to leaving the looper in overdub mode and changing sounds to play each component part. On the Helix that means a lot of flipping between screens and therefore a loss of "flow". Not that I'm particularly great at it.

The Helix manual lists the MIDI CC messages to control the looper. I know which end of a soldering iron not to pick up. It therefore didn't seem a Herculean task to build a discrete control pedal for the looper so that I can leave the Helix in normal control mode but work the looper from a separate set of buttons.

At the same time, the lack of MIDI clock functionality in the Helix was limiting what I could do with my Source Audio Reflex. Only a little, but still limiting, so some way of incorporating MIDI clock seemed a good idea. Ha ha. More on that later.

A few stages first before anything gets built:

  1. I used MIDI-OX (jolly useful bit of free software) to test that the Helix does respond to those MIDI CCs when not in Looper control mode. Turns out it does. Good start.
  2. I checked that I could get the Helix Tap Tempo footswitch to send a MIDI CC every time it's pressed. Yup. Plan forming; send a message whenever the footswitch is pressed, and have something downstream time the pulses and generate MIDI clock in time. This has some limitations but it'll be good enough until (hopefully) MIDI clock is added to the Helix.
  3. Research. There are a load of MIDI controller boards out there - MIDICPU is well supported and will definitely do all the looper control stuff, but won't do the clock stuff (as far as I can work out). I could homebrew something with Arduino but that's another rabbit-hole to get stuck in. I ended up finding MIDI-Kits and a couple of emails later had a MIDunio with breakout board and software all built up. It took a few more versions of the software to get it working correctly (MIDI clock still isn't quite there but progress being made) but all ready now.


So the build begins. I couldn't easily find a sensibly sized enclosure for the footswitch, but there are plenty of cheap amp footswitches out there - the bonus being that they have the switches already inside too. After a few things went for more than I fancied on eBay I bought myself a TC Electronic Switch-6 - preloaded with six momentary footswitches on a nice PCB that links earth across them all. A few cheeky mods to the PCB, enlargement of the jack hole to take a Cliff 7-way socket, some light sanding & a lick of spray paint and all looked good. I had some vinyl lettering done (at www.vinylletteringonline.co.uk - no affiliation but it was quick and good quality). Also came up with a name; FIGLA. FIGLA is a helix-loop-helix protein. See what I did there?


Finished footswitch bit - the brains will be in a separate enclosure:


http://www.monkeyfx.co.uk/pictures/builds/FIGLA/FIGLAtop-sm.jpg

http://www.monkeyfx.co.uk/pictures/builds/FIGLA/FIGLAback-sm.jpg

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  • SporkySporky Frets: 28119
    Next step is to build the brains - basically a Hammond enclosure that'll hold the MIDuino, with MIDI in and out and another 7-pin socket to connect to the switchy bit.

    Because of the sizes and shapes of the various bits (and because I needed some CAD practice) I decided to model all the bits in Rhino3D to make sure they'd fit around each other; I can then print off drilling templates to make sure everything lines up neatly (particularly the MIDunio board, which will sit on 5mm standoffs screwed through the lid, but also has connectors that need to go through the side). Skip a few hours of measuring things with verniers and making models of connectors and such and we have this:

    http://www.monkeyfx.co.uk/pictures/builds/FIGLA/brainsrenderFL-sm.jpg
    http://www.monkeyfx.co.uk/pictures/builds/FIGLA/brainsrenderRR-sm.jpg

    Those transparent orange cylinders show where the wires will come away from the connectors, so I can be sure they won't foul the board.

    That lets me plot the hole positions:

    http://www.monkeyfx.co.uk/pictures/builds/FIGLA/brainsencFL-sm.jpg

    So next I'll extract the surfaces, mark the centres of the holes and print that onto a bit of paper so I can transfer the positions reasonably accurately to the enclosure. Alternatively I could make up drilling templates on on of the CNC machines, but I'm only making one of these and experience from making the ValveSporkers tells me that a paper template is accurate enough for this work.
    "[Sporky] brings a certain vibe and dignity to the forum."
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  • SporkySporky Frets: 28119
    And after a bit of work here's the drill template ready to be printed. The rectangles are pretty much the sizes of the flat surfaces on the enclosure which will make alignment simple.

    http://www.monkeyfx.co.uk/pictures/builds/FIGLA/brainsdrill-sm.jpg
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  • SporkySporky Frets: 28119
    Paper template printed, cut out and stuck with spray-mount to the enclosure - time to check it looks the same (layout-wise at least) as the rendering:

    http://www.monkeyfx.co.uk/pictures/builds/FIGLA/papertemplate-sm.jpg

    http://www.monkeyfx.co.uk/pictures/builds/FIGLA/brainsencFL-sm.jpg

    That'll do, pig, that'll do. Next step is to centre-punch all of those holes, remove the template and write the sizes next to each punch point.
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  • SporkySporky Frets: 28119
    A few more steps done this morning before meeting the groomer at the vet to get Sprocket's tongue stuck back on. We've renamed her Redbeard The Puppy Pirate in honour of her bloodstained appearance.

    So enclosure punched and marked:

    http://monkeyfx.co.uk/pictures/builds/FIGLA/encmarked-sm.jpg

    Drill the top first; all 3mm (which is also a decent pilot size for the bigger holes). A little drop of cutting fluid on each or the swarf tends to stick to the drill bit. Also, kids, remember to wear barrier cream, eye protection and ear defenders for this sort of work.

    http://monkeyfx.co.uk/pictures/builds/FIGLA/topholes-sm.jpg

    Then same deal for the side and end holes, but using a vice for stability and safety. For the bigger holes I use a step drill, nice clean holes and the same bit will go up to 24mm. Cutting fluid is even more important for the bigger holes as they're cut at a lower speed.

    http://monkeyfx.co.uk/pictures/builds/FIGLA/stepdrill-sm.jpg

    Then a quick go with a 220 grit foam sanding block and a spray and wipe down with isopropanol. I'm not going to bother painting this as it'll sit out of the way.

    http://monkeyfx.co.uk/pictures/builds/FIGLA/drilled-sm.jpg

    On a ValveSporker I'd countersink the PCB mounting holes so that the heads sit below the surface slightly, then fill the screw heads with liquid metal epoxy, sanding it down flat. Again, this doesn't need to be so pretty so next step is assembly and wiring.
    "[Sporky] brings a certain vibe and dignity to the forum."
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  • SporkySporky Frets: 28119
    ...and I should have been more careful with the modelling and/or marking up - the end holes for the MIDuino USB and power are too near the top of the enclosure. My plan is to cut down the PCB mounts a bit and see if that's enough, otherwise I can enlarge the holes a step on the step drill and it should still look OK.
    "[Sporky] brings a certain vibe and dignity to the forum."
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  • SporkySporky Frets: 28119
    Different plan! I will use nylon screws through the lid, nylon nuts as spacers and not bother with the separate standoffs. Simpler. Betterer.
    "[Sporky] brings a certain vibe and dignity to the forum."
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  • SporkySporky Frets: 28119
    It is finished (bar the code change to get the MIDI clock stuff working).

    The complete "brains" enclosure with natty vinyl labels:


    How I resolved the MIDuino mounting - there are short nylon screws under the front of the board with nuts to hold the board above the enclosure - this aligns the USB and power jacks pretty much perfectly - then longer nylon screws at the back, again with a nut each between the enclosure and board, and then another nut above to hold the board down.


    And the internal wiring -there's some slack/spare in case of needing to swap any connections. If I was gigging or similar I'd make up a little connector block to keep this more secure, but a good shaking doesn't result in anything coming loose.


    And the outside - as you can see the alignment of the holes worked out OK in the end. And the side. HA HA HA.



    Finally here's the setup completed. It works very nicely; I can now control the Helix looper without opening its own control screen.

    "[Sporky] brings a certain vibe and dignity to the forum."
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  • TimmyOTimmyO Frets: 7411
    Sporky said:

    Also came up with a name; FIGLA. FIGLA is a helix-loop-helix protein. See what I did there?
    Is the answer "You asked Lady Bertie McHobnobs" ? 
    Red ones are better. 
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  • SporkySporky Frets: 28119
    No! I found it myself!
    "[Sporky] brings a certain vibe and dignity to the forum."
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  • ThorpyFXThorpyFX Frets: 6129
    tFB Trader
    Well that is an overly engineered but very elegant solution! 
    Adrian Thorpe MBE | Owner of ThorpyFx Ltd | Email: thorpy@thorpyfx.com | Twitter: @ThorpyFx | Facebook: ThorpyFx Ltd | Website: www.thorpyfx.com
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  • BigMonkaBigMonka Frets: 1770
    TimmyO said:
    Sporky said:

    Also came up with a name; FIGLA. FIGLA is a helix-loop-helix protein. See what I did there?
    Is the answer "You asked Lady Bertie McHobnobs" ? 

    :-O is that what Lady bMcH means? I always thought Sporky was married to a dyslexic Lady McBeth.
    Always be yourself! Unless you can be Batman, in which case always be Batman.
    My boss told me "dress for the job you want, not the job you have"... now I'm sat in a disciplinary meeting dressed as Batman.
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  • SporkySporky Frets: 28119
    ThorpyFX said:
    Well that is an overly engineered but very elegant solution! 
    Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
    BigMonka said:
    TimmyO said:
    Sporky said:

    Also came up with a name; FIGLA. FIGLA is a helix-loop-helix protein. See what I did there?
    Is the answer "You asked Lady Bertie McHobnobs" ? 

    :-O is that what Lady bMcH means? I always thought Sporky was married to a dyslexic Lady McBeth.
    Surely that'd make me the dyslexic one?
    "[Sporky] brings a certain vibe and dignity to the forum."
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  • BigMonkaBigMonka Frets: 1770
    Sporky said:
    ThorpyFX said:
    Well that is an overly engineered but very elegant solution! 
    Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
    BigMonka said:
    TimmyO said:
    Sporky said:

    Also came up with a name; FIGLA. FIGLA is a helix-loop-helix protein. See what I did there?
    Is the answer "You asked Lady Bertie McHobnobs" ? 

    :-O is that what Lady bMcH means? I always thought Sporky was married to a dyslexic Lady McBeth.
    Surely that'd make me the dyslexic one?
    touché
    Always be yourself! Unless you can be Batman, in which case always be Batman.
    My boss told me "dress for the job you want, not the job you have"... now I'm sat in a disciplinary meeting dressed as Batman.
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  • Vid of it working?
    Terrific job, well done!
    Give a man a fire and he's warm for the day. But set fire to him and he's warm for the rest of his life
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  • SporkySporky Frets: 28119
    I did a photo!

    Not sure I can work a camera and a guitar and this all at the same time. Let alone make the results be on the inferweb without any fires.
    "[Sporky] brings a certain vibe and dignity to the forum."
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