Making kit pedals - what gear would you recommend?

Megii

english_bob said:

Megii said:

Cheers for the further advice and suggestions @Sporky and @Adam_MD - much appreciated.

It will be great if I get to a point where I can just buy PCBs and source the bits myself, and drill the enclosure and may the pedal in the format I choose. I see that there are veroboard diagrams published for some pedal circuits as well, and it would be cool to be able to use those. So, yes, I hope things will go in that way.

For my initial rat-clone build, I'm ordering a pre-drilled black powder coated enclosure, so got that one covered.

I've drilled the enclosures for the last few pedals I've done (from veroboard diagrams on tagboardeffects.com)- it's not too tricky, if a little risky- for one thing, you only get one shot at drilling, and if you put the holes in the wrong places you're stuck with them (and you're out a tenner if you've bought a proper Hammond box).

There are templates around for various combinations of pots, switches etc that you could use. If you're not using something like that, plan carefully and remember to take account of all the dimensions of the components - height, width and depth.

FWIW, a stepped or conical drill bit is a good investment:

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/0499299/?grossPrice=Y&cm_mmc=UK-PLA-_-google-_-PLA_UK_EN_Tools-_-Power_Tool_Accessories_And_Drill_Bits&mkwid=sy1KTqots_dc|pcrid|88057064763|pkw||pmt||prd|0499299&gclid=CPGw2O_XhNACFYefGwodkC8Bbw


I've found that I've got the best results by drilling very small pilot holes, then slightly larger ones, then using a conical bit to widen the holes to the size I wanted. Keep the drill at the slowest speed you can. If you do it like that you can do your drilling without the need to use a vice (although it would be significantly safer if you did). I generally keep the components I'm drilling for handy, so I can check when I've drilled the right size hole. Drill slowly and keep checking.

Others will give you better advice about finishing- I've never put a huge amount of effort in to it. Hammerite paint will give you decent results with minimal effort (although in a fairly limited range of colours, and not very cheap), and if your handwriting is reasonably neat you could just handwrite your labelling (I've got a Stabilo Write-4-All pen that works on bare enclosures or on Hammerite paint).

Oh, and Tagboardeffects also has a good numpty's guide to component sourcing- should help you avoid buying wildly inappropriate components.

A lot of great advice here, many thanks for taking the time @english_bob Re finishing of enclosures, I think probably I'm the type that's happy as long as it looks tidy and smart, and not too worried about producing some great work of art. And the points re drilling are well-made, nice one.

Sporky

english_bob said:

FWIW, a stepped or conical drill bit is a good investment: 

Definitely, especially for the largest holes - I'd say go stepped rather than conial though, you can count the steps rather than guessing at all. Otherwise I prefer using a set of drills that matches the components - easier not to go a step too far.

english_bob said:

I've found that I've got the best results by drilling very small pilot holes, then slightly larger ones, then using a conical bit to widen the holes to the size I wanted. Keep the drill at the slowest speed you can. If you do it like that you can do your drilling without the need to use a vice (although it would be significantly safer if you did). I generally keep the components I'm drilling for handy, so I can check when I've drilled the right size hole. Drill slowly and keep checking.

Hmm - I mostly agree, but I'd say 3mm pilot. Use a centrepunch first (I like the automagic ones), then 3mm pilot, then straight to full size. Drill speed should be set according to the drill size so that you're producing chips or coils rather than dust - the chips carry away heat. Definitely have the workpiece in a vice, and a pillar drill is well worth the money.

Also some Dormer Supercut or similar will stop the aluminium from sticking to the drill bits and give cleaner, faster drilling - I bought a bottle of this about ten years ago and have used maybe 10% of it.

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/cutting-fluids/1963441/

For finishing I scuff the enclosure with a 220 grit foam sanding block, then degrease with spray isopropanol. One coat of primer, a couple of colour, decal, a couple of lacquer. Up to the decal stage I bake in a toaster oven on very low.

Megii

Sporky said:

Megii said:

I do have one query which is that some caution is advised with regard to how easy it is to overheat some of the components, and I've seen people suggest "socketing" such components to avoid the risk.

a) Is that a good idea? and if so
b) where does one buy the socket thingys?

For sockets in quantity try Rapid Electronics, RS or CPC. For only a few eBay is probably a better bet - you'll pay silly money for each, but that's still cheaper than buying 1000 when you need two.

@Sporky help! I had a look on the Rapid site, but basically have no idea what to search for re the socket thingys and I am wanting to get a modest supply. If you could just link me to any reasonable ebay ad to buy a couple of dozen or so, I'd be very grateful, cheers mate.

Sporky

https://www.rapidonline.com/truconnect-110-87-308-41001-8-pin-0-3in-turned-pin-socket-22-1720 for normal op-amps etc

Or - just a quick search, no endorsement or otherwise of the seller:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIL-DIP-IC-Socket-6-8-14-16-18-20-Pin-Sockets-1st-CLASS-POST-/290767443526?var=&hash=item43b3171646:m:mZvJyqxJwDZkU_vJzZhOOoQ

You're after DIL sockets.

english_bob

Sporky said:

https://www.rapidonline.com/truconnect-110-87-308-41001-8-pin-0-3in-turned-pin-socket-22-1720 for normal op-amps etc

Or - just a quick search, no endorsement or otherwise of the seller:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIL-DIP-IC-Socket-6-8-14-16-18-20-Pin-Sockets-1st-CLASS-POST-/290767443526?var=&hash=item43b3171646:m:mZvJyqxJwDZkU_vJzZhOOoQ

You're after DIL sockets.

Ah. You can also get these:

http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=225_230&products_id=1648

...which are suitable for socketing anything else. You buy a strip of them and cut off the number you need for each job.

FWIW, I'd try to keep socketing to a minimum- having components fall out of the sockets- which might happen with a good hard bang- will cause the pedal to fail. It introduces extra potential unreliability, so only do it if you're really concerned about the component you're socketing, or if it's something you might want to swap out, like clipping diodes in an overdrive or something.

Sporky

Excellent call by Mr Bob there. You can even snap all the plastic off and use just the metal pin and socket if space is limited, though watch out for shorts.

Megii

Cheers @Sporky and @english_bob - actually it was the one that Mr Bob linked to that I meant, wasn't clear sorry. There already appears to be a DIL socket included in the kit. All new terminology to me. Actually, sorreee but any chance of linking to a specific good choice for the solder as well. Did look on Rapid's site, but a bit overwhelming to a newby who doesn't know exactly what to look for...

Sporky

This looks OK.

https://www.rapidonline.com/weller-t0051388499-wsw-sac-l0-96-5-3-0-5-solder-wire-0-5mm-100g-85-6542

I'd go for something around 0.5mm (I use 0.4mm), lead-free in case you want to sell what you make.

Megii

Sporky said:

This looks OK.

https://www.rapidonline.com/weller-t0051388499-wsw-sac-l0-96-5-3-0-5-solder-wire-0-5mm-100g-85-6542

I'd go for something around 0.5mm (I use 0.4mm), lead-free in case you want to sell what you make.

Nice one, cheers, that will do I'm sure. Actually a good point re the possibility of selling later - never would have thought of that.

Adam_MD

Megii said:

Sporky said:

This looks OK.

https://www.rapidonline.com/weller-t0051388499-wsw-sac-l0-96-5-3-0-5-solder-wire-0-5mm-100g-85-6542

I'd go for something around 0.5mm (I use 0.4mm), lead-free in case you want to sell what you make.

Nice one, cheers, that will do I'm sure. Actually a good point re the possibility of selling later - never would have thought of that.

Good call on the lead free with silver it melts a lot easier than the regular lead free I had before.

english_bob

Sporky said:

This looks OK.

https://www.rapidonline.com/weller-t0051388499-wsw-sac-l0-96-5-3-0-5-solder-wire-0-5mm-100g-85-6542

I'd go for something around 0.5mm (I use 0.4mm), lead-free in case you want to sell what you make.

I assume you're talking about selling commercially. Presumably nobody's going to take issue with what sort of solder you've used if you build one-offs for your own enjoyment and sell some of them in the classifieds here.

Sporky

english_bob said:

I assume you're talking about selling commercially. Presumably nobody's going to take issue with what sort of solder you've used if you build one-offs for your own enjoyment and sell some of them in the classifieds here.

Technically selling one or two through the classifieds is still dodgy - might as well do it the OK way from the get-go.

With the skinny stuff the lead-free is no harder to work with.

english_bob

Sporky said:

english_bob said:

I assume you're talking about selling commercially. Presumably nobody's going to take issue with what sort of solder you've used if you build one-offs for your own enjoyment and sell some of them in the classifieds here.

Technically selling one or two through the classifieds is still dodgy - might as well do it the OK way from the get-go.

With the skinny stuff the lead-free is no harder to work with.

I have no idea what sort of solder I use. I just bought whatever was cheap on Amazon or eBay or somewhere.

If it was Amazon I might find it if I trawl back far enough through my purchase history...

Megii

I confess I did balk a bit at the £23 cost of the solder reel @Sporky linked to, so I went on the bay and found a smaller spool (3 metres) but otherwise with similar specs. and the same quoted melting point - hope a reasonable choice anyhow.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282204138989

In the past when working on guitar wiring, I've always used the lead-free silver solder that Maplins sell, and found it fine to work with. Their cheaper lead-free stuff, not described as "silver solder" is a bit rubbish though in my opinion.

Sporky

I've used that brand before with no problems.

Megii

Sporky said:

I've used that brand before with no problems.

Good to know, cheers!

ian964

I'm just about to start building my first pedal kit - a Fuzz Dog TS808. This will be the first time I've tried soldering components on a PCB though I've done guitar wiring and built an Ampmaker PP1800 amp kit before. I've got a Maplin solder station, and I'm not sure what temperature I should use for PCBs? I've generally used about 330 for the amp kit which is built on a turret board rather than PCB and 350 when attaching leads to a pot case.

Sporky

330 sounds very hot to me - the solder should be melting at about 220. I've typically worked at 250-260.

Megii

Sporky said:

330 sounds very hot to me - the solder should be melting at about 220. I've typically worked at 250-260.

Thanks for this @Sporky, I was wondering about @ian964 's question myself.

Sporky

Ha! Just checked and I was fibbing; my Weller is set to 325.

I don't know why you lot listen to me at all.