P or a J

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BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 8080
Well the Stingray is getting more play time than pretty much any guitar I've had in the last year.. 

I've got the Helix connected up and acting as a USB interface so I can play along to tunes through that and it's working very nicely.

GAS is of course panging once more and I think I'd like to get a good old P or a J

What does the collective wisdom think? P, or J?
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Comments

  • SporkySporky Frets: 10764
    Given that you already have the best bass, why buy any bass that's not the best bass?
    Ich bin ein Hamburgler.
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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 8080
    Sporky said:
    Given that you already have the best bass, why buy any bass that's not the best bass?
    I need another one to help me appreciate how good the best bass is. 

    I figure a P or a J will do the trick nicely ;)
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  • octatonicoctatonic Frets: 16239
    With a Stingray I'd go for a J as it is more of a difference than between a Ray & a P.
    I am the juice of four limes.
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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 8080
    octatonic said:
    With a Stingray I'd go for a J as it is more of a difference than between a Ray & a P.
    I do need to try a J as the only thing that I'm not sure about is the skinny neck
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  • fretmeisterfretmeister Frets: 9121
    P and J are very different indeed. The neck pickup on some Js is close enough to a P in a mix, but not so much on its own.

    You'll never get a Jaco sound from a P, but you'll never get a super fat 70s P sound out of a J.

    So get a PJ instead.
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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 8080
    P and J are very different indeed. The neck pickup on some Js is close enough to a P in a mix, but not so much on its own.

    You'll never get a Jaco sound from a P, but you'll never get a super fat 70s P sound out of a J.

    So get a PJ instead.
    Did have a brief squiz at the Elite P, which is actually a PJ that does both active and passive. 

    But it is many monies..! Hmmmmmm
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  • octatonicoctatonic Frets: 16239
    I've had PJ basses in the past.
    I'd almost always prefer either a P or a J bass.
    I am the juice of four limes.
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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 8080
    Does a PJ do a good standard passive P sound?
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  • octatonicoctatonic Frets: 16239
    Does a PJ do a good standard passive P sound?
    The issue I have is there is usually some sort of compromise to be made- either the P sounds isn't meaty enough, or the J pickup sounds unbalanced against the P pickup.
    It really depends on the bass, the pickups, are they active or passive etc.
    I am the juice of four limes.
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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 8080
    octatonic said:
    Does a PJ do a good standard passive P sound?
    The issue I have is there is usually some sort of compromise to be made- either the P sounds isn't meaty enough, or the J pickup sounds unbalanced against the P pickup.
    It really depends on the bass, the pickups, are they active or passive etc.
    I see. Well the Elite P appears to do both active and passive so presumably can be balanced out.

    Bit wary of the 'noiseless' pickups in it tho...
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  • Dave_McDave_Mc Frets: 1046
    So get a PJ instead.
    Yeah. Though I guess you run the risk of ending up with all 3 :D
    I see. Well the Elite P appears to do both active and passive so presumably can be balanced out.

    Bit wary of the 'noiseless' pickups in it tho...
    A P pickup is already noiseless :D Granted, the J won't be if it's a regular one.
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 25710
    P body, J neck, P pickup, J bridge pickup - preferably a stacked humbucking one which fixes the balance and noise problem. No actives, two volume/one tone or volume/balance/tone.

    The ultimate Fender bass for me.

    But I don't need one, because I have a Rickenbacker 4001 which is the ultimate bass :). (Mine is fitted with humbuckers too.)
    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone."
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  • guitarfishbayguitarfishbay Frets: 5860
    P and J necks are interchangeable, so that could be one solution.

    You should get both then you'll have the 3 iconic basses, get the Jazz first as it's got the most tones. Look for deals on the outgoing Fender 2012 spec US Standards, they're generally great. IMHO they sound better than the deluxes, I haven't tried the elites but there's something hard to beat about classic single coil designs. Noiseless Jazz singles just don't have the same grind or punch to them. I did a direct A/B between a Sandberg with Delano's, Fender Standard, and Fender Deluxe Jazzes, after accounting for level differences the standard Fender IMHO was clearly the nicest for Tone (at least to my tastes.

    Also re: JJ vs PJ, personally I think there's something about the JJ both pickups on scoop that just sounds awesome. For slap it sounds classic, through a drive pedal you can get that wraparound bass sound with solid lows, mid space left for guitars, and enough high end cut for the bass to have clarity. A lot of rock bands use a Jazz for that reason. If you want the bass to be more forward then it is hard to beat a straightforward P bass. Between those, and the Ray, that's a huge amount of ground covered...

    If you want an active Pre then a pedal also works. Personally I really rate the Aguilar Tonehammer as far as EQ goes, very useful.

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  • guitarfishbayguitarfishbay Frets: 5860
    (Continued stream of consciousness..) Actually I did out of curiosity test EMG J and JA sets in my bass over Christmas... personally I liked them better than the noiseless passives I've heard, J set particularly. There's a nice low end to them, fatter than stock, but the punch still isn't quite the same. Despite not clipping the transients aren't as big as the Fender CS60s set, audibly and visibly in waveform. There's just something about the real singles that sound more 'together' when run one at a time, and a more pleasing scoop when run together. I've found myself similarly picky with guitar singles so take that as you will.
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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 8080
    Wow! Lots of choice. And it would appear that I need a P and a J.

    At this rate I'm going to need another one of those 6 slot Stagg stands in my music room just for basses...

    FFS
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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 8080
    Having done a load of scouring around and Internet 'research' I think I like the sound of a good old standard P.

    To be honest I've always wanted a YOB guitar and so I'm now going to look out for the impossible - a good, straight necked, not too heavy, nice sounding 74 P.

    Wish me luck. I'll update this thread in 2027 when I've still not found it 
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  • pintspillerpintspiller Frets: 370
    Play as many basses as you can and decide for yourself. Don't rush into buying one.
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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 8080
    I've been offered a '74 Precision, all original, Olympic White custom colour, straight neck, 8.5lbs, provenance as well as he got it from Andy Baxter with links to the bass on his website.. And at a great price...

    Too far away to try but I'm so very tempted. YOB Precision in a rare colour that's light, sorted and has history. I can see myself being skint here...!
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  • RockerRocker Frets: 2082
    Get yourself a Markbass combo too.
    Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. [Albert Einstein]

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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 8080
    Rocker said:
    Get yourself a Markbass combo too.
    Don't get me started...! Have been eyeing up all sorts of possibilities - Markbass, MB subway D800, Tonehammer, SVT... It goes on and on!
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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 8080
    I've been offered a '74 Precision, all original, Olympic White custom colour, straight neck, 8.5lbs, provenance as well as he got it from Andy Baxter with links to the bass on his website.. And at a great price...

    Too far away to try but I'm so very tempted. YOB Precision in a rare colour that's light, sorted and has history. I can see myself being skint here...!
    Well, I flippin' bought it. 

    Hope it's ok. Hope it arrives here ok. 


    If I even dare to suggest that I'm going to buy another guitar or bass on here in the next six months then you have my permission to come round and shoot me.
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 25710
    Right decision. You'd have kicked yourself if you hadn't :).

    It will be fine. As far as I can remember I've never played a bad early-70s Fender bass, I think they're so simple and solid that there's really nothing that can go wrong as long as it hasn't been modded.
    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone."
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  • guitarfishbayguitarfishbay Frets: 5860
    That sounds like an awesome bass on paper, hope it is as good when you get it.  Post pics!
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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 8080
    Thanks guys - don't worry, pics will be posted. It's definitely 'workhorse' and been through the wars a bit - but it is original and unmodded and its year of birth so a bit special.

    The two main issues with 70s fender basses aren't there - it has a straight neck and it's not the weight of a caravan. I also do trust Andy Baxter as well so that's good. I doubt he would have sold a total duffer. 
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