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Picked up a Squier Strat cheap years ago beacuse the owner claimed it wouldnt stay in tune, I strung it up properly and it stayed in tune just fine.
Well that's patently false isn't it? You turn the machinehead and the post turns. Are you suggesting that if I took pliers and tried to turn the post... it wouldn't? If so, it would be in violation of Newton's third law. There's no locking system in place is there? It's just a case of the tension exerted on the post not being enough to cause any tiny changes. Here though, there is change. Tiny tiny tiny change, but the lbs of tension to hz vibration ratio is so high that a small change makes a big difference.
So what this indicates is that you don't mean "that's not possible", you meant "I don't think that's possible". There's a reason people upgrade tuners though, and tuning stability is one of those reasons.
https://www.patreon.com/leviclay | https://www.youtube.com/c/leviclay
Well that's patently false isn't it? You turn the machinehead and the post turns. Are you suggesting that if I took pliers and tried to turn the post... it wouldn't? If so, it would be in violation of Newton's third law. There's no locking system in place is there? It's just a case of the tension exerted on the post not being enough to cause any tiny changes. Here though, there is change. Tiny tiny tiny change, but the lbs of tension to hz vibration ratio is so high that a small change makes a big difference.
So what this indicates is that you don't mean "that's not possible", you meant "I don't think that's possible". There's a reason people upgrade tuners though, and tuning stability is one of those reasons.
https://www.patreon.com/leviclay | https://www.youtube.com/c/leviclay
I'll repeat: if the tuner is strung and tuned properly, then you cannot pull it out of tune without physically bending the metal.
If you think you can, please explain how the post can turn without the post being able to turn the key. The purpose of a worm gear is exactly to prevent that.
Only if they believe you need them for that, which is wrong. The main reason is because higher quality machineheads have a smoother action, less backlash and a higher ratio, which makes them easier to tune smoothly and accurately with.
I'll repeat this again too: it's possible to make almost any set of machineheads, no matter how crude, stay in tune if you string and tune them properly. The only time you can't is if they are simply too worn or too poorly attached to the headstock, so either the post or the whole machinehead can move.
Good quality machineheads simply make tuning easier, and reduce the need to tune as far below the note before tuning up to it.
What I mean is that I have thirty years of professional repair experience which indicates I'm right, but I can't absolutely guarantee it.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Most people change machine heads for the wrong reasons. Locking machine heads undoubtably help keep in tune following tremolo use, but only if strung correctly. Grovers/Schallers etc with their higher ratio give greater precision for tuning than open geared cheapies, but the way they work is effectively identical - and the physics behind how the string is stretched and retained by the capstan is the same. The upgrade is there in terms of feel and precision.
I'm not saying you can't have 'bad machine heads' but in most cases I've experienced, its usually down to bad nut cutting, poor string winding or bad strings. The criticism of the Baritone Blacktop Teles I've read has been to do with bad nut cutting and the string tree not having a spacer fitted, so the string pull over the nut is too great - and that leads to tuning issues.
I'd agree with you about the intonation issue on the guitar, but again some of that could be solved or at least eased by a better cut nut. Shifting the bridge isn't going to be easy or invisible - but shimming the neck might be a better option. By that I mean block up the screw holes, insert a small shim between the butt of the neck and the body (not under the neck), and redrill the neck bolts. This effectively shifts the neck away from the body by a pre-deterimined amount, meaning the bridge saddles can acheive intonation without excessive travel. I once had to rework a shipment of guitars from a major manufacturer in this way (2000 pieces) with a team of guys after the contract manufacturer who built the guitars goofed. The decision was taken to rework rather than scrap, because of the costs - and the resultant guitars were perfectly useable/strong after the rework. To date, I haven't heard a single complaint about the work done - and that was more than 10 years ago!
Good luck sorting that.
if you think you have a failed tuner take the string off and turn the button 20 full turns. If you find a turn or two where it grinds or needs extra force it's a worn or failed gear. If not, it's fine and will work Just as well for baritone as a normal scale length
look at all the ERG's with stupid number of strings... almost all use standard tuners without issues.
the only thing you sometimes need different for baritone tuners is the hole size... Sperzels are not big enough as standard, but they do drill them larger on request
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As Uncle Psychossis says locking nuts are actually there to eliminate tuning issues with strings sticking in the nut/string trees particularly when dive bombing.
The locking nut also removes friction over the nut (see comments about sticking in the nut above) and came along before graphite nuts and the like were available.
Nobody said that the windings on a capstan can't come undone - they can with vigourous trem useage, (such as when fully detuned and back up), the wraps on the capstan can come back to rest in a slightly different place, causing tuning issues (hence my comment about locking machine heads needing to be properly strung).
The issue here is that the OP has said that the machine heads aren't gripping, letting the tuning slip. As @ICBM and I have said, this rarely is the case and bending the strings causing strings to detune is more often than not badly cut nuts or badly wrapped capstans.
Presumably you have heavier strings, or longer scale or a wound third on your baritone?
My Blacktop is one of the strat types and its great.
there is a pic on here though @Panama_Jack666 http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/comment/1389050/#Comment_1389050
i actually wanted a Blacktop but this has come my way instead