Musikding pedal kits

crunchman

english_bob said:

IMO the extra money you pay for a kit guarantees that you get all the components you need, and that they're properly rated for the job (how's a complete electronics n00b going to know that a 2W resistor is going to be enormous, and unnecessary, or that using 10V rated capacitors in a pedal that runs at 18V might not end well?).

It should guarantee you get all the components you need, but I had a complete kit that was missing a resistor once.  I wanted to get the board finished that day so ended up going to a Maplin shop and paying way over the odds.

juansolo

CPC, Farnell and Rapid are good suppliers here for when you start to buy things in a bit more bulk (worthwhile building up a part mountain). Tayda these days are best avoided for anything other than Alpha pots. We occasionally have to use Das Musikding for harder to get hold of parts (we're still waiting for Dr Tweek to return, but I strongly suspect he's long gone now).

At Maplin you are going to be paying way, way over the odds for components.

Adam_MD

juansolo said:

CPC, Farnell and Rapid are good suppliers here for when you start to buy things in a bit more bulk (worthwhile building up a part mountain). Tayda these days are best avoided for anything other than Alpha pots. We occasionally have to use Das Musikding for harder to get hold of parts (we're still waiting for Dr Tweek to return, but I strongly suspect he's long gone now).

At Maplin you are going to be paying way, way over the odds for components.

Much wisdom for all of this.  I only use Tayda for alpha pots, sockets, leds and knobs now.  Bitsbox are also pretty decent if you only need a few parts.

ElectroDan

+1 for the stepped drill bit. Saves having a bag of different sized bits and taking them in and out.
I've built a couple of great boards from Tagboard FX website. I keep meaning to do more.
My biggest hate is getting it all in the enclosure. I tried using double sided sticky pads to attach the board to the back of the pots and using thick tinned copper wire on the pot tags so that the board is held by those. I wouldn't say either approach is perfect.
The small boards you can get to mount 3pdt switches on are great. Even better are the ones with opto-coupler switching or micro-controller relay switching. See here: http://1776effects.com/product-category/pcbs/

juansolo

Generally speaking a lot of PCBs aren't really built with installation in mind. It's something that annoys the crap out of me, but it's just one of those things, so you have to improvise.

IMO, the best mounting method is if the PCB is pot mounted. Made even easier if you use the Tayda Alpha pots as they have little plastic covers on them. If the PCB is built with this in mind, you're golden. I personally use some copper solid core cable to make legs on the pots and mount via those wherever possible. This makes things very solid and secure.

When this is not an option you're left with improvised mountings (especially if you're building on vero or perf). Generally speaking you're using some scotch tape and wire. It's shit, but it's really the only way unless you want to create the special sort of ugly mess that the likes of Devi Ever does and just wrap it in electrical tape and leave it floating in there.

As someone mentioned above, the stomp boards are a great way of making a tidy build. I personally do not like 3PDT stomps, but there are also, as mentioned some nice opto-switching boards out there from the likes of 1776 and Grind, and some less neat but still effective relay ones from the likes of TH Custom. Getting all that done and just leaving 4 wires to the effect makes a huge difference and I highly recommend it.

FWIW there are some tutorials on my site for finishing and some more complex stuff (but it might give you ideas). I'd also suggest going on the Madbean forums. It's a good noob-friendly place to start.

Adam_MD

juansolo said:

I personally use some copper solid core cable to make legs on the pots and mount via those wherever possible. This makes things very solid and secure.

Is that how you're able to mount pcbs which overlap at different heights in some of your multi pedals or do you use something else?  I've been meaning to ask how you did that.  

Also +1 on madbean forums super noob friendly place I've spent the last year data mining that forum via the search function.  

juansolo

Adam_MD said:

juansolo said:

I personally use some copper solid core cable to make legs on the pots and mount via those wherever possible. This makes things very solid and secure.

Is that how you're able to mount pcbs which overlap at different heights in some of your multi pedals or do you use something else?  I've been meaning to ask how you did that.  

Also +1 on madbean forums super noob friendly place I've spent the last year data mining that forum via the search function.  

Yep, exactly that. This one was a bit ridiculous (indeed, I've been asked to make another and I've put it off for well over a year). Had to put shielding and all sorts in there to make that one work properly.

http://juansolo.co.uk/stompage/images/gilmourizer2-i2.jpg

Adam_MD

juansolo said:

Yep, exactly that. This one was a bit ridiculous (indeed, I've been asked to make another and I've put it off for well over a year). Had to put shielding and all sorts in there to make that one work properly.

http://juansolo.co.uk/stompage/images/gilmourizer2-i2.jpg

That is awesome and way beyond my abilities at the minute.  Where do you get your copper wire I'd like to try some for a multi I'm making for myself.

jonnygreentrees

<blockquote class="Quote">

  <div><a rel="nofollow" target="_blank">juansolo</a> said:</div>

  <div>Generally speaking a lot of PCBs aren't really built with installation in mind. It's something that annoys the crap out of me, but it's just one of those things, so you have to improvise.<br><br>IMO, the best mounting method is if the PCB is pot mounted. Made even easier if you use the Tayda Alpha pots as they have little plastic covers on them. If the PCB is built with this in mind, you're golden. I personally use some copper solid core cable to make legs on the pots and mount via those wherever possible. This makes things very solid and secure.<br><br>When this is not an option you're left with improvised mountings (especially if you're building on vero or perf). Generally speaking you're using some scotch tape and wire. It's shit, but it's really the only way unless you want to create the special sort of ugly mess that the likes of Devi Ever does and just wrap it in electrical tape and leave it floating in there.<div><br>As someone mentioned above, the stomp boards are a great way of making a tidy build. I personally do not like 3PDT stomps, but there are also, as mentioned some nice opto-switching boards out there from the likes of 1776 and Grind, and some less neat but still effective relay ones from the likes of TH Custom. Getting all that done and just leaving 4 wires to the effect makes a huge difference and I highly recommend it.</div><div><br>FWIW there are some tutorials on my site for finishing and some more complex stuff (but it might give you ideas). I'd also suggest going on the Madbean forums. It's a good noob-friendly place to start.</div></div>

</blockquote>

@juansolo, mind linking me to the wire you use for this or at least a bit more info? I want to get some so I can do the same thing! 

Cheers

ElectroDan

For connection wires have a look at these https://www.rapidonline.com/Catalogue/Searches?query=wire&amp;filterSearchScope=1&amp;tier=Equipment & Hookup Wires
I'm sure Juan will answer for himself but his look like single core perhaps 1/0.6. It is good for staying in shape after you bend it, but can snap if you nick it with the cutters or bend it about too much.
There is also 16/0.2 or 7/0.2 which are multiple strands of wire in the same insulating sheath (16 strands of 0.2 wire for example). Sometimes 16/0.2 can be a bit big to fit into PCB holes by the time you tin it.
I tend to use a mix of the above. I use solid for shorter or straight runs and the more flexible stranded stuff for longer or looping reaches.

juansolo

The stuff I use is OOP sadly (I bought several reels of it at the time. But it's 1/0.6 as mentioned above. I use it for pots and for connecting things that don't generally move. I tend to use multi-strand ribbon (also OOP, I have a fair stash of cable...) for everything else though that multi is fully solid core by the looks (it can make life easier when things get that complicated).

As mentioned you need to get used to the solid core, you can't over work it or it will snap, but once you get used to it, it's VERY useful stuff.