As the title states I've got a Fender BDRI.
Accidently left it on standby for a few days (not that big of a deal) and came back to it making horrible noises when turned on and played. I've quickly replaced the power tubes with like for like as I thought they might have gone but that has done nothing to help the problem (was praying for a quick fix and need the amp for next week)
I've tried all the variables; different guitar, different cable, different power source etc
Here are 2 videos to aid some sort of online diagnosis if possible.
Amp turned on (a fair bit of hum/buzz):
https://youtu.be/0ljYkmiwfdU Amp turned on and playing (hum/buzz and a crunchy sound when notes are played):
https://youtu.be/oxMXRSNUldQ At the moment the only anomaly I can see is this white matter around the power tube solder joints:
Anyone with any thoughts?
Comments
I can't watch the videos right now, but a common fault with these is a failed filter cap, usually the one under the input jacks - that will cause hum, sometimes odd distortion, or 'motorboating' on the drive channel - if it does that, it's a near certainty.
The white residue isn't anything to worry about.
"Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski
"Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein
Yeah I'm taking it onto the bench on Monday to get it looked at as over the phone the mentioned the same filter cap as a potential source of the problem!
Much appreciate the input!
The white matter is a little concerning. That makes me think the PCB has failed and become conductive. This happens in the Marshall JTM and JCM range a lot. You end up with a short between the control grid (a neg voltage circuit, around -35 to 50V) and the screen grid (a pos circuit, around 350-450V). Obviously a short here wouldn't be good!
If you're comfortable with a DDM, unplug the amp, take the tubes out, and test the resistances between each pin. On a EL34 / 6L6, the main focus is between pin 4 and 5. If should be OL / no reading. If there is any resistance - even 20M ohms - get a tech to drill out the PCB to isolate one or the other.