Another refinish question!

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/14196839/IMG_2156.JPG


So what shall I do with it?

Obviously stripping what's left of the finish is the obvious question, but assume I'm an idiot (it's not far from the truth), what do I need to buy, where from?

Should I touch the (painted) neck, or leave it well alone?
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Comments

  • usedtobeusedtobe Frets: 3841
    Nice bit of wood, there... 
     so if you fancy a reissue of a guitar they never made in a colour they never used then it probably isn't too overpriced.

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  • Looks like mahogany and looks like a fixed neck?  

    Should be straightforward if you just want to get it back to what it probably looked like before  What are the back and sides like and what are they made of? (photos would be helpful)  - and then we can give you some guidance about the easiest and cheapest way of sorting it


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  • DeadmanDeadman Frets: 3851
    Depends what you want it to look like afterwards Chrispy. A good start would be to remove all the hardware and electics then wipe off that existing finish with some thinners (turps or meths won't touch it). If you're painting just flat it back with some 320ish grade ready for grain filler, primer etc to put your colour on.
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  • Hi 
    As already said all parts off strip it back a hot gun or thinners should shift it. 
    I would also strip the neck, dont be surprised if its a maple neck.

    Then if spraying sand level, grain fill (rustins works) sanding sealer, level and spray if you are using cans
    check out the Nitro stuff from Manchester Guitar tech or Northwest guitar and loads of others

    If you are doing an oil based wipe on finish like Wudtone or Truoil keep the sanding a bit coarser to give the oil something to soak into.  you could do an old school Gibson cherry as a wood dye and finish with Truoil. Another finish alternative is wood dye and a home brew wiping varnish, lots of good recipes around the net and although not as shiny as a fully buffed out spray finish you can build it up if you keep the formula more to the varnish side rather than the oil side of the formula you get a harder finish, that when well cured you can buff nicely. 

    If it was me for something different I would reinvent it in old skool TV yellow. 

    I am also jonesing on the Collings dog hair finish for one of my projects

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    What was it when you started Washburn ?

    Jez
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  • AlanPAlanP Frets: 54
    The problem with any bright or light transparent colour, is that it is starting off *brown* underneath...
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16541
    yeah, you can get a nice blue or purple tint going on, but it will always be very dark because of the base colour of the wood

    you can bleach the wood lighter, its quite involved and a bit of a faff.  it lightens the wood enough for better colours, but at best you will be working with a yellow straw coloured base coat rather than the current brown one. Trans blue wood go towards green and purple would probably go back towards brown


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  • I'd not really considered that! Perhaps I'll just oil it then, I like it as it is, if the finish wasn't knackered!

    How shall I strip it? Just sandpaper?
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  • usedtobeusedtobe Frets: 3841
    I think oil's a great idea..
     so if you fancy a reissue of a guitar they never made in a colour they never used then it probably isn't too overpriced.

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  • Can anyone point me in the right direction of what to buy?

    I'm guessing I need a few different kinds of sandpaper?

    What oil is recommended?

    Thanks!
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  • http://www.thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/235/oil-finishes-little-tutorial-for-my-wet-sanded-oil-finish-technique#latest

    If you get the bits @WezV mentions in the thread above you will pretty much have all you need.

    My muse is not a horse and art is not a race.
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