model 33 B&H Zenith archtop (photos added)

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mr-macmr-mac Frets: 200
edited March 2017 in Acoustics
Just wondered really as seen one in nice cond quite cheap.

They were made by framus and this one has a single cutaway and the fret marker inlays are almost whole area between fret and at 1,3,5,7,9,12...  So have a feeling its a higher up model in range.  Action seems very low for an old archtop and metal plate makes it look like has a truss tod.

long term plan something different for slide and acoustic use so will add scratchplate with pickup or neck pickup and probably fit some sort of piezo pickup as well.  Make some removable covers for f-holes for certain gigs/uses.

Like I say just wondered what they were like and if they were decent machines or if I should be looking for something else at lower price points for old archtops?

Thanks
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Comments

  • mr-macmr-mac Frets: 200
    We'll I have it... Condition reasonable... Frets excellent thin with no wear, action every bit as low as modern acoustic with no buzz at all right up board, sounds superb, tbh nice resonant projecting sound (very nice acoustic sound). Plays superbly indeed.  

    even has a zero fret right beside nut (which photos confirm is original).  

    So proud owner of zenith super deluxe cutaway, signature on label still very clear.  

    Next job consider bucker and pizo plus scratch guard with controls :) and may fit an adjustable bridge to fine tune intonation before having original altered or new top bit made to mirror adjustments though it's not far away as is.

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  • mr-macmr-mac Frets: 200
    edited March 2017
    Enjoying it so far... Looking at advert I found quite a difference in prices... The model 17 (Paul McCartney one) originally sold for £14/14'... The model up 19 was £19/19'

    The Super cutaway De Luxe was £27/6' so a fair amount and twice the cost of model 17.  Inflation based on rpi about £600 today although comparing to wage/purchase power of time it would have been eqiv to an £1800-£2100 purchase now.

    will try and upload photos later . Apparently the cutaway features a larger body and f-holes and has a rather nice inlay and fret markers which remind me of a very high quality fountain pen of same era . Also notice unlike pics of cheaper ones the wood or veneer is two piece front and back but on mine (the 33) only back has grain split down middle front is a single piece across whole top (not sure if that means higher quality laminate or if actually means top on 33 is actually not laminate).
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72246
    I'd be highly surprised if any of them aren't all-laminate. As far as I know all that era of German guitars are laminate, right up to the top-of-the-range Hofners - the only exception being the Golden Hofner.

    They can sound very good with a Fishman Powerbridge-type piezo pickup, through a good preamp - and an electric guitar amp for proper vintage tone :).

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • mr-macmr-mac Frets: 200
    Just. wondered as most laminate guitars with an archtop usually have veneer split in two down the middle :)
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  • mr-macmr-mac Frets: 200
    edited March 2017

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  • mr-macmr-mac Frets: 200
    edited March 2017
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  • mr-macmr-mac Frets: 200
    edited March 2017
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72246
    mr-mac said:
    Just. wondered as most laminate guitars with an archtop usually have veneer split in two down the middle :)
    Not always, generally only the fancier ones. The back more often is because they're duplicating a bookmatched maple back.

    It looks nice in the pic!

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • mr-macmr-mac Frets: 200
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  • mr-macmr-mac Frets: 200

    Not the best pic but you can see the zero fret which was standard looking at other pics of them.  Also the proper inlay (doesn't show up well here) but it's same pearl celluloid as the fret markers (Similar to quality fountain pen of era)


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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72246
    Very pretty decal and inlay.

    Is the nut a replacement? It may just be the pic but it looks like a typical cheap modern moulded one, and the E strings are a bit close to the sides of the fingerboard (low E especially).

    If it has been changed it may have been a classic German 3-ply laminate one originally, that would look really nice.

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • mr-macmr-mac Frets: 200
    edited March 2017

    Would heel of neck or body just beside it be best for forward strap button?  or somewhere else?  already a wooden rear one pegged into a hole so gonna cut peg flush and glue in then pop metal step button where it was I guess... looks like a bit of wear on cog wheels in pegs but all work perfectly, no jumps or slipping.

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  • mr-macmr-mac Frets: 200
    edited March 2017
    ICBM said:
    Very pretty decal and inlay.

    Is the nut a replacement? It may just be the pic but it looks like a typical cheap modern moulded one, and the E strings are a bit close to the sides of the fingerboard (low E especially).

    If it has been changed it may have been a classic German 3-ply laminate one originally, that would look really nice.

    Nah looks seriously old, shape has been worn away to top of string 6 but still stops it coming out and as it's a zero fret I ain't too fussed... Just exposure in photo I reckon
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  • mr-macmr-mac Frets: 200
    Inlay is lovely proper 50's quality celluloid really dramatic 3d depth to the pearloid pattern in it matching fret markers
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  • mr-macmr-mac Frets: 200
    What does three ply look like?
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72246

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • mr-macmr-mac Frets: 200
    Nah defo white in this advert http://garydeaconguitar.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/vintage-1957-zenith-guitars-advertisment.html?m=1. And like is say condition, wear, degredation of outer surface it looks every bit of it's 60yr old.  As does the white material on bridge which is starting to degrade badly where slots were particularly and either edge.  Just trying to decide best route for bridge... Could probs add pins with correct spacing to lower half to accept abr style.
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  • mr-macmr-mac Frets: 200
    Must get a photo of label inside as seems quite rare the signature is still visible as most say its faded
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 72246
    mr-mac said:
    Could probs add pins with correct spacing to lower half to accept abr style.
    Don't, it will sound horrible.

    The solid ebony Powerbridge is the best solution if you need to replace the bridge anyway, and it gives you a pickup too :).

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • mr-macmr-mac Frets: 200
    Yes but don't see any intonation adjustment at all... Was actually starting to wonder if the bass piezo they have in the height adjust wheels or something designed to sit under where bridge touches body may be better as can have a upper bridge sorted for perfect intonation but also get quality pickup....
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