A right pair of Basses

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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 24579
    I decided to rub back some of the lacquer once touch dry to get some shading - some areas darker, some lighter, like an old aged neck that had seen many a smokey club and many a dirty hand..



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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 24579
    It didn't take long to dry acceptably in the sun this afternoon. So eventually it was brought in for some treatment:



    Quite dark, but I like it like that!
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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 24579
    First thing I wanted to do was give it some proper ageing before everything hardened off too much. First thing was neck wear - which was some 600 grit wet and dry, and some 0000 steel wool:


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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 24579
    This followed a liberal application of knocks, bangs, scrapes and dings, and some general wear and tear:





    I've done it this early so that I could 'rub' some of the not-hard-yet nitro off to give a more subtle effect and not so much "belt sander"
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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 24579
    It's now hardening a bit more in the sun, before being put aside for a while:










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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 24579
    Once it's hardened off I can get the t-cut out and give it a proper buffing in places to bring out the shine to give a hint of it's former sparkly new past ;)
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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 24579
    GSPBASSES said:
    Alder doesn't really need any sort of grain filler, I would go clear with a black scratch plate as per John Deacon.
    Oooh, clear - interesting choice.. one for the list :)
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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 24579
    edited August 2017
    This is the tint I was going for (but not the level of relic tho!!)



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  • slackerslacker Frets: 2216
    slacker said:
    Relic'd black over gold with a gold scratchplate. 
    Got a MiM in exactly that! I love the look, but not sure I could have two the same....


    Lovely. I'll take that boring sunburst one off you for 4p and a Kit Kat. 
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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 24579
    slacker said:
    slacker said:
    Relic'd black over gold with a gold scratchplate. 
    Got a MiM in exactly that! I love the look, but not sure I could have two the same....


    Lovely. I'll take that boring sunburst one off you for 4p and a Kit Kat. 
    Wow that sounds like a great.....  hang on...
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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 24579
    I reckon this might just work...


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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 24579
    Sanding sealer on the body today. 

    I decided I needed a makeshift body holding contraption, and once done, it was on with the sealer!








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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 24579
    Cor, Alder is thirsty...

    Leaving it to dry then another coat tomorrow I think!!
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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 24579
    Relic tip for all you would-be relic'ers!!

    When you expose wood surface after painting it can look very bright and "new" - esp. Maple. 

    To age it up, I use a 6B pencil, rub it on, and then use a finger to rub it in. Gives a nice silvery dark aged look. For a much deeper dirt in deep scratches, a bit of shoe polish rubbed in looks reasonably authentic:




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  • fftcfftc Frets: 559
    Looking good.

    Did you get the neck in the same width and profile as your oldest P? Is that possible?
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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 24579
    fftc said:
    Looking good.

    Did you get the neck in the same width and profile as your oldest P? Is that possible?
    Yes, it's the same profile and it's 1.75" nut width
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  • AlnicoAlnico Frets: 4616
    fftc said:
    Looking good.

    Did you get the neck in the same width and profile as your oldest P? Is that possible?
    Yes, it's the same profile and it's 1.75" nut width
    I love the fact that my first ever bass guitar has those specs !

    I've wanted a bass for decades but never made the time for one.
    This feels awesome. 

    Mine won't be done until after Mark finishes his first but it'll be quite a different flavour.
    A bit more modern in feel with things like a high mass bridge and no relicing but I am having the grain filler omitted so the paint sinks and it will look (hopefully) old but barely used with some modern parts fitted.
    My neck will have the same deep honey tint that Marks has though. That looks stunning.

    I'm having the same colour scheme that my strat has.
    Olympic white with black plastics and chrome hardware.

    I've got one of Marks guitars already, my 60s relic Telecaster and it's an honour to own it.
    This will be another one that he makes to the same incredible standard and because it's my first bass guitar it feels even more special.

    Thanks Mark.
    I'm really stoked about this.
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  • fftcfftc Frets: 559
    fftc said:
    Looking good.

    Did you get the neck in the same width and profile as your oldest P? Is that possible?
    Yes, it's the same profile and it's 1.75" nut width
    Ah.
    I played a custom shop P in a shop a few weeks ago and the neck was just perfect. It was supposedly a '55 P-Bass soft V, with 1.75" nut and 7.25" radius.

    You've got me thinking now..........

    Remind me where that thread was you profiled your necks? Was it here or over on BC?
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  • RolandRoland Frets: 8590
    This thread has been a real shock. Not the relicing, but seeing what looks like my own garden seat and table with someone else's guitar on it. 
    Tree recycler, and guitarist with  https://www.undercoversband.com/.
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  • BridgehouseBridgehouse Frets: 24579
    fftc said:
    fftc said:
    Looking good.

    Did you get the neck in the same width and profile as your oldest P? Is that possible?
    Yes, it's the same profile and it's 1.75" nut width
    Ah.
    I played a custom shop P in a shop a few weeks ago and the neck was just perfect. It was supposedly a '55 P-Bass soft V, with 1.75" nut and 7.25" radius.

    You've got me thinking now..........

    Remind me where that thread was you profiled your necks? Was it here or over on BC?
    Over on BC.. It was this thread:

    http://basschat.co.uk/topic/302748-wide-necked-precisions/page__st__30

    However, for the interested, here's the picture:



    I would say the 1.75" nut with 7.25 radius and shallow C profile (just as they made them from about '54 through to about '68 is pretty much perfect for me. 
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