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Do You Use Strat Neck Pup Tone Control?

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  • bbill335bbill335 Frets: 1372
    edited November 2017
    thegummy said:

    Off topic but I wouldn't actually recommend the blender knob as it's inconvenient and cumbersome.
    That's why I'm thinking a toggle switch would be easier (I'm just not sure which type). If I can get to bridge-only from every setting reasonably easily, I'm good.
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  • I never touch the tone knob on any of my guitars, I never see the need for it, one of LP's has the tone pot cut so the bridge pickup goes straight to the volume output which results in a hotter signal. I like it that way.
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  • crunchmancrunchman Frets: 11446

    On mine, the neck tone is actually a push-push that allows me to add the neck pickup to any position.  I mainly use it to get neck and bridge on together.   That's actually a 300kOhm pot so it's probably a bit brighter than stock.

    I then have a no load tone pot wired to both bridge and middle.  I do think about changing the middle over to share the neck tone, but I'll probably leave it as it is.

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  • ESBlondeESBlonde Frets: 3582
    I converted my old strat to a 5 way switch from the original 3 way 70s thing, the tone controls are unchanged. I use the mid tone on about 3+ with that in between sound bridge+middle PU to get it fatter. The neck PU is always on 10. Playing dynamics and style cover everything else.
    Other guitars also get the tone knob twiddled, the Tele particularly responds well to the tone control.
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  • thegummythegummy Frets: 4389
    bbill335 said: 
    thegummy said:

    Off topic but I wouldn't actually recommend the blender knob as it's inconvenient and cumbersome.
    That's why I'm thinking a toggle switch would be easier (I'm just not sure which type). If I can get to bridge-only from every setting reasonably easily, I'm good.
    My initial thought was to take one of the tone knobs off and install a switch in that hole (prompting this thread). After playing about with the neck tone I've decided I like it so was going to drill a hole for a switch.

    The S1 switch is, in theory, a perfect neat solution but is expensive and I've read a few reports of it being unreliable.

    Despite this, I've bit the bullet and ordered one. If it breaks, I'll go the hole drilling route but if it works it should be a nice solution.

    As long as it's wired as a bridge-on rather than neck-on, switching to position 1 will always get you to bridge only regardless of the position of the toggle/S1.
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