C18Q1 Learn electronics and build a pedal

axisus · January 2018

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Philtre · January 2018

I've ordered the parts from Tayda. In the meantime I need to:

Find a drilling template (4 knobs, LED, and toggle switch as well as stomp switch and in/out jacks)
Do I need a stepped uni bit drill set like this one http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mrq2l0VnKd_gQe-btX-h60w.jpg - if so, what bit sizes

Any advice, pedal-making experts?

Danny1969 · January 2018

I have a few stepped bits like that, a Cone Cutter is also a useful tool for sizes between steps. As is a reamer. For marking an automatic centre punch is a good tool
I tend to print the pedal finish as a vinyl sticker and that has the drill points on it so there's no real marking out once the first one is done

Adam_MD · January 2018

Try this one from fuzzdog for a Timmy you’ll need to move the toggle switch though as it sits higher in an enclosure than the pots. I’d move it up between the top two pots then secure the vero on the bottom two pots. It’s on the last page.

http://pedalparts.co.uk/docs/Candyman-V3.pdf

Get a stepped drill bit with 6, 8, 10 and 12mm and use a regular 3mm drill bit for pilot holes.

If you’re going to do graphics for your pedals on water slide or self adhesive labels and don’t have photoshop GIMP is a pretty decent free alternative. I use it for all of mine.

Philtre · January 2018

Cheers @Danny1969 and @Adam_MD

Would this set be OK, or is it cheap junk?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Zacro-Titanium-Drill-Automatic-Center/dp/B01J590QVE/ref=sr_1_5?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1515419851&sr=1-5&keywords=Step+Drill+Bit

Adam_MD · January 2018

They look like the ones I bought from amazon 3 years ago and they’ve been working fine. You’re drilling through aluminium which is pretty soft so they’ll be fine.

Danny1969 · January 2018

My stepped cone cutters came from Aldi's supermarket Phil. to be honest most pedal enclosures are made from soft alloy so very easy to drill. Hard to say what the quality of those is like, probably be fine for alloy

Philtre · January 2018

In the end I ordered a more expensive punch and stepped drill bit:

Centre Punch - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/292149595148
Stepped Bit - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351908608433

Everything is ordered, so now it's just a waiting game. In the meantime I'm thinking about where to pit the knobs, sockets and switches on the enclosure:

Power socket on the top or the side? I prefer the top, and realise this means to be careful about how much room it takes when positioning the 4 knobs and LED
LED in the centre of the 4 knobs, or by the side of the stomp switch?
Mini-switch above the 4 knobs?

Pondering...

poopot · January 2018

My timmy clone I built a few years back if it helps with layout!. (excuse the insides, was one of the first pedals I built).

http://a64.tinypic.com/f3tfuq.jpg

http://a67.tinypic.com/2r7vgqb.jpg

Philtre · January 2018

@poopot Thanks for sharing. I'll be happy if mine looks like that! :-)

aord43 · January 2018

Just seen this thread, so here's my input.
Congratulations on it working first time on breadboard, nice work

I have built a couple of FX from http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/ which has loads of layouts. I started simple with a FuzzFace clone, and followed up with a tubescreamer, slightly modded, based on a lot of info around the web.
As regards hardware - the components I normally get from Rapid, and some from bargain bags on ebay
I just used normal drill bits. I have a cheapy drill stand I got years ago in Lidl which helps a lot.
The worst part for me is getting it neat inside the box. My standard pattern is LED next to the stomp switch, mainly because it's just held there with a resistor and it's soldered to the switch - pokes through a hole in the box and just stays there.
Input and output jack sockets on the left and right, and power input at the top.
Make sure you get the small potentiometers, they will take up too much space otherwise.
Lastly, I found I had to add some stuff to handle hum from the power supply. There are generic circuits around, basically a highish-power, low-value resistor plus a couple of diodes and a large capacitor.

Philtre · January 2018

Thanks for your input @aord43 very helpful. :-)

Make sure you get the small potentiometers, they will take up too much space otherwise.

I hope this type is OK:

http://www.taydaelectronics.com/potentiometer-variable-resistors/rotary-potentiometer/logarithmic/10k-ohm-logarithmic-taper-potentiometer-round-shaft-solder-lugs-13579.html

The vero layout I'm going to use is the third one here:

http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/2012/03/paul-cochrane-timmy.html

stickyfiddle · January 2018

poopot said:

My timmy clone I built a few years back if it helps with layout!. (excuse the insides, was one of the first pedals I built).

http://a64.tinypic.com/f3tfuq.jpg

http://a67.tinypic.com/2r7vgqb.jpg

No need for excuses - I've seen "professional" fx builders selling FAR worse than that!!

Danny1969 · January 2018

I like a nice tidy layout myself ... I was quite pleased with this one

Image: http://thesuperheroesonline.co.uk/mess.JPG

Philtre · January 2018

Those electrons must get dizzy...

Philtre · January 2018

BTW - do folk prefer non-leaded solder to leaded?

Adam_MD · January 2018

If you ordered a 1590b you’ll struggle to get the jacks at the top you’d really need a 125b for thst for the extra height clearance.

aord43 · January 2018

Danny1969 said:

I like a nice tidy layout myself ... I was quite pleased with this one

Ha, Spiders and spaghetti, that's kind of what mine look like too. Although I'm impressed you managed to even get some knots in there

!

aord43 · January 2018

stickyfiddle said:

poopot said:

My timmy clone I built a few years back if it helps with layout!. (excuse the insides, was one of the first pedals I built).

http://a64.tinypic.com/f3tfuq.jpg

http://a67.tinypic.com/2r7vgqb.jpg

No need for excuses - I've seen "professional" fx builders selling FAR worse than that!!

I think that one is beautifully neat!!!

aord43 · January 2018

Philtre said:

Thanks for your input @aord43 very helpful. :-)

Make sure you get the small potentiometers, they will take up too much space otherwise.

I hope this type is OK:

http://www.taydaelectronics.com/potentiometer-variable-resistors/rotary-potentiometer/logarithmic/10k-ohm-logarithmic-taper-potentiometer-round-shaft-solder-lugs-13579.html

The vero layout I'm going to use is the third one here:

http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/2012/03/paul-cochrane-timmy.html

Those pots look nice and small (16mm) so yes, you should be good.

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