One Piece Maple Tele Neck Build, (No CNC)

johnP_90 · February 2018

Hi Folks,

I am a newbie having joined the forum in 2016 but not posted anything yet, apart from "Introduce Yourself as busy on MLP Forum doing Gibsonish builds. I did manage sending a few of them to sleep posting my Fenderish stuff and did a "one piece neck" post on there a few years ago. Anyway the Tele neck bug has returned and need to re-learn how I did them as a tad rusty.

The maple neck blank has been cut to just over 1" thick to allow for fingerboard radius to be cut later and 1/4" headstock tuner drillings done, but left at not full depth as I need to use them to screw down to various jigs later on. First up is the "upside down" truss rod channel using a 1/4" radius cutter. This is cut to 5/8" at the heel end and 3/4" at the nut end.

https://i.imgur.com/rAGJ3Me.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ABW7q6V.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ulBQXKt.jpg

After the headstock face has been band sawed to just over 1/2" the 3/8" anchor drilling can be made at 3 degrees, using this jig. The 3/8" drilling goes to 3/8 or 9mm in front of the nut face where the anchor will sit as it is "heel adjust vintage", man....

https://i.imgur.com/jJ5X3UQ.jpg

The steel insert is changed for the 5mm one and the drilling is continued until it joins the truss rod channel, hopefully at the right place!

https://i.imgur.com/IJ6sZlZ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/TBF083P.jpg

A bit of router shank burn ah hem but it has come out nicely into the channel. Same again now for the heel end, also a 3/8" to 1 1/8" deep drilling for the 1" long adjuster nut + washer, then 5mm drilling to connect to the channel.
https://i.imgur.com/5CcBs0Y.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/iQWolqj.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/BLeEMlQ.jpg

Now the headstock face and transition are drum sanded now all the drillings are done.

https://i.imgur.com/W410NTO.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/o05rk69.jpg

Now to make a truss rod, I have a bunch of 3/16 mild steel rods and some anchor's made from 3/8" steel rod that need 10-32NF threads cut. (The bar used to make the anchor is lying on top of the vice, enough left for a few more! Grin)

https://i.imgur.com/PQT7Ujt.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/0WFevJt.jpg

Peened over with a center punch and test fitted.

https://i.imgur.com/qtkMtGG.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ov3ZJdW.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/va34GCI.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/N4aSpBI.jpg

I dont bother with shrink wrap tube any more as think it sucks Tone. If the rod is partially tight under tension it is locked into the curved recess and it ain't going to rattle! As a precaution against rust and any glue ingress I heat the rod and wipe a paraffin wax candle all over the rod, this should lube it a tad as well as help with moisture.

https://i.imgur.com/FKaeT5S.jpg

All in snug now, a gibbo type rod for comparison. (I used it to check the adjuster nut fitted, and pull it out!)

https://i.imgur.com/H5KteIf.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/n6PsqAH.jpg

Now I can glue in the walnut dowel to lock the anchor in place, this is 10mm dowel reduced to 9.5mm or 3/8.

https://i.imgur.com/JBDBIrl.jpg

I have some nice walnut 1/4" sheet and 10mm dowel from a hobby shop but fancy some "American Black Walnut" for the skunk stripe fillet. Luckily I have 1 last off cut left from a big board just long enough to bandsaw into 1/4 strips tomorrow.

https://i.imgur.com/grFoeMR.jpg

I also have a fair bit of hard "rock maple" and a board of Eastern Curly Maple (Acer Rubrumn) on the bottom of the stack. This neck is a dry run then I want to build some Flame Maple necks as well. These will be "2 piece" however with rosewood finger boards and no skunk stripe.

https://i.imgur.com/5b4l8bt.jpg

I checked with Mike at CurlyMaple.Com to what species the Curly Maple boards were I had purchased for tops mainly. He confirmed it is eastern red maple acer rubrumn that is almost as hard as rock maple acer saccurum. Some Tone Wood vendors sell "flame maple neck blanks" that are Western Bigleaf Maple or Acer Macrophyllum that IMHO is too soft for necks, although violin makers use it by all accounts. Just my 10 cents....

I will post some more when I have the black walnut ready to glue in the skunk strip and a bit more progress made, fingers crossed.

Cheers, John

johnP_90 · February 2018

Sorry about the first attempt at posting folks! Photobucket nonsense, had to move over to "IMGUR" to get anything to work and a new learning curve... Got there in the end!

axisus · February 2018

Nice work and very tidy job compared to my stuff! I wish I had your workspace.

TTony · February 2018

Thanks for sharing the detailed post.

Looks like a lot of time invested in the jig too.

Danielsguitars · February 2018

Hooray John you've finally started to post some fender type build stuff up

His jazz tele was absolutely fucking superb imo, one that I'd actually want, I did post a pic up ages ago
His other fender stuff he's done is great too

I'll see you soon for a catch up

mikem8634 · February 2018

johnP_90 said:

Hi Folks,

...

I will post some more when I have the black walnut ready to glue in the skunk strip and a bit more progress made, fingers crossed.

Cheers, John

Wow great stuff there.

Also, loving that Starcaster neck - I know they are anathema to some, but I just love the headstock shape - cool as can be.

johnP_90 · February 2018

Thanks folks fer the interest, axisus, TTony, Milkem and Darren at Custom Guitars (& kits) for kind word and recommending this Forum. I met Darren aka "valvetoneman" via My Les Paul Forum and ended buying a killer 15W Trinity Amp "Plexi" build, with power scaling. Have been indebted since as a lovely amp and even makes my playing sound kinda good, grin.

Some progress with the neck and hope to get the finger board radiused tomorrow now the skunk stripe fillet is glued in, then some fret work fun. I made up some black walnut 1/4" strips on the band saw after marking of the curve from the router jig rails, then finished them to thickness with a sharp plane and sanded the inner radius smooth.

https://i.imgur.com/hHXh9G9.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/CkmJQUX.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/GO3QbTT.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/krwy7dt.jpg

Now planed flush and looking tidy.

https://i.imgur.com/ZL7xQ0i.jpg

The headstock transition curve has been sanded after the walnut plug was cut flush-ish then drum sanded to 3/16" behind the nut.
https://i.imgur.com/PKsJPmU.jpg

Heres "one I made earlier" or about 5 years ago to be precise, I built 2 identical Teles, one for my daughter, the "Natzcaster" and this one for myself with BKP underwound "Bluenote" P-90's giving up some proper P-90 grunt n chime. I made a batch of 3 one piece necks in all shortly after building the jig a few years ago. I does strat type necks as well!

https://i.imgur.com/frfkujh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/j3h1ZnW.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/UxJcOCs.jpg

Talking of jigs this one was a bit of a SOB to get right, it will get used tomorrow to radius the fingerboard with a router, only built to do a 7.25" to 9.80" compound taper. I love the vintage feel in the lower position and low action with no fret buzz or "noting out". The cone radius at the bridge is just shy of 12" to set the bridge saddles too, and goes 7.25 at the nut to 9.80" at the 21st fret, if that makes sense....

https://i.imgur.com/FfwMA8O.jpg

I will post some more when I radius the board hopefully tomorrow when I have the jig dialed in and set up right. I did another jig for 9.5" cylinder radius but have never used it as the compound taper is much better, and looks vintage correct 7.25 until you play it! Grin...

Tah John

johnP_90 · February 2018

I am still getting used to imgur and this new forum so please excuse a couple of clunky posts as getting there slowly. I have not used these jigs for a couple of years so needed a bit of "dialing in" and double checking everything. I'm now happy everything is lining up properly on the radiusing jig, I only need to remove just over 1mm to get it to final thickness of 25.40mm or 1" in the old money.
https://i.imgur.com/f5nGSaF.jpg

There is a small drilling for an indexing pin that also acts as a screw hole to mount the heel end on the jig.
https://i.imgur.com/tjbBsAU.jpg

And another screw locates the headstock using the tuner drillings.
https://i.imgur.com/03DXzN4.jpg

Then the top is screw down on center line and each end checked for equal depth at each end, )the rear rotor bearing has an adjuster bolt to raise and lower the carrier to square).
https://i.imgur.com/DWm3GBn.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/oloIBt5.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/WWmlhux.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/7yaxpWz.jpg

The first pass is nearly done, half a turn on the turn buckle moves the carriage aprox. 1/16" or a couple of mm.
https://i.imgur.com/Wncn738.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/NsHgxac.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/WLKn1lh.jpg

This is the good bit, both ends are equal at 25.5mm.
https://i.imgur.com/8XthDJ4.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/WzbFix4.jpg

My new longer round nose cutter arrived today and had to be tested on the off- cut from the neck blank.The one I had used for this neck was a tad short to chuck in properly and wobbled a fraction widening the cut a fraction.
https://i.imgur.com/elS4qvv.jpg
The new channel is nice and clean and no burn from shaft.
https://i.imgur.com/9F95VZ4.jpg

I can now use my 1/4" walnut sheet that matches the dowel plug and fits perfect.
https://i.imgur.com/6iJy3K8.jpg

Sorry this is getting a bit picture heavy, but the "small things" matter, ah hem, grin (and tad obsessive) On with the neck build, next is the fret slotting jig that takes the Stew Mac Fender 25.5" and various 2 3/4" Gibson steel slotting templates, 25.5" for this one...
https://i.imgur.com/4Pn6dsE.jpg

This is the indexing pin that locates the neck heel end.
https://i.imgur.com/ldWGn2G.jpg

The head end is located on center with a modified screw to fit the 1/4" drillings, this locks it down to jig.
https://i.imgur.com/qKb2XcB.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/w1fXq6Q.jpg

All slots are cut now, the saw depth stop is set to just over the .062" fret tang height or the 2nd line on the little depth checker.
https://i.imgur.com/3vnwSGy.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/rTYY1wN.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/xhCHOZT.jpg

This is the stew mac template from underneath...
https://i.imgur.com/VkwajZo.jpg

And the indexing pin..
https://i.imgur.com/gxi0FvT.jpg

I made this jig a few years ago to take the entire neck for doing one piece necks as my little stew mac mitre box jig only took fret boards and needed something bigger. Final shot of today's work, next up is the dot inlays, if I have not run out of black dowel rod, hmmm.
https://i.imgur.com/JVS13Eg.jpg

More soonish,

John

Danielsguitars · February 2018

That's looking good John, jazz club nice

BigMonka · February 2018

@johnP_90 I love threads like this - it's brilliant to watch :-)

johnP_90 · February 2018

Thanks BigMonka & customkits, "jazz Club" it is, nice.....all going well and no drama's

I've got the dot markers in, 1/4" with 3/32" side dots like on the old Black Guard necks, also 1" center to center on 12th fret dots. pre '52 they were 5/8" spacing but changed to 1" from 54 on apparently until early 60's when went back to 5/8", for a while!

I like the 1" spacing as the 2nd and 5th strings cover the centers and just look tidier.
https://i.imgur.com/Qqq1wQj.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ceWJl1g.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/uxLK1ns.jpg

All dots are in now, I found these "whip tips" fits the cyano tube nicely and allow just a small amount without flooding.
https://i.imgur.com/IiflkaD.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/TJ6RFKs.jpg

1" spacing on 12th dots.
https://i.imgur.com/KkqzMwb.jpg

Nut width is a tad over 42mm allowing for final sanding. (Vintage Tele's were 1.65" or 41.91mm at the nut according to Musikraft web site and later fender necks or modern ones 42.86mm).
https://i.imgur.com/THB759t.jpg

The heel is 55.75mm a tad over 55.56mm which is industry standard for Telecasters.
https://i.imgur.com/4RNyBkp.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/YN7oakx.jpg

The rock maple I am using was re-sawn from a 2" board back in 2011 and each billet stored indoors so is now positively "vintage" man, and well dried and stable. I still have a fair bit left but need to get some more pretty soon.
https://i.imgur.com/xKD6RW8.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/jvDMnCK.jpg

Next up is fret work, I will be using Jescar 6105 wire which is tall/skinny wire at .090" x .055" tall and my favorite fret wire as dresses to around .050" tall after fret leveling, jazz club nice.......

Cheers, John

GluedtoMusic · February 2018

These jigs are awesome, great looking work.

johnP_90 · February 2018

Thanks Neil fer the appreciation, the jigs became an obsession one winter after watching Bill Schelema's YouTube post "One Piece Neck Build" video including jigs: Took ages to build the jigs mind but had to be done as sick of heavy 2 way truss rods that steal woody tone imho.

Anyway on with the neck, I am doing this in between things at the mo hence it doing in stages. The frets went in today so a few pics on how I go about prepping the wire and board before gluing and pressing. I use Titebond on maple boards as cyano has a nasty habit of wicking up the slot and staining/sealing the fingerboard looking a dogs dinner on staining and spraying. Also any over spill wipes of with a damp sponge cloth.

To work properly thorough de-greasing of the wire is a must.
https://i.imgur.com/K4hoTMe.jpg

Tops of slots lightly beveled with a file. The finger board edges have also been sanded to break the hard edge a give a very narrow radius or "rolled edge". It cannot be more at this stage or the fret ends will not seat properly, when the edges are filed and beveled the "rolled edge" can be finished of as part of the beveling but very lightly or you will loose some fret width.....ah hem.
https://i.imgur.com/H4ceoRm.jpg

The titebond is mixed 1/3 with water to thin it out a little and a bead run into each slot with syringe.
https://i.imgur.com/CrGZx9b.jpg

Fret edges tapped down lightly...
https://i.imgur.com/VvwlmFS.jpg

And pressed in using a 7.25" caul (its a compound 7.25 - 9.80" radius)
https://i.imgur.com/YM5XoUu.jpg

Now doing 3 at a time..
https://i.imgur.com/5ln1nDk.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/cx8cmUN.jpg

Notice the small bead of glue squeeze out under the tang, not on the fingerboard. Before I change over to the 9.5" radius pressing caul I tap all the centers down that are slightly high at this point on then change to the 9.5" caul for the rest of them
https://i.imgur.com/3WhP4Dn.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/NxxJhaN.jpg

The final job is checking each fret in 3 positions and taping snug any high points with Henry the fretting hammer.
https://i.imgur.com/eG0rpLr.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/rXKmV3g.jpg

I have also tapped over the edges slightly prior to checking with the fret rocker, this seats the end of the fret firmly over the tiny radiused edge of the board. When the frets are beveled it will be to the top of this small edge curve, if that makes sense....
https://i.imgur.com/GCgSK2f.jpg

You can see the slight edge radius better in this picture,
https://i.imgur.com/cx8cmUN.jpg

I will bang on some more about it soon when I cut the fret ends and file the edge bevels. More in a few days.

Cheers, John.

PS On the subject of "rolled edge" on fenderish necks (and any decent neck with no abrupt edge) it has be be very subtle before the frets go in or loose some playing area on the fret, causing the E strings to "fall off" the edge. That or 8 pints usually does the trick! Ah hem......

If anyone is interested here is a link to Bill Scheltema's jig and neck tutorial I borrowed/stole to build my jigs. Sorry for all the edits as posting this video link became a bit of a mare. The links to all his videos show up after the introduction ends. (I only wanted to post the soddin' Link!)

Danielsguitars · February 2018

johnP_90 · February 2018

Thanks fer fixing that link Darren, it kept working, then not working, no good deed goes unpunished lol.

I have had to take a couple of days out so only recently got around to finishing of Ze Fretwork, excuse a picture heavy post as my favourite bit of the neck build, and also the most time consuming. After cutting the wire flush I bevel the end by hand right up to the edge radius until brushing on the wood. (Yesterday evening)
https://i.imgur.com/0AtU5tl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/txXJHHh.jpg

As it is sunny I am doing the fretwork on a handy tall surface in my kitchen, facing south where the light is better than my workshop lighting. First up is removing any burr's and rounding the fret ends, this can be done after fret leveling when the final rounding and polishing is done.
https://i.imgur.com/iBhGudg.jpg

This small triangle fret file has "safe" rounded edge so it doesnt mark the wood.
https://i.imgur.com/qe5hiPz.jpg#

Next the neck is "read" and truss rod tightened until the very small relief disappeared in the middle and dead flat.
https://i.imgur.com/b3tsSZq.jpg

Now onto the fret leveling, I use a dead straight aluminum beam that used to be my bandsaw fence with 3M gold self stick P-320 abrasive paper. This is used by sanding parallel with the neck edges i.e. following the string lines as this is a 7.25" to 9.80" compound or "cone" taper on the finger board. If it was a 9.5" or 7.25" cylinder radius you would sand down the center line if that makes sense....(I used to do this after carving the neck but found it makes little odds and tends to go back into a small "up bow" when the neck is carved.)
https://i.imgur.com/RPEiuHW.jpg

At this stage it is mostly done but I am taping off the 12th fret area and leveling beam to remove a couple of thou' from the last few upper frets creating a very small fall away.
https://i.imgur.com/0qECG8J.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/oTvYWBl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4TS97TY.jpg

Then fret crowning or rounding. I use just the 2 smaller triangle files as remove any shoulder from the flats better than the round diamond ones do, and quicker. I use the diamond one last just to finish of the radius.
https://i.imgur.com/EWgbnSZ.jpg

Medium file.
https://i.imgur.com/3WprT5j.jpg

Now the tiny one with very fine cut..
https://i.imgur.com/h20SMQ6.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/zUbOCcK.jpg

This has left just a very narrow line that I remove with the diamond file, then notched sanding sticks with P400 then P500 grit sanding belts to remove the file marks and finish of the crown radius.
https://i.imgur.com/QOPUmpV.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/xMBouH2.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/kMYtGDP.jpg

Just showing the filed notches on the sanding stick, these conform nicely to the inside radius and the top radius to sand the whole fret, not just the top. I then use 0000 fine wire wool to polish the tops and bevels then a bit of metal polish on the tops.
https://i.imgur.com/LF2rbeF.jpg

Notice the daylight is long gone.... hmmm, told yer it takes time lol. Tape is now removed and frets cleaned with lighter fluid to remove polish and metal residue that will melt into clear lacquer.
https://i.imgur.com/e0vveHv.jpg

Now to finish off the "rolled edge" by hand with a small sanding stick and p400 self stick paper.
https://i.imgur.com/7KlqMll.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Ywt0PJY.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/wjk3f5n.jpg

Nearly bed time now! The lighting not so good indoors now, I still need to dress a couple of fret ends that still feel a tad sharp on the hand but fret work mostly done now. The hard bit is after several coats of nitro lacquer sanding in between frets getting it all nice and smooth.... Rosewood boards are a walk in park in terms of man hours and work required, maple needs a lot of prep work. Next up is cutting the back taper and the neck carve which is always nice to do, seeing it become a neck at last....

Cheers, John.

Danielsguitars · February 2018

really nice work, now I'm just gassing for a tele and it's all your fault

Sesh · February 2018

Stunning work. Thanks for sharing.

johnP_90 · February 2018

Thanks "Sesh" and customkits Darren. You started it mate! Grin... also got me into more gibbo stuff...... Talking of which, I have been a big fan of the '59 Roundback LP neck C profile over recent years, .860" 1st fret & .970"ish at 12th fret that I have been using on Tele's and Gibson scale necks to good effect. The last few necks have had a mild V carve added to the roundback to remove some shoulder and felt very nice while still remaining chunky monkeys. A bit like the Clapton V but chunkier.

Anyway I decided it would be a good time to make a better carve template before starting on the neck carve, the Musikraft 57V .86-.96" looks very close to what I am after and suspect it's another classic Gibbo profile as they did a lot of soft V carves in the day.
https://i.imgur.com/gqPnH0V.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/rVmh0f9.jpg

I copied these profile from a well known web site ah hem, and scaled them up by 186% on my printer and bang on scale now to make a template. I am using some 2mm scrap strip of Limba to glue the paper template too.
https://i.imgur.com/7v1YM4R.jpg

A nice fit now...
https://i.imgur.com/xdE6tdd.jpg

This is the build I did last summer where the scrap Limba wood came from, a modded SC version of my 336 build, the templates are close to the V carve I did by eye on this neck.
https://i.imgur.com/4qdVQ5I.jpg

The top, she got to have her 15 minutes..... grin
https://i.imgur.com/5CLaLMb.jpg

Here is her big Sister, the DC 336 I built the year before after talking ES-335 stuff with Darren at CustomKits, I couldn't afford the dosh for one of Ken McKay's lovely kits, and did carved top and back instead. It's all Darrens fault, honest!
https://i.imgur.com/hFZ22yk.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Tl0NBxO.jpg

This has more of a C carve with some shoulder removed.
https://i.imgur.com/kic1P8m.jpg

I forgot to add, this 57V profile is similar to some Black Guard Tele necks from the 50's
https://i.imgur.com/I81FCX5.jpg

Heres some bedtime reading material that got all this started.......
https://i.imgur.com/AHt2RQw.jpg

This is the plan for the CS-336 I got from "Gibsonish Designs" Jamie Urden that started these 2 builds of, I had to move the F holes a tad more center and pot holes but pretty close, and cheaper than the custom shop one ah hem....
https://i.imgur.com/kuaF8KH.jpg

Anyway it's a good time to get a proper neck profile template made and I can start on the carve tomorrow and try this V profile on the new Tele neck.

The metric for the 57V is 22mm or tad under at 1st fret and 24.40mm at 12 fret. I usually shoot for a bit over to allow for final sanding and will go for 22.5mm and 25.00 just in case!

Cheers, John

(Just my 10cent on profiles btw)

Danielsguitars · February 2018

Bloody scrap limba, the cheek of it lol, it was carefully chosen and tapped on by angels and sounded good to me, after the pickup swapping that is

Love all the limba builds i've done and yours so far with plenty more to come

you'll be needing some bubinga for fretboards next, sounds great with limba imo, could all just be bollocks but good fun none the less

johnP_90 · February 2018

Thanks Darren, I could do with some more Limba as you mention it, if you fancy selling a bit for the Jnr build? Suspect its a lot lighter than braz ah hem n sounds better! Tapped on by angels lol....grin....

The neck is about ready for carving now and eventually got the back taper cut after mucking around with more jigs. The tuner holes can now be drilled thro' with 1/4" drill and reamed to 11/32" for the vintage 6 in-line tuner ferules. (The steel drilling jig was used only when the first pilot holes were drilled btw but a useful bit of kit.)
https://i.imgur.com/Tgh5WxF.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6Frmxsv.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/wuxbxeX.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/BsFVahf.jpg

The ferule hole can be drilled with an 11/32" drill bit but the reamer makes a cleaner cut., also easier to get to 8mm depth so there is still a 1/4" drilling in the headstock wood for the tuner shaft.
https://i.imgur.com/Uf9GqU9.jpg

I use this jig to hold the neck square and usually use an overhead router to cut the neck back profile depth but also works with a bit of care with the safety planer. (A 3mm drill bit is placed under the 1st fret on center line to jack it up for the taper from the 1st to the 14th fret. I need to loose 2.5mm under the 1st fret to bring it down to 23mm).
https://i.imgur.com/krAAixd.jpg

The heel transition is similar to a strat neck and marked up.
https://i.imgur.com/CD7x8vl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/OY4gx9i.jpg

After safety planing..
https://i.imgur.com/CmmNd4h.jpg

It is now .910" or 23mm at first, excuse the wood colored gloves in photo as it looks confusing.
https://i.imgur.com/bBtqtWh.jpg

And .984" or 25mm at the 12th fret
https://i.imgur.com/HGixHL4.jpg

When carved the transition should look like this on the p-90 tele, my pencil curves are in fact the wrong way round as ends up concave facets, doh!
https://i.imgur.com/OTnYbz2.jpg

Its now ready for carving.
https://i.imgur.com/Hbx2IZs.jpg

I will do this tomorrow now as just put new strings on the p-90 tele and forgot how good she played...

Cheers, John

Danielsguitars · February 2018

johnP_90 said:

Thanks Darren, I could do with some more Limba as you mention it, if you fancy selling a bit for the Jnr build? Suspect its a lot lighter than braz ah hem n sounds better! Tapped on by angels lol....grin....

Let me get the workshop sorted out and you can come over and sort some wood out, just bought a big old jointer/planer as need to cut limba blocks up first and plane square etc

Howdy, Stranger!

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One Piece Maple Tele Neck Build, (No CNC)

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