SteveF's Pedal Building Journey

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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 536
    Haven't had the second one yet - ordered that one on around the 24th or something I think?  I actually also have another one coming as they just had another code.... I may have a problem... :lol: 
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 536
    I now have the world's supply of bits and haven't had much chance to do anything yet.  But I have managed to knock up a couple of enclosure designs so that I can do a batch of enclosures at once. Here's a sneak peak :) 




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  • PhiltrePhiltre Frets: 4164
    Tayda Addict? Me too. =)

    Designs will be interesting to see when completed!
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 536
    Going to go with print and ET this time. Hopefully I won't screw it up! :lol:

    I might try the joker one again sometime if I can work out how to etch the black and then paint on the colour.  Not quite worked out how to approach it yet though and I think I would have a go at some simpler etches first. 
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 536
    Have any of you built a wah yet?  If so, what enclosure did you use?  I fancy having a go at taking all the similar crybaby schematics from tagboardeffects and rigging up a rotary switch on the side so that you can select between them.  e.g have a slash, Bonamassa, wylde, standard etc all in one pedal. 
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  • oafoaf Frets: 300
    @SteveF said:
    Going to go with print and ET this time. Hopefully I won't screw it up! :lol:

    I might try the joker one again sometime if I can work out how to etch the black and then paint on the colour.  Not quite worked out how to approach it yet though and I think I would have a go at some simpler etches first. 
    The way I etch is to spray the top of the enclosure with photoresist such as Positiv 20. I make sure that it is even and follow the application and drying instructions carefully. Try to keep the enclosure out of bright light! Get photoresist that self-levels. I dry the enclosure in a closed metal biscuit tin which then goes inside an oven.

    I print my design on acetate, making several copies. Layer up your copies so that they match perfectly (i.e. each layer is exactly on top of the other) and carefully tape them together so that they won't move about. Take some time over this step. Make sure that your layered image is very opaque. Some people print their image so that the ink is on the side of the acetate that touches the enclosure (i.e. flipped, so that you're looking through the acetate to see your design) but if you're layering your acetate anyway it might not be worth the trouble.

    Then lay your multilayer acetate on the top of the (coated) enclosure. Make sure that it is flat. You may find it helpful to put a piece of glass over the acetate (flat Pyrex bowl will do in a pinch). Use a UV light to expose your image (lots of options for lights that produce UV). Time your exposure, note it down for next time.

    Develop the photoresist and gently wipe away the bits that have been dissolved. Rinse well and take care not to overdevelop. The photoresist isn't very tough so handle it gently.

    You may be surprised how little exposure time you need (although that'll depend on how bright/UVish/close your light source is).

    You might have to fill in any gaps where photoresist has been removed that shouldn't have been. You can sometimes get away with using permanent marker for this, or nail varnish, paint, plastic electrical tape, however there are etch resistant pens that you can buy too. Go to some trouble to quality check your photoresist (and start again if it's no good - e.g. over or underexposed or blurry; it should be really sharp).

    Before I etch I carefully tape up the sides of the enclosure and any large areas on the top that I want to protect. The enclosure will float in the etching solution but you don't (I assume) want the sides to be etched/damaged. I also put a loop of tape on the inside of the enclosure so I can wiggle it about a bit while it is etching. Alternatively some people keep the enclosure face up and then dribble/pipette small quantities of the solution on the top of the enclosure.

    Don't overetch. Keep an eye on how your etch is progressing and clear any bubbles, etched material, etc regularly. Make sure that all of the area that you want to etch is being etched. Don't overetch!

    I don't think that you really need to etch all that deeply to get a good result. In fact I have a sense that the deeper you go the more likely you are to lose definition and end up with a less sharp image. Experiment but you will probably find that a slightly shallow (but very sharp) etch looks better than a really deep but blurry one.

    Carefully wash your enclosure, remove all the tape and then remove the photoresist (use a little alcohol). You can fill the etch with permanent black marker to accentuate it or spray it with paint then sand it back (so that only the etch contains your paint, contrasting metallic paint looks quite nice) or add a waterslide, apply different colours of paint with a brush, etc...

    Note that your enclosure can get hot when etching. The etching solution (I assume you'll use Ferric Chloride) is pretty nasty stuff and can easily damage you, your clothes, work surfaces, your house, pets... you get the picture. So treat it with respect and don't rush anything, spill it, etc.

    Prep your enclosure well. Sand it so that it is really smooth, clean and flat before you apply the photoresist. Spray the resist on enclosures in batches and then you can dry/keep them in a box out of the light, ready for the etching stage.

    Oh and don't drill the enclosure before you etch (obvious, I know, but...!) You may find it helpful to include some drill centre spots in your etch though. You might get away with using a single acetate but it's probably safer to double/triple your layers to be more certain of stopping the UV getting through.

    Hope this helps :) be sure to share your results!

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  • oafoaf Frets: 300
    SteveF said:
    Have any of you built a wah yet?  If so, what enclosure did you use?  I fancy having a go at taking all the similar crybaby schematics from tagboardeffects and rigging up a rotary switch on the side so that you can select between them.  e.g have a slash, Bonamassa, wylde, standard etc all in one pedal. 
    My wah and tuner pedals are the only ones that I haven't made myself... I got an RMC, very pleased with it and Geoffrey Teese has been very helpful when I've written to him with questions.



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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 536
    oaf said:
    @SteveF said:
    Going to go with print and ET this time. Hopefully I won't screw it up! :lol:

    I might try the joker one again sometime if I can work out how to etch the black and then paint on the colour.  Not quite worked out how to approach it yet though and I think I would have a go at some simpler etches first. 
    The way I etch is.. <snip>.

    Hope this helps :) be sure to share your results!

    Wow, thanks! :) Will definitely have a go at some stage.  I might try the laser printer option first purely because I already have an old iron and access to a laser printer but will defo have a go of your method too.  Got some pics of your results? 
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  • oafoaf Frets: 300
    Here's a not very good picture of one I did

    image
    There's a little... "pinning"(?) where you can see the acid got through where it shouldn't have (the etch is very deep) but it isn't bad. The metallic paint looks a bit flaky but is OK in the flesh.
    Good luck with the iron on method. I tried it using a good laser printer, genuine toner, decent iron... and got absolutely nowhere! Others get good results though so it'll be interesting to see how you get on.
    I'll see if I can snap some other pedals when I have a moment.
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 536
    Ah I did see that pic before, I thought it was one of Phil's :lol:  Looks great.  I actually like the effect of the paint :) 
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  • Adam_MDAdam_MD Frets: 3420
    SteveF said:
    Have any of you built a wah yet?  If so, what enclosure did you use?  I fancy having a go at taking all the similar crybaby schematics from tagboardeffects and rigging up a rotary switch on the side so that you can select between them.  e.g have a slash, Bonamassa, wylde, standard etc all in one pedal. 
    Yes I bought a broken vox wah for £25 and reused the enclosure and a few of the other parts.  
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  • PhiltrePhiltre Frets: 4164
    @SteveF Did you get your 2nd order from Tayda yet (from around 23rd April)? I'm still waiting for mine.
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 536
    Philtre said:
    @SteveF Did you get your 2nd order from Tayda yet (from around 23rd April)? I'm still waiting for mine.
    Nope, not yet.  I got my 3rd order though :lol:  I did use DHL on that one though so it was quicker.  
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  • PhiltrePhiltre Frets: 4164
    Did you have to pay duty on the DHL one?

    BTW - how's the Envirotex? =)
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 536
    Yes, the duty charge was levied by DHL literally the day after I ordered it.  I suspect it's done as standard by them.  Now I have everything in bulk, I will just do orders as and when that will probably be fine in the post without charges.  If I order a load of enclosures in bulk and expect it to be too big, I'll probably just go for DHL as if I'm paying anyway, I'd rather have it within a week. 

    The ET is looking good.  Does it go properly hard?  If I dig my thumbnail into the ET (where the drill holes are, obvs) it still makes a slight mark.  I am unlikely to have a chance to do anything til tomorrow night at the earliest, but more likely the weekend so it has time to cure for a bit longer yet. 
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  • Adam_MDAdam_MD Frets: 3420
    SteveF said:
    Yes, the duty charge was levied by DHL literally the day after I ordered it.  I suspect it's done as standard by them.  Now I have everything in bulk, I will just do orders as and when that will probably be fine in the post without charges.  If I order a load of enclosures in bulk and expect it to be too big, I'll probably just go for DHL as if I'm paying anyway, I'd rather have it within a week. 

    The ET is looking good.  Does it go properly hard?  If I dig my thumbnail into the ET (where the drill holes are, obvs) it still makes a slight mark.  I am unlikely to have a chance to do anything til tomorrow night at the earliest, but more likely the weekend so it has time to cure for a bit longer yet. 
    Give it at least 4 days preferably a week for it to cure properly.  
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  • PhiltrePhiltre Frets: 4164
    I think the ET continues to harden well after 4 days. Some of the ones I poured from weeks ago are very hard. :o
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  • SteveFSteveF Frets: 536
    Ah good stuff, but yeah, they look great.  A slight bit of a wonky edge on the black one, which was the one I overpoured and had issues with.  You can also see where the shininess of the powder coat has rubbed off with the meths.  The silver one looks ace though.  I think the metallic paint disguises the transition of the ET, so it looks really professional. 




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  • PhiltrePhiltre Frets: 4164
    My Tayda order just arrived. So this one took 16 days. =)
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  • Adam_MDAdam_MD Frets: 3420
    I had a tayda order arrive this morning as well but judging by the border force tape customs have opened it.  I wasn’t charged for any vat or import charges but they haven’t sealed it properly and some of the order is missing.

    I’m positive it’s not a mistake by tayda because in 3 years I’ve never once been missing an item in a delivery from them.

    Thanks border force good job  :p
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