Ivison Guitars '59 DC Model - Build Thread

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  • DanielsguitarsDanielsguitars Frets: 3260
    tFB Trader
    one of the reasons i use hide glue for a fretboard and neck is i can get it apart easily, i started with titebond and still use it for certain things, I've had good results building with with both inc acoustics

    Can't really say if one sounds better though
    www.danielsguitars.co.uk
    (formerly customkits)
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  • IvisonGuitarsIvisonGuitars Frets: 6838
    edited June 2018 tFB Trader
    WezV said:
    I thing you could sell that idea to stew-mac.  Looks like a great solution.

    as above, I often use a trapeze to hold the strings.  But I really like the addition of the bolts for marking position
    Cheers @WezV! Wouldn't that be sods law, the 10 minute make bridge placement contraption earns me more money than the guitars!

    @Jez6345789 No I use Titebond Original. Perhaps strangely, for someone so obviously anal about all things vintage, I don't buy into all the 'the tone is in the glue' BS to be honest, I think there are far greater contributing factors to the guitars tone than that 
    http://www.ivisonguitars.com
    (formerly miserneil)
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16541
    Its like a lot of stew-mac jigs in that it’s only useful for one job and could be made fairly easy... but many would still buy rather than make

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  • SteveRobinsonSteveRobinson Frets: 6913
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    There is a lot of satisfaction in making ones own tools but I estimate how long they would take to make, calculate what I could earn in that time doing setups and refrets, and order from Stewmac! 
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  • DanielsguitarsDanielsguitars Frets: 3260
    tFB Trader
    There is a lot of satisfaction in making ones own tools but I estimate how long they would take to make, calculate what I could earn in that time doing setups and refrets, and order from Stewmac! 
    I'm the same but we have an engineer friend who makes our stuff and i had another friend make my radius jig in exchange for wood and stuff, win win i say
    www.danielsguitars.co.uk
    (formerly customkits)
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  • Jez6345789Jez6345789 Frets: 1756
    Neil 
    i am with you on the glue front and I think it’s mostly come about due to the Les Paul forum a few year back banging on about all the things wrong in reissues and glue was an easy corporate win and box tick and everybody changed from titbond although when I watch videos it always seems to be some polymerised hide glue don’t see a lot of hot glue pots.

    tonally I see it in my mind as an idea but hear it I am doubtful 
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  • DanielsguitarsDanielsguitars Frets: 3260
    edited June 2018 tFB Trader
    Neil 
    i am with you on the glue front and I think it’s mostly come about due to the Les Paul forum a few year back banging on about all the things wrong in reissues and glue was an easy corporate win and box tick and everybody changed from titbond although when I watch videos it always seems to be some polymerised hide glue don’t see a lot of hot glue pots.

    tonally I see it in my mind as an idea but hear it I am doubtful 
    as I've used both I'll state exactly why i use hide glue, I'm not interested in snake oil or bs either, my acoustics both sound good with titebond original 

    I put together a les paul and while it was good i thought it could sound better so i took off the fretboard and took the neck back out, i changed the neck angle slightly and put different frets in, i put it all back together and it just came alive for me, this is what's good about it, i can change things easily and experiment

    Until you've used both you can't say it's all rubbish, same goes with all guitar making, you have to try it rather than read about it imo
    www.danielsguitars.co.uk
    (formerly customkits)
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16541
    Both titebond original and hot hide glue dry very brittle and work very well. Anything that dries rubbery should be avoided.

    what I don’t like is when people go on about the benefits of Hide glue, then it turns out they are using the pre-prepared stuff that is liquid at room temperature and has a long shelf life.  Lots of additives which take away the real benefits of hot hide glue
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  • DanielsguitarsDanielsguitars Frets: 3260
    tFB Trader
    WezV said:
    Both titebond original and hot hide glue dry very brittle and work very well. Anything that dries rubbery should be avoided.

    what I don’t like is when people go on about the benefits of Hide glue, then it turns out they are using the pre-prepared stuff that is liquid at room temperature and has a long shelf life.  Lots of additives which take away the real benefits of hot hide glue
    i use the hot hide granules that you soak in water and i like the fact i can make small quantities enough for what I'm doing and it stays fresh until used, i have got a glue pot but it takes ages to heat up so i use a camping stove on very low heat to bring up to temperature, i can also thin it down if i want, it's something you have to get used to using

    I don't use clamps on my fretboard but a thick rubber band that i wind round, it's quick and does the job really nicely especially with a radiused board

    I'll start a build thread soon to show how i do some of my building, a pic is easier to understand 
    www.danielsguitars.co.uk
    (formerly customkits)
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  • SteveRobinsonSteveRobinson Frets: 6913
    tFB Trader
    If you just need a small amount you can heat hide glue in a microwave.
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  • DanielsguitarsDanielsguitars Frets: 3260
    tFB Trader
    If you just need a small amount you can heat hide glue in a microwave.
    Thanks Steve, that's interesting but i haven't even got a kettle in the shop yet and I've already run out of space, gotta find room soon though or nothings getting made
    www.danielsguitars.co.uk
    (formerly customkits)
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  • WezVWezV Frets: 16541
    As a kid I remember my grandad had a bean tin for the glue, placed directly on a log burning stove for a minute or two 
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  • SteveRobinsonSteveRobinson Frets: 6913
    tFB Trader
    miserneil said:

    ...and position it under the strings and measure the scale length. With this jig I can adjust the bridge until I get the intonation spot on and I can also make sure the strings are positioned perfectly over the P90 like so:


    Once i've checked, double checked and triple checked the intonation and position, I screw the bolts down (which I have ground to a point)...
    I think you need to line up the bridge to that the strings pass over the centres of the rear holes in the bridge, where they will emerge when the guitar is strung. You seem to have them centred over the front holes? (I.e shift the bridge to the bass side a touch.)
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  • GSPBASSESGSPBASSES Frets: 2335
    tFB Trader
    miserneil said:

    ...and position it under the strings and measure the scale length. With this jig I can adjust the bridge until I get the intonation spot on and I can also make sure the strings are positioned perfectly over the P90 like so:


    Once i've checked, double checked and triple checked the intonation and position, I screw the bolts down (which I have ground to a point)...
    I think you need to line up the bridge to that the strings pass over the centres of the rear holes in the bridge, where they will emerge when the guitar is strung. You seem to have them centred over the front holes? (I.e shift the bridge to the bass side a touch.)
    I agree, if you line up the strings as shown in the photo on a wrap over bridge when you string the guitar up the strings will be over to the treble side by a few millimetres. It is best with your way of doing this to line everything with the holes in the back of the wrap over bridge as  @SteveRobinson said.

    Your life will improve when you realise it’s better to be alone than chase people who do not really care about you. Saying YES to happiness means learning to say NO to things and people that stress you out.

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  • IvisonGuitarsIvisonGuitars Frets: 6838
    edited June 2018 tFB Trader
    @SteveRobinson @GSPBASSES Thanks for the advice chaps, totally agree and I do just that, this photo was taken part way through the process, there was still plenty of fine tuning to be done 
    http://www.ivisonguitars.com
    (formerly miserneil)
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  • Jez6345789Jez6345789 Frets: 1756
    Loving this thread
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  • meltedbuzzboxmeltedbuzzbox Frets: 10337
    Loving this thread
    +1

    I check daily for picture updates
    The Bigsby was the first successful design of what is now called a whammy bar or tremolo arm, although vibrato is the technically correct term for the musical effect it produces. In standard usage, tremolo is a rapid fluctuation of the volume of a note, while vibrato is a fluctuation in pitch. The origin of this nonstandard usage of the term by electric guitarists is attributed to Leo Fender, who also used the term “vibrato” to refer to what is really a tremolo effect.
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  • paulnb57paulnb57 Frets: 3044
    +2 Me too!
    Stranger from another planet welcome to our hole - Just strap on your guitar and we'll play some rock 'n' roll

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  • IvisonGuitarsIvisonGuitars Frets: 6838
    edited July 2018 tFB Trader
    @meltedbuzzbox @paulnb57 Thanks for the support chaps! More Thursday eve
    http://www.ivisonguitars.com
    (formerly miserneil)
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  • Jez6345789Jez6345789 Frets: 1756
    Thursday evening.  arrrrrgh
    two more sleeps then lol
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