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...which was then transferred onto MDF.
I seem to recall that @Andyjr1515 is your man for veneers.
Hi, @AustrianJohn
It's looking good
I didn't pitch in because I guessed that. Your spalted beech looks like it's 3-4mm thick? An offcut would be perfect as a headstock plate. I like the previous one you did in the photo above - what wood was that?
The wood in my last project was burl, but I don't know from which type of tree. The spalted beech is 11mm thick. I'll aim to get that down to about 3mm for the headstock. For the body I'll leave it at 11mm.
Cheers, John
Having spent what seemed like hours generating sawdust, creating the body was quick - cutting the rough shape with a bandsaw and then using the MDF template and router to tidy up the edges.
Body has been routed. I had planned to do the neck pocket rout after the top had been attached, but I'm worried that the relative softness of the beech top would make it difficult to attach the template. Now I can use a bottom bearing router bit to rout the top.
Edge of rear cavity has been routed for the cover.
I'll try to make the cavity cover from this glued offcut from the top, or I may use this piece for the headstock - we'll see.
I cut some thin slices from the spalted beech off-cut and managed to make both the cavity cover and headstock veneer.
Top is being glued to the body.
The cavity cover is a good fit. But the headstock veneer didn't work as planned, I'll have to use a thicker piece - but that's for another day.
That's lovely. I like how the darker parts of the grain flow from the nut end of the headstock, draws your eyes along it.
I washed the back with a black stain then sanded it off. This makes the grain stand out nicely.
I'll use a chicken head control knob (or something equally unusual) to make a feature out of the repaired hole.