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12 stringers

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  • DannyPDannyP Frets: 1760
    Loads of early Bowie - Queen Bitch, Starman etc etc.

    The percussive strummi9ng and top end twinkle sat really nicely in the mix with Ronson's mid-honk, cocked wah LP into a marshall thing
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  • earwighoneyearwighoney Frets: 3592
    edited December 2017
    ICBM said:

    It's absolutely no different to having two six-string guitars which need to be restrung and kept in tune. If you have more than one six-string guitar - which I'd guess most people here do - why the fuss?

    Because it's twice as much work as restringing and tuning a 6 string guitar, and tuning/restringing one 6 string guitar is generally more than enough work for a player. 

    I'll have to politely disagree with you though @ICBM, there are some features of a 12 string that make it tricky to tune - being the octave string for the G being very thin e.g. 0.008 which can be very prone to breaking/tricky to tune, especially over a scale of 650mm be it tuned to concert pitch or a semitone or 2 below.  The octave string for the A string unless it's a wound string can be lacking tension, especially for open tunings and with a wound string it can be pretty hard work for the fingers.

    Tuning the octave/unison strings are a different issue to tuning the regular strings.
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  • ellwoodellwood Frets: 1116
    I played a gorgeous Maton 12 string last week and am now GASsing for a nice 12 string electro. I'm not fussed about the extra hassle, the sound more than makes up for a few more minutes tuning....
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  • ellwood said:
    I'm not fussed about the extra hassle, the sound more than makes up for a few more minutes tuning....
    Agree, entirely!  

    Yes, a 12 string can be a PITA to tune, restring and it can be tough on the fingers/picking hand (for fingerpickers especially) but IMO it's worth all the additional gripes for the sound.  
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  • ICBMICBM Frets: 74391
    earwighoney said:

    Because it's twice as much work as restringing and tuning a 6 string guitar, and tuning/restringing one 6 string guitar is generally more than enough work for a player.
    Yes, but you have to do it less than half as often usually ;). I don't know many players who use a 12-string as much as a 6.

    earwighoney said:

    I'll have to politely disagree with you though @ICBM, there are some features of a 12 string that make it tricky to tune - being the octave string for the G being very thin e.g. 0.008 which can be very prone to breaking/tricky to tune, especially over a scale of 650mm be it tuned to concert pitch or a semitone or 2 below.  The octave string for the A string unless it's a wound string can be lacking tension, especially for open tunings and with a wound string it can be pretty hard work for the fingers.
    Well, it is true that the sets I use have at least a 9 for the octave G (can't remember, might even be a 10) and a wound octave A, because they're 11s. If you're using strings light enough for that not to be true (usually 10s) you need to tune to E since that's what those gauges are for.

    Tuning the octave/unison strings are a different issue to tuning the regular strings.
    Er... you turn the machinehead key and adjust the pitch of the string :).

    "Take these three items, some WD-40, a vise grip, and a roll of duct tape. Any man worth his salt can fix almost any problem with this stuff alone." - Walt Kowalski

    "Only two things are infinite - the universe, and human stupidity. And I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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  • ICBM said: 
    earwighoney said:

    I'll have to politely disagree with you though @ICBM, there are some features of a 12 string that make it tricky to tune - being the octave string for the G being very thin e.g. 0.008 which can be very prone to breaking/tricky to tune, especially over a scale of 650mm be it tuned to concert pitch or a semitone or 2 below.  The octave string for the A string unless it's a wound string can be lacking tension, especially for open tunings and with a wound string it can be pretty hard work for the fingers.
    Well, it is true that the sets I use have at least a 9 for the octave G (can't remember, might even be a 10) and a wound octave A, because they're 11s. If you're using strings light enough for that not to be true (usually 10s) you need to tune to E since that's what those gauges are for.

    Tuning the octave/unison strings are a different issue to tuning the regular strings.
    Er... you turn the machinehead key and adjust the pitch of the string :).
    The Newtone 11-50 string sets to be the best balanced strings and one of the few sets to have a wound octave A string, without resorting to a heavy string set.  Preferring 80/20 strings, more often than I find myself using 10-47 sets. 

    What I meant to say was I've found tuning the octave strings to be slightly more difficult to tune mainly for the plain strings which seem to lack the tension of the standard wound counterparts - the octave A & D's with plain strings in the 10-47 sets seem to lack tension whilst the octave G with a 0.008 tuning upto standard pitch is something which isn't something I approach with a great amount of enthusiasm. 

    I consider these aspects some of the instruments more 'esoteric' niggles are something which does make the 12 string guitar what it is and it's an instrument I love greatly and it's an instrument that I believe it shouldn't be feared but more so respected!  A 12 string acoustic guitar played well is a truly wonderful thing.
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  • AliGorieAliGorie Frets: 308
    edited December 2017
    oh no - I got a guitar - and I've gotta restring it once in a while - how will I cope ?.
    ok the tuning post is designed to help 'lock' the string (on it's self) i.e. it's concave shape around the string hole, like a ships capstan.
    With thinner strings I like about 6 wingdings around the post below the string hole - as you tighten the string the concave shape makes the winds 'ride' upward chocking the string going through the hole and to an extent 'locking' it'.
    Wrapping the string this many times spreads the tension over a bigger area taking the 'load' from the troublesome - weakening kink that is created by the string exiting the hole ( on the tension side).
    try it.

       PS. some tuner post holes can be left rough at the exit points - check and needle file smooth if ness.  
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